Wireless Not Working After Update / Code 10 Error

4.3 

Wireless Not Working After Update / Code 10 Error

Some users have contacted us regarding their Killer Networking adapters not working after a Windows Update. This has affected various adapters, including the 1525, 1535, and 1550. Although we are as yet unsure exactly which update is causing this issue, there seems to be a connection with specific machine manufacturers having pushed an outdated version of the Killer Control Center through Windows Update, along with extremely outdated wireless drivers, which leads to a corrupted device driver.

The following troubleshooting steps should allow you to resolve the issue. 

  1. If your machine has Internet access through Ethernet, or if you are able to move files onto the machine using a USB thumb drive or some other medium, clean installing to the most recent version of the Killer Control Center and device drivers is the best way to resolve this issue. Click here for the guide on clean installing the latest Killer Control Center and device drivers. 
  2. (Code 10) If the clean install does not solve the issue, try manually installing the latest device drivers for your Killer Wireless device. This will hopefully replace the corrupted device driver. Click here for the guide to manually install drivers in Device Manager.
  3. If manually installing the driver does not resolve the issue, or if the network adapter is not present in Device Manager, try clean installing the drivers in Device Manager. This is different than clean installing the Killer Control Center or simply manually installing the drivers in Device Manager. This will hopefully remove the corrupted driver from the Windows Driver Store, allowing you to update to a working driver. Click here for our guide on clean installing drivers in Device Manager.
  4. If none of the above resolves the issue, then the issue may be due to something that is not strictly related to your wireless adapter or drivers, but is causing the adapter to malfunction. Check the support downloads page for your machine or motherboard manufacturer and make sure that you have the latest BIOS available, as well as the latest chipset drivers available. 
  5. If none of the above resolves your issue, you may need to uninstall whatever update caused the issue. Click here for our guide on uninstalling Windows Updates. Please note that this guide only refers to Microsoft Windows Updates specifically. It's possible that the update that caused the issue was not an update to Microsoft Windows, but an update to something else on your system. Keep that in mind if you find yourself manually uninstalling recent updates, which is otherwise covered in the linked guide. 
  6. If you have followed every step in this guide and still have not been able to establish wireless connectivity, try discharging your machine to reset the CMOS. Click here for our guide on discharging your machine. 
  7. If none of the above resolved the issue, then you may need to resort to resetting Windows. This may result in lost files and applications, so restoring a backup is preferable, if you have one available. Click here for Microsoft's information on resetting Windows and click "Reset your PC." Please be sure to read exactly what the reset will entail. Alternatively, you may find that other options on that page may better fit your needs. If you do go this route, make sure you install the latest Killer Control Center and drivers as soon as Windows updates to 1803 or later, before other updates can take place. This is best done using our clean install guide (click here). To find out which version of Windows is currently installed, click Start, type winver, and press Enter. Refer to the "Version" number. When resetting  your PC or reinstalling Windows, this number may change as Windows updates. As soon as the build is 1803 or newer, install the latest Killer Control Center and drivers using the clean install guide. 
  8. Unfortunately, if none of the above resolves your issue, your next step will be to contact your machine or motherboard manufacturer for RMA or repair options. When a wireless network adapter's driver is updated, the firmware on the chip is flashed. If none of the above solved the problem, then this indicates that the adapter is no longer capable of accepting a flash, and will need to be replaced. Alternatively, the machine or motherboard manufacturer may have an unpublished BIOS update or chipset driver that can resolve the issue. 

Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects

1.0 

Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects

Please note that this article is not meant to be followed step-by-step to completion. Instead, it's a list of suggestions that are known to be fixes for wireless drops and disconnects, with the most effective suggestions at the top. Once you find something that works, there is no need to read or implement the rest of this guide. 

Drops and disconnects are, unfortunately, still a part of using Wi-Fi Internet. They're frustrating, and they seem to happen at the worst, most annoying times, but with all of the different technology that has to come together to work correctly, it's surprising that Wi-Fi is generally very reliable! 

We want your Killer Wireless adapter to be the most reliable part of your Wi-Fi connection, so we have put together the steps that you can take, when you are encountering Wi-Fi drops, that are most likely to resolve the issue. Some of them are specific to our adapter, while some are more general. This is because, in our experience, most Wi-Fi disconnects are due more to the wireless environment than any specific wireless adapter. Here are the steps that our experience has shown are most likely to solve Wi-Fi disconnect issues:

  1. Update your Wi-Fi adapter's drivers to the latest available from our website. Click here for instructions on how to clean install the latest Killer Control Center that is appropriate for your Windows build. 
  2. Update your motherboard or machine's BIOS. This is especially true if you are using a laptop, as laptop manufacturer's are constantly releasing BIOS updates to address Wi-Fi issues. You can usually easily find the support downloads section for your specific machine or motherboard by using Google to search your machine's model number, followed by "downloads." Make sure you read the instructions before you flash the BIOS!
  3. Update your motherboard or machine's chipset drivers. These control resources within Windows. You can also find these on your support download page. If the manufacturer has not updated in a long time, you can also go straight to the chipset manufacturer (Intel or AMD) and get newer, but more generic chipset drivers. Your results may vary, with those.
  4. Reset your entire network and network stack using this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/93-resetting-network-devices-and-network-stack. Even if you have done some of these things at various points, it's worth it to do all of them, in that order, to make sure everything is reset correctly.
  5. If you are using any antivirus or firewall application, temporarily uninstall it, then restart your machine. Unfortunately, disabling these applications does not prevent them from manipulating network packets - they have to be temporarily uninstalled. If this resolves the issue, you may be able to simply reinstall the application using a freshly downloaded copy, and the disconnects may not return. If they do return, refer to the support team for that application. 
  6. Change your Wi-Fi adapter's power settings. You can find the step-by-step instructions for that here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/59-wi-fi-power-settings
  7. Check your Wi-Fi signal strength. You can see this in the Killer Control Center in the Wi-Fi Analyzer menu after clicking your Wi-Fi network (make sure to switch to 5 GHz if you are using a 5 GHz network, or 2.4 GHz if you are using a 2.4 GHz network). You will see "Signal Strength" appear at the bottom of the Killer Control Center. Anything below 80% and you are very likely to see drops and disconnects, especially when transferring large files or while gaming. If the signal strength is below 80% when  you are in the same room as the access point, with clear line of sight between the laptop and the access point, then there is very likely something wrong with the machine's antennas. If you can't get 100% signal strength when within 5 feet of the wireless access point, then the issue is definitely an antenna issue. In this case, you will need to contact the machine manufacturer for repair or RMA options, unless you feel comfortable opening the machine and checking the antenna leads yourself. 
  8. Experiment with changing your Wi-Fi adapter's Device Manager settings. Try changing one setting at a time, then testing, to see if the change helped. To get to these, right-click Start, click Device Manager, double-click Network Adapters, double-click your wireless adapter, click the Advanced tab. Then, click the following settings in the "Property" box, and change their values in the "Value" box:
    1. Dynamic MIMO Power Save: Experiment with disabling 
    2. Preferred Band: If you know for certain that either 5 GHz (often Wireless-AC) or 2.4 GHz (often-Wireless-N) wireless signals should work better in your situation, you can try setting a preference here.
    3. Roaming Aggressiveness: This determines how quickly your wireless adapter will switch access points when there are multiple saved access points in range. If the aggressiveness is set too low, it is more likely to hang on to an access point with low signal strength, even if there is a better option available. If it is set too high, you will experience Wi-Fi drops if multiple nearby access points have similar signal strengths, as the adapter will switch between them often, disrupting the data flow. If you have multiple saved access points in range, this setting deserves tweaking and testing. 
    4. Wireless Mode: This dictates which types of wireless connections to which your adapter is allowed to connect. Generally speaking, this should be left to its highest available setting, such as 12 - 11 a/b/g/n/ac, which means the adapter will connect to Wireless-A, B, G, N, or Wireless-AC access points. However, some users have reported that, especially with older Wireless-N access points, restricting Wireless-AC adapters to 09 - 11 a/g/n has improved Wi-Fi reliability for them. If you are unlikely to encounter Wireless-AC access points and speeds, this is certainly worth exploring.  The only types of wireless connection that are currently in widespread use are Wireless-N, AC, and, to a much lesser degree, Wireless-G. 
  9. If you are only experiencing problems with one network, and the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer shows that you have a signal strength of over 80, then the access point probably needs a firmware update.
    1. If this is your own home network, and you are using a router which you have purchased and connected to the modem that is provided by your Internet Service Provider, updating firmware is usually easily done. Refer to your specific router manufacturer’s instructions on doing this. If the router sports automatic firmware updating, don't trust it. Check the version that is loaded on the device against the current version available on the device's website. Very often, you'll find that you are not running the latest version, and that you will need to manually update.
    2. If this is your home network, and you are connecting wirelessly to the modem that is provided by your ISP, then you will need to contact your ISP and have them update your firmware. This is usually a quick click of a button and a small wait for their support team, but they will sometimes say that their modems update automatically. Ask them to please verify, by firmware version number, that your modem is using the most up-to-date firmware version. 
  10. One other thing you can try is the Windows Network Reset. This will reistall your adapter, and will reset many things that are not easily accessible otherwise. This will also reset all saved Wi-Fi networks, including their passwords, and will remove all associations with any virtual adapters. To use this, simply click Start, type Network Reset, click Network Reset, and follow the prompts until completion. 
  11. You should also investigate your wireless landscape. Many Wi-Fi drops and connection issues are due to radio interference. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer to determine which channels are least used on each band (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) and change your Wi-Fi router's settings accordingly. Here are some tips on which settings to choose:

    1. On the 2.4 GHz band, always choose Channels 1, 11, or 6. Try to pick the emptiest of the three, using the Wi-Fi Analyzer as your guide. Channels other than 1, 11, or 6 will receive more interference. European users can also use Channels 12 and 13 on the 2.4 GHz band. If you are in Europe, and your Killer Wireless device cannot see networks on Channels 12 and 13, please see this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/61-wi-fi-channels-12-and-13
    2. On the 5 GHz band, choose a channel that is as far away from other channels as possible. If you are experiencing Wi-Fi drops and you are using a DFS channel, (Channels 50-144 in the USA, other areas can be found on this chart), try changing to another 5 GHz channel and see if that improves the issue. 
    3. If you do have to share a channel, or if there are competing networks close to yours, set your sideband or side channel (the name of the setting will depend on your router manufacturer) to 20 MHz. This creates a tight, more powerful signal. Higher sidebands should only be considered if you have no Wi-Fi radio competition, but need the signal to get around solid objects. 
    4. If you have extenders, access points, or any other wireless routers, make sure they are operating on a different channel than your primary router. Even a single Wi-Fi router with multiple radios can conflict with itself if those radios are set to the same channel. 
    5. Do not depend on "auto" settings if you are experiencing problems. They are not always reliable, and will often switch to less desirable configurations.
    6. Consider that Wi-Fi is a line-of-sight radio technology. Each solid between the antenna of your wireless access point (router/modem) and your computer will diminish the signal. Repositioning things by inches can make a world of difference. 
    7. Try changing your channel width (some routers may call it sideband or side channel). This is another area where many routers are, by default, set to "auto", but don't do a very good job. The higher the channel width, the more data the stream can carry, making it potentially faster, and the more likely it is to get around solid objects. However, the signal will have overall less strength, and will be more prone to interference from other nearby channels. Depending your Wi-Fi landscape, it may be best to give up some channel width in order to get the extra strength and dodge interference, even if your router and adapter can handle higher channel widths.
      1. On the 5 GHz band, set the channel width to 40 MHz and see if that improves reliability. 
      2. On the 2.4 GHz band, set the channel width to 20 MHz and see if that improves reliability. 

If none of these solve the issue for you, please feel free to reach out to support by clicking Contact Support under Support at the top of the website.  

TP-Link TL-WR841N Restarts When Killer 1435/1535 Connects

 

TP-Link TL-WR841N Restarts When Killer 1435/1535 Connects

Some users have experienced issues with the TP-Link TL-WR841N router restarting when the Killer Wireless-AC 1435 or 1535 connects to it. This is due to a bug in the router's firmware. If the latest available firmware from https://www.tp-link.com does not resolve the issue, multiple users have confirmed with us that they have been able to contact TP-Link support, who will provide them with a version of the firmware that resolves this issue. 

Installing the Killer 1550 with an M.2 to PCI-E Converter

 

Installing the Killer 1550 with an M.2 to PCI-E Converter

The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 can be used in some M.2 to PCI-E converters, allowing desktop machines with open PCI-E slots to use the adapter, provided the following conditions are met.

  • The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 can only be used in PCI-E 1x or PCI-E 4x slots. It cannot be used in the longer PCI-E 8x or PCI-E 16x slots. Using an incorrect PCI-E slot can cause the 1550 to either not appear in Device Manager, or to appear in Device Manager with an error, or a bang symbol.
    pcie
  • In our testing, we have noted that converters often do not produce working results when the converter is plugged into a northbridge slot. We advise that you use your converter in a southbridge slot. Although you will need to reference the technical specifications for your motherboard to know exactly which slot corresponds with which bridge, southbridge slots are generally those beneath the dedicate graphics slot on a desktop motherboard when the motherboard is installed in a tower case. 
  • For Bluetooth, a USB cable must be run between a USB 2.0 header on the motherboard and the USB header on the converter. If this is not connected, Bluetooth will not appear in Device Manager at all, and will not be usable. 
  • We cannot recommend any specific PCI-E converters. These are usually available from various vendors on Amazon, and most of them seem to work well, but they are typically unbranded, so buy at your own risk.
  • Please note that the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is only compatible with Windows 10.

Internet Problems With New Computers With Killer 1550

4.3 

Internet Problems With New Computers With Killer 1550

Some users may encounter issues with new computers with the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 installed. These issues can usually be resolved by clean-installing to the latest Killer Control Center. You can find the guide for this here - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/105-clean-install-the-killer-control-center.

If you are unable to download the software in the guide, click Settings in the Killer Control Center, and toggle Advanced Stream Detect to Off. This will temporarily disable all latency reducing and bandwidth prioritizing features from your Killer networking adapter, but should allow you to download the updated package. Once you have installed the updated Killer Control Center, Advanced Stream Detect will be activated by default. 

Wi-Fi Power Settings

 
Unfortunately, Wi-Fi drops and performance problems are all too common with Windows, and Microsoft has addressed the issue, essentially placing the blame on the wireless access points. You can read about that here - https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/928152/you-may-experience-connectivity-issues-or-performance-issues-when-you - but, to summarize, the default power plan is not ideal for Wi-Fi, and Microsoft's suggestion is to maximize power going to the Wi-Fi adapter and remove the ability for Windows to turn the adapter off to save power.
 
With some users, this has fixed all of their issues. With others, it has not helped at all. However, if you're experiencing issues like Wi-Fi drops, slowdowns, or latency, it's worth adjusting.
 
Doing this can potentially cause slightly shorter battery life. However, this is a good way to troubleshoot whether the issue is related to the power saving features of your machine and/or access point. You may find that making thes changes makes no noticeable change in your machine's battery life. On the other hand, you may find that there is a noticeable effect, in which case you can simply switch the power profile back. 
  1. To check your power settings: 
  2. Right click Start
  3. Click Power Options
  4. Click Additional Power Options on the right.
  5. Click Change Plan Options on the currently selected power plan
  6. Click Change Advanced Power Settings
  7. Click Wireless Adapter Settings
  8. Under "Power Saving Mode" change “Setting” to Maximum Performance on both “On battery” and “Plugged in"
  9. Click Okay then Save Changes.
  10. Close all Power Options windows
  11. Right-click your Start Button and click Device Manager
  12. Find the Network Adapters heading and double-click it.
  13. Find your Killer Wireless Adapter and double-click it.
  14. Click the Power Management tab.
  15. Make sure the box for Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power is not checked.
  16. Click OK
  17. If you are missing any of these options, then that means your machine's manufacturer has disabled them in the registry. Many of our users have had luck using the method described here. Please note that the registry changes made in these guides make no permanent changes to your system other than to make the settings available for you to change. The registry files do not actually make the changes - they only add back the setting options that are present in normal Windows 10 installs, but have been removed in some..

If changing your Wi-Fi power settings does not help, we suggest having a look at our Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects guide here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/107-wi-fi-drops-and-disconnects

Wi-Fi Adapter Disabling

5.0 

There are a few things that can cause your Wi-Fi adapter to disable itself, but, unfortunately they don't really make themselves known up front. Here are some steps you can try to correct the issue:

  • Clean install to the latest Killer Control Center and device drivers by following our clean-install guide here - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/105-clean-install-the-killer-control-center
  • Update your machine's BIOS, if an update is available, from your machine or mainboard manufacturer.
  • Update your machine's chipset driver from your machine or mainboard manufacturer.
  • Update your wireless access point's (whatever you connect to wirelessly, be it a Wi-Fi modem, router, or extender) firmware. If the access point is a Wi-Fi modem that is owned by your ISP, you'll have to contact them and have them update the firmware for you. Old firmware can cause this issue as the adapter will disable itself if it receives a large number of bad frames from the access point. 
  • Completely uninstall and reinstall your Killer suite and drivers, using this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/58-clean-install-any-driver - which will ensure that Windows is using only the latest driver files for the Wi-Fi adapter.
  • Change your Wi-Fi adapter's power settings using this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/59-wi-fi-power-settings
  • Use the built-in Network Reset for Windows 10. You can do this by clicking Start and typing Network Reset. You may have to reinstall any VPN adapters, and re-input any Wi-Fi or VPN passwords after using the Network Reset. You may also need to reinstall the network adapter drivers.

If you have done all of the above, but still find that your Wi-Fi adapter is disabling itself, please contact us directly so that we may assist you further!

Slow Network Speeds

2.1 

Slow Network Speeds

If you are experiencing slow Internet or network speeds, you can follow this troubleshooting guide to address and correct the most common problems. 

If you haven't already, please try installing the latest Killer Control Center from our website, and only from our website. It includes many fixes and improvements that are not be included in other packages. If you are still using the Killer Network Manager, you'll want to download the Killer Control Center, and then manually uninstall the Killer Network Manager, as well as the "Killer Drivers" entry in your programs list. You can find the latest Killer Control Center here: https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads.

Once you have successfully updated your drivers, you will want to restart your computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. It is important to note that closing the lid or pressing the power button on many modern computers does not shut them down, but instead activates sleep mode. You must restart them by clicking Start > Power > Restart for them to restart.

If updating the drivers does not solve the issue, try resetting your networking equipment in this specific order, even if you have reset your some or all of your equipment previously. This order is proven to help your devices sync up properly, and will help to get a clean slate with further troubleshooting. Doing this can help even if only one device is experiencing problems. 

  1. Shut down your computer.
  2. Locate your modem and note the lights on your modem when it is normal and ready. There may be a "Ready" light.
  3. Unplug your modem, router, and any switches or hubs, between your computer and the modem, as well as any wireless boosters or access points, and leave them all unplugged for now.
  4. Plug in your modem.
  5. Wait until your modem's lights show normal operation again.
  6. Plug in your router, if you have one, and give it about five minutes to boot.
  7. Plug in anything else between your computer and the modem
  8. Power on your computer.
  9. Once your computer is booted and connected to the Internet, you will want to reset its network stack:
    1. In the search box on the taskbar, type Command prompt, right-click Command prompt, and then select Run as administrator > Yes.
    2. At the command prompt, run the following commands in the listed order, and then check to see if that fixes your connection problem:
      • Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter.
      • Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter.
      • Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter.
  10. Now reboot your machine once more and test to see if the issue is resolved.

If not, the next step is to make sure that your Windows installation is completely up to date. Microsoft has been updating Windows more often than with any previous release, so it's important to keep things up to date. To do this, simply search Windows Updates, hit Enter, and then click Check for Updates. If your machine finds updates, check again once it finishes installing. Once your machine finds no updates, restart again, and then check for updates once more. Once your machine finds no updates upon a fresh reboot, your Windows installation should be fully up to date.

If you have performed the above, and you are still experiencing issues with slow network speeds, there are some other things to try:

  • Set a benchmark. Place the device in one place, if dealing with Wi-Fi, and run a test using one speed test. Turn off all other network usage while troubleshooting. Speedtest.net and Testmy.net are both good bandwidth tests. Run three tests in short succession and record an average as your starting point. Test after each change to see if there has been improvement. Record what you changed, and what the speeds the change produced. If the change seems dramatic, restart the machine and test again to be sure. 
  • Make sure your BIOS is up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure your chipset drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure all of the other drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page. You can safely download and install all available driver packages. If the driver does not apply, it will either not install, or will not be used. If the only options in a driver installer package are "Repair" or "Uninstall", choosing "Repair" will update the driver, if there is a newer driver available.
  • Update the firmware on your router if you own the router.
  • Update the firmware on your modem if you own the modem, but only if your ISP accepts the firmware. Your ISP's support team can help you with this. Some ISPs also have this information listed somewhere, but they may need to do something on their end if you update the firmware, in order to re-authorize your modem. 
  • Have your ISP update the firmware on your modem or router if they own your modem or router.
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, minimize the number of solid objects between the access point's antenna and the device suffering from low speeds, using line-of-sight. Moving a device or antenna even an inch to one side could bypass multiple solid objects, making an enormous difference. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to make changes to your router's settings. 
    • 5 GHz routers should be set to channels 36-48, and/or 149-165 that are as far away from other channels as possible.
    • 2.4 GHz routers should be set to channels 1, 6, or 11, depending on which channels have the least powerful conflicting radios present.
    • Sideband, or side channel should be set to 20 MHz if there are many other Wi-Fi access points in your area, especially if you are forced to share a channel. Higher side channels are less powerful, but provide a wider band, allowing the signal to get around solid objects better, theoretically improving performance in situations where there are no interference concerns, but the Wi-Fi signal needs to "get around" solid objects. Many, however, report that, in real life testing, 20 MHz still provides the better signal, so your mileage may vary. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi and your router has both a 5 GHz radio and a 2.4 GHz radio, name them something different. Although it might seem simpler to name them the same thing, many routers do not handle this very well, and you can see performance issues by having them named the same thing. Many people opt to simply add "5" to the end of the 5 GHz radio. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi extenders, name each of your extenders something different, so that you know which access point you are connected to. Wi-Fi extenders have limited radio capacity, and will, always provide at least slightly slower speeds than connecting directly to the router, as they have to use the same radio to receive and transmit, at the same time. 
  • If it seems like other machines using the same access point are having no issues, try to verify this. Borrow their machine and run a speed test. Ask for permission first, of course. If you are experiencing issues on a public access point, you might just find that the public access point is just terrible, and that no one else is having a problem because you're the only one playing latency-intensive first person shooters. 
  • If you are using a Wireless-N router in a crowded Wi-Fi environment, you are very likely to encounter drops and speed issues no matter what settings you change. Unfortunately, the 2.4 GHz spectrum is very limited on how many channels are available, and conflicts arise quickly. Updating to a Wireless-AC router may be required to increase your speeds and reduce wireless drops. 
  • If you are using an antivirus or firewall application, try completely uninstalling it for testing purposes. Unfortunately, simply disabling these programs do not work for troubleshooting purposes, as they often continue to manipulate network traffic. They must be fully uninstalled. If you notice that your speeds increase dramatically with the antivirus or firewall application uninstalled, try installing a freshly downloaded version from their website. If that doesn't help, then the issue may be one with the antivirus application itself. In that case, you will want to contact the support team for the antivirus application. 

If you are unable to get your speed issues sorted out using the above tips, feel free to contact us directly using the information below! 

 

Ad-Hoc and Hotspot Functionality with Killer Adapters in Windows 10

5.0 

Ad-Hoc and Hotspot Functionality with Killer Adapters in Windows 10

You may wish to create an Ad-Hoc or Hotspot network with your Killer Adapter on your Windows 10 machine.

With Windows 10, all Ad-Hoc and Hotspot functionality has been officially moved away from the drivers, and into the operating system itself.

If you would like to create a Hotspot or Ad-Hoc network with Windows 10, you simply need to click Start, type Hotspot, and press Enter. All of the relevant settings for your Hotspot network will be on that page.

Hotspot Settings
With Windows 10, this is the current official limit of Hotspot or Ad-Hoc functionality.

The Windows 10 version of our driver does not support the "Hosted Network" feature because Microsoft's own WDI driver does not have support for this. Microsoft is having all wireless vendors move to the WDI model, thus this feature will not work on Windows 10 drivers until after (and if) Microsoft expands support for SoftAP/Wi-Fi Direct.

In the meantime, if you need this feature back for certain older applications that made use of their own Hotspot or Ad-Hoc features, you can load the Windows 8.1 drivers via Device Manager from our INF download. We have verified that this works, and have had confirmation from other users as well.

http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-drivers-inf

For our guide on loading .INF drivers manually in Device Managers, see here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/10-installing-drivers-device-manager

However, we cannot guarantee that Windows Update will not automatically update these drivers, or that they will work flawlessly with Windows 10, as they are, after all, Windows 8.1 drivers. Use Windows 8.1 drivers in Windows 10 at your own risk.

Unfortunately, as the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 only has Windows 10 drivers, this workaround will not work for the 1550.

Linux Support

4.5 

Linux Support

Most Killer Networking adapters work well with most Linux kernels without the need for any troubleshooting or setup. As there are many Linux distributions, and many variations of those distributions, some users may run into issues with compatibility and their networking adapter.

These are the drivers used by our networking adapters:

With the exception Killer Wireless-AC 1550 series, the drivers for all of our devices are community developed and supported. We neither develop nor support the Linux drivers for our devices, and this is common, as free and open source is the Linux way.

As such, if you encounter an issue with your Killer Networking adapter in Linux, your best, quickest, and most accurate line of support is going to be the community, either for the Linux distribution that you are using, or the driver itself. Our knowledge base contains some limited known information. These are things which we have discovered and posted in order to hopefully make things easier on our users. However, most problems will be specific to either the driver, the distribution, or even the version of the distribution that you are using.

Following are some links to installation tips for specific Linux distributions, which were offered by our users. Please note that, unless you see this note beside the link - Confirmed By Killer Support - these are links to various places in the community where others have offered up solutions to problems, which have been confirmed by other users. 

Linux Mint

Killer Wireless-AC 1550 install in Linux Mint - https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=272888 (Thanks JeremyB!)

Cannot See Certain Wi-Fi Networks

3.5 

Some users may experience issues with their Killer Wi-Fi adapter not being able to detect certain specific Wi-Fi access points. Here are the things to check for:

  • If you are in Europe and the access point might be on the 2.4 GHz band, it may be using channels 12 or 13. If you have access to the settings on this access point, try changing the the channel to 1, 6, or 11. If not, try updating to the latest version of drivers, which should be able to make use of channels 12 and 13 in European countries - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads
  • Your router or modem may be using a DFS channel. DFS channels are 5 GHz channels that can be used by the public, but public devices receive a "leave the channel" command if official use is necessary. Although Killer Wi-Fi adapters ordinarily have no problem operating on DFS channels, if your laptop has been used in an area where the DFS channel was being used in an official capacity (such as an airport), it may have received the signal to stay off of that channel. For example, in the United States and some parts of Europe, DFS channels are 5 GHz channels 50-144. When troubleshooting a wireless network that does not appear for a specific device, these channels should be avoided in these areas. You can use the chart available on this Wiki page to quickly see which channels are available in your area of the world. We have also noted that some routers will automatically choose DFS channels even though they are not compatible with those same channels, and they must be manually set to a channel in order to not use them. 
  • Your router or modem may need to be power cycled. All routers and modems rely on a very small amount of physical resources and, eventually, those resources will hang, making it necessary to restart them from time to time. The fastest and simplest way to do this is to unplug the device for ten seconds, then plug it back in. This can help even if only one device is having problems with the access point.
  • Your computer may need to be restarted. Restart your computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Note that pressing the power button on most modern computers activates sleep mode - it does not shut them down. In order for your computer to reboot, you must either click Shut Down or Restart
  • You may be too far away from the wireless access point. Wireless signals rely on line of sight and, as such, each individual solid object between your device and the access point diminishes the signal. A single wall may contain multiple solid objects. A floor contains concrete subflooring, wood framing, piping, and various other solid objects. If at all possible, make sure you can connect with another device before assuming any one device is faulty. 
  • There may be interference. 2.4 GHz routers in crowded apartment complexes are especially susceptible to this. You can use the KIller Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer to see how many people are sharing your current channel. If too many people are on the same channel as you, it may not be possible to connect to your own access point from too far away. Setting your sideband, or side channel, to 20 MHz can help mitigate this, as the smaller ths sideband, the stronger the signal. 
  • Your wireless profile may have become corrupted. If you have connected to this access point before, but it is no longer visible, you may need to delete the connection's profile and reconnect. Here are the steps:
    • Click the rectangular "Connect" button, where you would normally click to connect to a wireless network, on the bottom, right-hand side of your screen.
    • Click Network and Internet Settings.
    • Click Wi-Fi on the left, if it is not already selected.
    • Click Manage Known Networks
    • Click the network that you are not able to detect.
    • Click the Forget button.
    • Close the Settings window, and connect like normal. If the access point still does not appear, try restarting your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.

If you are still unable to connect to a specific wireless access point, feel free to reach out to our support here - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/contact

Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?

 

Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?

Users have asked if the E2500, E2400, and E2200 can be used wirelessly. These are Ethernet adapters, so they cannot be used wirelessly. They require an Ethernet cable to be connected to your machine, and to an Internet gateway, such as a modem or router.

Your machine may also come with a wireless adapter, which may or may not be a Killer Networking adapter. If the wireless adapter is not a Killer Networking adapter, the Killer Control Center will report "No Killer Network Interfaces Connected" when you are connected to the Internet with only the non-Killer adapter. This is normal, as the Killer Control Center can only be used with Killer Networking adapters. 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

5.0 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

Users may encounter a situation where their Killer Wireless-AC adapter will not connect to their FIOS router on the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band. 

This seems to be due to the FIOS routers automatically choosing specific DFS channels that they may not fully support. There are a multitude of reports about this phenomenon around the web - where certain devices can connect to them while others cannot - but this post explains it fairly well - https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/2tu2so/why_some_devices_cant_see_the_verizon_fios_g1100s.

Fortunately, the fix is simple:

  1. Log in to your FIOS router's setup page. This page explains how to do so with some FIOS routers. It may not include all models. You may have to seek assistance from your ISP. https://www.howtogeek.com/197382/how-to-change-the-wi-fi-channel-on-your-verizon-fios-router/
  2. Change your router's 5 GHz channel. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to find which channel has the least traffic, but changing to any channel that is not a DFS channel should allow your devices to connect. Channels 36-48 and 149-165 are non-DFS channels in the United States. Your area may vary. You can reference this chart to find out which channels are DFS channels, and which are not, in your area of the world - - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5_GHz_(802.11a/h/j/n/ac/ax)
  3. Restart your machine, if necessary, and see if the issue is resolved. 

Wi-Fi Issues with 1435/1535/1525 on Debian, Ubuntu, and Arch

2.3 

Wi-Fi Disconnects and Latency with 1435/1535/1525 on Debian, Ubuntu, and Arch

Some users have noted Wi-Fi disconnects and latency on some distros of Linux after recent updates.

This issue likely affects Debian, Ubuntu, and Arch, and may also affect any other Debian-based distros such as Mint, Kali, etc. 

As the ath10k Wi-Fi driver that is used by our Wi-Fi devices in these versions of Linux is a community sourced driver, we have no direct impact on its stability, but since some users have indicated that they have found a fix for these issues, we wanted to share the fix with the rest of our users. 

In summary, the fix is to install the updated firmware and firmware repo, following these steps:

  1. Download https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/blob/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin and overwrite /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin with the downloaded file.
  2. Download https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/blob/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/4.4.1/firmware-6.bin_WLAN.RM.4.4.1-00065-QCARMSWP-1and overwrite /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/firmware-6.bin.
  3. Restart

Following is a much more detailed, step-by-step guide on how to implement this fix:

  1. Open a Terminal window and navigate to the following location:
    cd /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/
  2. Backup your board-2.bin and firmware-6.bin files:
    sudo mv /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin.bak
    sudo mv /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/firmware-6.bin /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/firmware-6.bin.bak
  3. Download the two replacement versions and place them into the '/lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/' folder:
    Download: https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/blob/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin
    Download: https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/raw/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/4.4.1/firmware-6.bin_WLAN.RM.4.4.1-00065-QCARMSWP-1
  4. Rename your new 'firmware-6...' file to 'firmware-6.bin':
    sudo mv firmware-6.bin_WLAN.RM.4.4.1-00065-QCARMSWP-1 firmware-6.bin
  5. Enter ls -la into your terminal to verify the directory looks something like this:
    user@Ubuntu-XPS:/lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0$ ls -la
    total 3168
    drwxr-xr-x 2 root root 4096 Feb 6 15:29 .
    drwxr-xr-x 4 root root 4096 Jun 24 2016 ..
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 271412 Feb 6 15:30 board-2.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 271412 Feb 6 15:28 board-2.bin.bak
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 337204 Nov 15 15:56 board-2.bin.wifi-qca6174
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 8124 May 12 2016 board.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 8124 Dec 1 2016 board.bin.wifi-qca6174
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 733784 Dec 1 2016 firmware-4.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 711408 Feb 6 15:30 firmware-6.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 711408 Feb 6 15:28 firmware-6.bin.bak
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 79689 Dec 1 2016 notice_ath10k_firmware-4.txt
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 82663 Nov 15 15:44 notice_ath10k_firmware-6.txt
  6. Restart your computer.

The 1535 1525 and 1435 use the community developed and supported ath10k driver. Killer Networking neither develops nor supports the ath10k driver. For further support, please refer either to the community support for you specific Linux distrobution and version, or the driver itself.

Chromecast Issues With Killer Wireless-AC 1550

5.0 

Chromecast Issues With Killer Wireless-AC 1550

Some users may experience issues when casting to a Chromecast device with their Killer Wireless-AC 1550. These issues can be resolved by following these steps:

  1. Click Start
  2. Type cmd and right-click Command Prompt and click Run as administrator
  3. In the Command Prompt window, type netsh and press Enter
  4. Type interface and press Enter
  5. Type ipv4 and press Enter
  6. Type or copy and paste set subinterface "Wi-Fi" mtu=1458 store=persistent and press Enter
  7. Close the command prompt window and test

 

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.