Wireless Not Working After Update / Code 10 Error

4.3 

Wireless Not Working After Update / Code 10 Error

Some users have contacted us regarding their Killer Networking adapters not working after a Windows Update. This has affected various adapters, including the 1525, 1535, and 1550. Although we are as yet unsure exactly which update is causing this issue, there seems to be a connection with specific machine manufacturers having pushed an outdated version of the Killer Control Center through Windows Update, along with extremely outdated wireless drivers, which leads to a corrupted device driver.

The following troubleshooting steps should allow you to resolve the issue. 

  1. If your machine has Internet access through Ethernet, or if you are able to move files onto the machine using a USB thumb drive or some other medium, clean installing to the most recent version of the Killer Control Center and device drivers is the best way to resolve this issue. Click here for the guide on clean installing the latest Killer Control Center and device drivers. 
  2. (Code 10) If the clean install does not solve the issue, try manually installing the latest device drivers for your Killer Wireless device. This will hopefully replace the corrupted device driver. Click here for the guide to manually install drivers in Device Manager.
  3. If manually installing the driver does not resolve the issue, or if the network adapter is not present in Device Manager, try clean installing the drivers in Device Manager. This is different than clean installing the Killer Control Center or simply manually installing the drivers in Device Manager. This will hopefully remove the corrupted driver from the Windows Driver Store, allowing you to update to a working driver. Click here for our guide on clean installing drivers in Device Manager.
  4. If none of the above resolves the issue, then the issue may be due to something that is not strictly related to your wireless adapter or drivers, but is causing the adapter to malfunction. Check the support downloads page for your machine or motherboard manufacturer and make sure that you have the latest BIOS available, as well as the latest chipset drivers available. 
  5. If none of the above resolves your issue, you may need to uninstall whatever update caused the issue. Click here for our guide on uninstalling Windows Updates. Please note that this guide only refers to Microsoft Windows Updates specifically. It's possible that the update that caused the issue was not an update to Microsoft Windows, but an update to something else on your system. Keep that in mind if you find yourself manually uninstalling recent updates, which is otherwise covered in the linked guide. 
  6. If you have followed every step in this guide and still have not been able to establish wireless connectivity, try discharging your machine to reset the CMOS. Click here for our guide on discharging your machine. 
  7. If none of the above resolved the issue, then you may need to resort to resetting Windows. This may result in lost files and applications, so restoring a backup is preferable, if you have one available. Click here for Microsoft's information on resetting Windows and click "Reset your PC." Please be sure to read exactly what the reset will entail. Alternatively, you may find that other options on that page may better fit your needs. If you do go this route, make sure you install the latest Killer Control Center and drivers as soon as Windows updates to 1803 or later, before other updates can take place. This is best done using our clean install guide (click here). To find out which version of Windows is currently installed, click Start, type winver, and press Enter. Refer to the "Version" number. When resetting  your PC or reinstalling Windows, this number may change as Windows updates. As soon as the build is 1803 or newer, install the latest Killer Control Center and drivers using the clean install guide. 
  8. Unfortunately, if none of the above resolves your issue, your next step will be to contact your machine or motherboard manufacturer for RMA or repair options. When a wireless network adapter's driver is updated, the firmware on the chip is flashed. If none of the above solved the problem, then this indicates that the adapter is no longer capable of accepting a flash, and will need to be replaced. Alternatively, the machine or motherboard manufacturer may have an unpublished BIOS update or chipset driver that can resolve the issue. 

Wi-Fi or Bluetooth Missing

3.1 

Bluetooth or Wi-Fi Missing

Update September 15 2018 - Windows 10 1809, which is currently being released in October 2018, seems to have caused many of these issues since its release. If you are unable to resolve this issue by following this knowledge base article, you may need to revert your operating system back to the Windows 10 1803 to restore functionality. While we do not yet have a guide for this, there are quite a few around the web, such as this excellent guide for rolling back to Windows 10 1803. 

Note: This guide can be used in the event of any M.2 device vanishing from the Device Manager. The procedure lists Killer devices specifically, but the phenomenon is widespread among M.2 devices and Windows 10, and these same steps can be used to restore functionality when any M.2 device disappears from Device Manager.

When this occurs, it is an issue of the BIOS or the operating system not enumerating the device properly. In very rare situations, it can be cause by some kind of physical trauma causing the device to become dislodged, or the device failing, but more often than not, the hardware is just fine. It’s just a matter of getting Windows or, sometimes, the BIOS, to see it again. Sometimes the device will be missing altogether, or sometimes it will be grayed out - the difference is only in whether your Device Manager is set to show devices that are no longer present in the machine. Either way, the Device Manager thinks that the device is gone, and that is what needs to be addressed.

Once you have resolved the issue and the device reappears in Device Manager, make sure you update the Killer Control Center and your device drivers by running the latest Killer Control Center installer, which you can find here - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/. If you have any issues installing the latest Killer Control Center, you should be able to resolve them by clean instaling the Killer Control Center, following this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/kb/faq/105-clean-install-the-killer-control-center.

  • If the issue is that your Bluetooth is missing, but your Wi-Fi device is still present in Device Manager, make sure that you do not have any USB devices disabled. The internal Bluetooth adapter is actually a USB device, so if there are any USB devices disabled in your Device Manager, for any reason, this can cause the Bluetooth device to vanish. If you are unable to enable the USB device, then you should resolve that issue first. This includes USB Hub devices, or any devices under the Universal Serial Bus controllers category in Device Manager that show any errors, for any reason. On some platforms, this is the #1 cause of Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapters mysteriously vanishing from the Device Manager. Once you have resolved the USB issue, restart your machine, and check to see if the missing device has reappeared in your Device Manager. If you have recently plugged anything new into a USB port on your machine, unplug it and see if the error goes away in Device Manager. That USB device may be malfunctioning.  If there is nothing to remove, try these steps:
    • Right-click on the entry and click Enable, if applicable. If the only option is Disable, then the entry was already enabled.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Update Driver > Search Automatically for Updated Driver.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Uninstall Device > Uninstall, and then restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
    • Visit your machine or mainboard's support page and update your BIOS, chipset drivers, and USB drivers (if listed). 
    • Discharging the machine can also be helpful in clearing USB error codes. 

USB Error

Once you no longer have any disabled USB devices, the Bluetooth device should show back up. 

  • If you do not have any disabled USB devices, or any with errors, or if you have resolved that issue and the Wi-Fi or Bluetooth adapter has not reappeared in the Device Manager, then you will still need to update your chipset drivers, and possibly your machine or mainboard’s BIOS, if you haven't already. We have noted that some platforms have chipset drivers that are buggy enough that they absolutely will experience this issue if their chipset drivers are not updated. You will need to obtain these drivers from your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support download page. You can usually find this page by going to the main website for your machine or mainboard manufacturer and looking under "Support", or by using your preferred search engine to search for your specific model, then selecting the result that leads to your machine or mainboard manufacturer's website. Once you have found the support downloads page, if you cannot tell which drivers are the chipset drivers, it is generally recommended that you simply update all of the offered drivers, except for the Killer Network card drivers, which you should get from us, as they are likely more recent. If there is a BIOS update available, then updating the BIOS is also recommended, especially if the BIOS update notes mention anything that might pertain to this situation. Make certain that you at least update the chipset and USB drivers, if applicable. Some platforms combine the USB drivers into the chipset drivers, so you may not see a separate download. Once you have done these updates, restart the machine, and see if the missing device reappears in the Device Manager.
  • Depending on what is available, the best order in which to update is as follows:
    1. Update your BIOS from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    2. Update your chipset drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    3. Update the USB drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page.  If none are listed, they are probably rolled into the chipset driver. 
    4. Update all other drivers available from your machine or mainboard's support page, except Killer Networking and Bluetooth drivers, which you should get from us.
    5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  • Windows itself can also play a part in the disappearing device. The Anniversary Update saw many such devices vanish, so much so that the Creator’s Update added a Bluetooth troubleshooter to Windows 10. Make sure that your Windows installation is up to date by using Windows Search to search Windows Update

    windows update

    then press Enter, and click Check for Updates

  • Once it has downloaded and installed everything it finds, restart the machine, and repeat this process until Windows Update finds no updates directly after restarting. Once this happens, check to see if the device has reappeared in the Device Manager. If this doesn’t help, and the issue is Bluetooth related, you can try troubleshooting using Windows built-in troubleshooter. Microsoft has instructions here - https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/14169/windows-10-fix-bluetooth-problems-faq
  • Discharging the machine - If the device is still missing from the Device Manager, then that means that it isn’t the chipset drivers (or at least it isn’t only the chipset drivers) that is not properly enumerating the device, but rather the BIOS itself. In this case, you will need to discharge the machine to force the BIOS to re-enumerate all of its hardware (instructions below). Before you do this, make sure that you have updated the BIOS to the latest version, from the mainboard or machine manufacturer’s website, so that you address the flaw that caused this issue in the first place. Once that BIOS update is in place, and you have confirmed that the machine has booted back up, but the device is still not appearing in Device Manager, shut the machine back down, and unplug it from the wall. You will now need to fully discharge the machine.
    • If this is a desktop, you will need to remove the side panel, discharge yourself of static electricity on something metal (your computer’s case might work, or possibly your desk) and look for the CMOS battery. It is a large coin-cell battery. Remove that battery. Sometimes it’s easier with a flathead screwdriver, but it should be fairly simple to remove. Once you have removed that battery, press the power button on the machine 2-3 times to completely discharge it, then replace the CMOS battery and the case. If you are not comfortable doing this on your own, please refer to your mainboard or machine's support. 
    • If this is a laptop, hopefully it is one where you can easily remove the battery. This will be specific to your model of laptop, so you may need to refer to your owner’s manual, or your laptop’s support website. Some MSI models are held in with a single screw. If you are able to remove the laptop battery, do so, and then press the laptop’s power button a few times to fully discharge it.
    • If this is a laptop, but you are unable to remove the battery, or would prefer not to, you can discharge the machine through usage, instead. Unplug the laptop from the electric outlet, and temporarily change the power plan to a setting that does not allow it to sleep when the battery is low, then run the laptop until it discharges itself and will no longer power on. Once it has discharged itself, press the power button a few times to make sure it is fully discharged.
    • Once you have a fully discharged machine, put it back together, plug it back in, and let it boot in to Windows. You may see a message mentioning setting the BIOS to defaults, or something along those lines. This is nothing to be alarmed about – simply confirm that you want it set to defaults, unless you had set custom settings, in which case, you will need to re-set those custom settings. In the future, this message may be a warning that your CMOS or laptop battery is dead or on its last legs, but for now, we know that you discharged the machine on purpose, so we can safely ignore this warning. Once you are booted back in to Windows, check the Device Manager to make sure that the missing Wi-Fi or Bluetooth device is no longer missing.
  • In some very rare cases, the device may not show up because the machine was not fully discharged. We have had users report that they were able to repeat the steps to discharge their machines a second time, and have had success after that. Once the updates were in place, and the devices shows up, that is usually the end of the problem.

One final step that you can take, if you are willing and able to do so, is to physically reseat your Wi-Fi adapter. The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth device are on the same card, so there is only one adapter to reseat, and reseating this adapter only requires that you remove one screw, slide it out of the slot, then slide it back in and screw it back down, being careful not to dislodge or damage the attached antenna leads. However, the difficulty in getting to this adapter and performing this step will vary depending on your machine or mainboard, and your level of expertise. You may wish to consult with your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support at this point. If you have followed all of the other steps, and the device still has not reappeared, the device, or the mainboard, may also be physically damaged, and in need of repair, which would also necessitate contacting your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support for RMA or repair options.  

How to Discharge Your Machine to Reset Your CMOS

 

How to Discharge Your Machine to Reset Your CMOS

This guide will cover how to discharge your machine to reset your CMOS, forcing your machine to re-enumerate its devices. This is useful for when a device, such as a Wi-Fi adapter, has vanished from Device Manager, and you have taken steps to correct the problem, such as updating the machine's BIOS or reseating the device, but the device has not reappeared in Device Manager. 

Please note that some machines have a CMOS reset button or procedure. This is often easier to complete than discharging the machine, so that may be worth investigating. Desktop motherboards may have a CMOS reset button, and laptops may have a keypress combination. This will vary by manufacturer and model. 

Also, please note that any time you open up your machine, you do so at your own risk. This isn't generally a dangerous or difficult thing, but know your own capabilities. 

Discharging a Desktop  

  1. Shut down the computer by clicking Start > Power > Shut Down.
  2. Unplug the machine from the power outlet. 
  3. Open the machine and remove the CMOS battery. 
    1. This may or may not be necessary. You may want to try this guide without removing the CMOS battery first to see if this will be required for your motherboard, then repeat the process if it does not work, removing the CMOS battery the second time around.
    2. The CMOS battery is a large button battery, usually a 2032. Click here for a plethora of images. There will be a metal clip over it, which you will want to push in with a screwdriver, which will usually cause the battery to pop up a bit, allowing you to remove it by hand.
  4. Press and hold the power button for ten seconds to full discharge the machine. Then release the power button, then do it again, just to be sure. 
  5. Replace the CMOS battery if removed. The positive side will face outward, and the battery should just snap right into place and stay there. 
  6. Plug the computer back into the electricity.
  7. Power the computer on. You may see an error about CMOS values being reset. If you have never messed with these, press whatever combination sets things to default so that it will load into Windows. If you used custom BIOS settings, you may wish set those back up. 
  8. Once the computer is back up, right-click Start, click Device Manager, and check to see if the CMOS reset brought the missing device back. 

Discharging a Laptop

  1. Shut down the computer by clicking Start > Power > Shut Down.
  2. Unplug the machine from the power outlet. 
  3. Remove battery power from the machine.
    1. If the machine has an accessible, easily removable battery, remove it.
    2. If the machine does not have an accessible, easily removable battery, then you have two options.
      1. Open up the machine enough to disconnect the battery. You will need to refer to a guide or teardown manual for your specific model of machine. 
      2. Run the battery down to empty through usage. This option is the hardest on the battery. Make sure that you completely drain the battery and that it will not power on. 
  4. Press and hold the power button for ten seconds to completely discharge the machine. Then release the power button, then do it again, just to be sure.
  5. Replace or reconnect the battery.
  6. Plug the machine into the electricity.
  7. Power the computer on. You may see an error about CMOS values being reset. If you have never messed with these, press whatever combination sets things to default so that it will load into Windows. If you used custom BIOS settings, you may wish set those back up. If you had to run the machine until it was out of power, it may take a lot longer than normal to boot. This is normal, and will only happen this first boot after power is restored.
  8. Once the computer is back up, right-click Start, click Device Manager, and check to see if the CMOS reset brought the missing device back. 

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.