Wireless Not Working After Update / Code 10 Error


Wireless Not Working After Update / Code 10 Error

Some users have contacted us regarding their Killer Networking adapters not working after a Windows Update. This has affected various adapters, including the 1525, 1535, and 1550. Although we are as yet unsure exactly which update is causing this issue, there seems to be a connection with specific machine manufacturers having pushed an outdated version of the Killer Control Center through Windows Update, along with extremely outdated wireless drivers, which leads to a corrupted device driver.

The following troubleshooting steps should allow you to resolve the issue. 

  1. If your machine has Internet access through Ethernet, or if you are able to move files onto the machine using a USB thumb drive or some other medium, clean installing to the most recent version of the Killer Control Center and device drivers is the best way to resolve this issue. Click here for the guide on clean installing the latest Killer Control Center and device drivers. 
  2. (Code 10) If the clean install does not solve the issue, try manually installing the latest device drivers for your Killer Wireless device. This will hopefully replace the corrupted device driver. Click here for the guide to manually install drivers in Device Manager.
  3. If manually installing the driver does not resolve the issue, or if the network adapter is not present in Device Manager, try clean installing the drivers in Device Manager. This is different than clean installing the Killer Control Center or simply manually installing the drivers in Device Manager. This will hopefully remove the corrupted driver from the Windows Driver Store, allowing you to update to a working driver. Click here for our guide on clean installing drivers in Device Manager.
  4. If none of the above resolves the issue, then the issue may be due to something that is not strictly related to your wireless adapter or drivers, but is causing the adapter to malfunction. Check the support downloads page for your machine or motherboard manufacturer and make sure that you have the latest BIOS available, as well as the latest chipset drivers available. 
  5. If none of the above resolves your issue, you may need to uninstall whatever update caused the issue. Click here for our guide on uninstalling Windows Updates. Please note that this guide only refers to Microsoft Windows Updates specifically. It's possible that the update that caused the issue was not an update to Microsoft Windows, but an update to something else on your system. Keep that in mind if you find yourself manually uninstalling recent updates, which is otherwise covered in the linked guide. 
  6. If you have followed every step in this guide and still have not been able to establish wireless connectivity, try discharging your machine to reset the CMOS. Click here for our guide on discharging your machine. 
  7. If none of the above resolved the issue, then you may need to resort to resetting Windows. This may result in lost files and applications, so restoring a backup is preferable, if you have one available. Click here for Microsoft's information on resetting Windows and click "Reset your PC." Please be sure to read exactly what the reset will entail. Alternatively, you may find that other options on that page may better fit your needs. If you do go this route, make sure you install the latest Killer Control Center and drivers as soon as Windows updates to 1803 or later, before other updates can take place. This is best done using our clean install guide (click here). To find out which version of Windows is currently installed, click Start, type winver, and press Enter. Refer to the "Version" number. When resetting  your PC or reinstalling Windows, this number may change as Windows updates. As soon as the build is 1803 or newer, install the latest Killer Control Center and drivers using the clean install guide. 
  8. Unfortunately, if none of the above resolves your issue, your next step will be to contact your machine or motherboard manufacturer for RMA or repair options. When a wireless network adapter's driver is updated, the firmware on the chip is flashed. If none of the above solved the problem, then this indicates that the adapter is no longer capable of accepting a flash, and will need to be replaced. Alternatively, the machine or motherboard manufacturer may have an unpublished BIOS update or chipset driver that can resolve the issue. 

Which Killer Control Center Should I Install?


Which Killer Control Center Should I Install?

Users may notice that we often host more than one version of the Killer Control Center available for download from our website. This article will summarize the difference between the versions available, and hopefully give the user an idea of which installer they should download and use. 

A note on the Killer Network Manager - The Killer Network Manager is our deprecated performance suite. It does not contain current drivers. Users are free to use the Killer Network Manager if they like, but, as it is no longer in development, the first step in troubleshooting should be to uninstall the Killer Network Manager and install the Killer Control Center.
A note on finding your Windows version number - You will see Windows version numbers referenced in the following information. You can find your Windows version by clicking Start, then type winver and press Enter. You will see a box with information about your Windows install, including the Version, which is probably 1709 or 1803, as of June 5 2018. 
A note on device compatibility  -  The E2100, 2100, K1, M1, and Xeno Pro are legacy devices, and no longer receive driver updates. They are not supported with either of these packages.

The current Killer Control Center versions are as follows, as of August 3, 2018:


Killer Software Package - for Windows 10 1803+

Release Notes


Device Compatibility: Killer Ethernet E2200, E2205, E2400, E2500 / Killer Wireless-AC 1550, 1435, 1535, 1525 

OS Compatibility: Windows 10 Build 1803 April 2018 Update and Later Only

What is this? This version is a major update. This is our most recent release, which has been tested primarily with, and optimized for Windows 10 version 1803 (April 2018 Update) and Windows 10 1809 (October 2018 Update). This package contains the latest drivers for all current Killer Networking devices, except for Wireless-N adapters. Also included is the latest Killer Control Center performance suite. A Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is not required - all supported Ethernet and Wireless-AC adapters will work with this version. The installer will first install device drivers, and then redirect to the Windows Store to install the Killer Control Center software. Please note that the version number listed here is the version of the installer. The version of the Killer Control Center that the Windows Store installs will be different. Machines with the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 and Killer E3000 will receive the Killer Control Center 2.0 user interface, while older adapters will receive the same optimizations to the service, but a slightly updated version of the original Killer Control Center user interface.

What's new from the previous release? Killer Control Center 2.0 for machines with a Killer Wireless-AC 1550 (including 1550i and 1550s) and E3000 adapters. Many backed/service updates for all devices.

Who should use this?  All currently supported Killer Networking adapter users who are using Windows 10 version 1803 (April 2018 Update), except those using Wireless-N adapters. Those using the Windows Insider Preview versions of Windows 10 are also encouraged to use this version, and provide us with any feedback, should you encounter any issues.

What if this will not install?  Click here for troubleshooting steps. If you are unable to install this version, please try installing version 1.5.1859 above after submitting your install log. It is important that you submit your install log before installing 1.5.1859, or the install log will reflect the results of that install instead of reflecting the results of your attempted install of the UWD version.

Special conditions for this release: This version will install on versions of Windows 10 that are older than version 1803 (April 2018 Update), but many things will not function well. We highly recommend installing this version only on Windows 10 1803, 1809, or newer.



Killer Control Center 64-bit - for Windows 7, 8.1 & older Windows 10 versions

Release Notes


Device Compatibility: Killer Ethernet E2200, E2205, E2400, E2500 / Killer Wireless-AC 1550, 1435, 1535, 1525 / Killer Wireless-N 1102,1103,1202

OS Compatibility: Windows 10 (all builds), Windows 8.1, Windows 7

What is this? This is our previous release, which was well tested and troublefree on all versions of Windows 10, including 1803 and 1809, except some edge cases with later hardware and 1803+.  This package contains the latest drivers for all Killer Networking devices, except for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, as well as the Killer Control Center performance suite. The included driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is not known to be problematic, but our other package includes a more recent driver for this device. 

What's new from the previous release? A new, updated driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550. 

Who should use this?  All Killer Network adapter owners who are using Windows 7 and Windows 8.1, as well as those using Windows 10, who have not yet updated to Version 1803 (Windows Spring Update) or later, or who would prefer to not install the Killer Control Center through the Windows Store. Also, all Killer Wireless-N network adapter users, including Windows 1803 and 1809 or later, should use this install.

What if this will not install? Click here for troubleshooting steps

Special conditions for this release: Unlike the other package, this release uses a regular installer, and does not go through the Windows Store.


Errors When Installing

There have been many reports of issues with the Killer Control Center which can be resolved by performing a clean install of the Killer Control Center, as opposed to an update install, where the latest version is installed while an older version is in place. When troubleshooting, this is a good place to start. Here are the steps to perform a clean install of the Killer Control Center:

  1. Make sure you have the current installer handy to install. 
  2. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe
  3. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  4. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. It is not necessary to scan, and the scan may not find anything. Regardless, click Remove Killer Software, and give it some time to run. When it is finished, it will say "RESTART REQUIRED."
  5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  6. Once your machine has booted back up, access  your temporary files folder and delete the contents
    1. Click Start
    2. Type %temp% and press Enter. Your temp folder should open.
    3. Delete all files in the temp folder. These are all temporary install files, and are safe to delete. If you receive a prompt saying that a file cannot be deleted, you can safely select Skip All
    4. Close the temp folder
  7. Run the installer that you downloaded for the Killer Control Center. Follow the prompts to complete the installation. 
  8. Restart your machine if the installer requested a restart.
  9. Test to see if the issue is resolved.

If you are unable to resolve the issue with a clean install, please contact support so that we can help you out!


Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects


Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects

Please note that this article is not meant to be followed step-by-step to completion. Instead, it's a list of suggestions that are known to be fixes for wireless drops and disconnects, with the most effective suggestions at the top. Once you find something that works, there is no need to read or implement the rest of this guide. 

Drops and disconnects are, unfortunately, still a part of using Wi-Fi Internet. They're frustrating, and they seem to happen at the worst, most annoying times, but with all of the different technology that has to come together to work correctly, it's surprising that Wi-Fi is generally very reliable! 

We want your Killer Wireless adapter to be the most reliable part of your Wi-Fi connection, so we have put together the steps that you can take, when you are encountering Wi-Fi drops, that are most likely to resolve the issue. Some of them are specific to our adapter, while some are more general. This is because, in our experience, most Wi-Fi disconnects are due more to the wireless environment than any specific wireless adapter. Here are the steps that our experience has shown are most likely to solve Wi-Fi disconnect issues:

  1. Update your Wi-Fi adapter's drivers to the latest available from our website. Click here for instructions on how to clean install the latest Killer Control Center that is appropriate for your Windows build. 
  2. Update your motherboard or machine's BIOS. This is especially true if you are using a laptop, as laptop manufacturer's are constantly releasing BIOS updates to address Wi-Fi issues. You can usually easily find the support downloads section for your specific machine or motherboard by using Google to search your machine's model number, followed by "downloads." Make sure you read the instructions before you flash the BIOS!
  3. Update your motherboard or machine's chipset drivers. These control resources within Windows. You can also find these on your support download page. If the manufacturer has not updated in a long time, you can also go straight to the chipset manufacturer (Intel or AMD) and get newer, but more generic chipset drivers. Your results may vary, with those.
  4. Reset your entire network and network stack using this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/93-resetting-network-devices-and-network-stack. Even if you have done some of these things at various points, it's worth it to do all of them, in that order, to make sure everything is reset correctly.
  5. If you are using any antivirus or firewall application, temporarily uninstall it, then restart your machine. Unfortunately, disabling these applications does not prevent them from manipulating network packets - they have to be temporarily uninstalled. If this resolves the issue, you may be able to simply reinstall the application using a freshly downloaded copy, and the disconnects may not return. If they do return, refer to the support team for that application. 
  6. Change your Wi-Fi adapter's power settings. You can find the step-by-step instructions for that here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/59-wi-fi-power-settings
  7. Check your Wi-Fi signal strength. You can see this in the Killer Control Center in the Wi-Fi Analyzer menu after clicking your Wi-Fi network (make sure to switch to 5 GHz if you are using a 5 GHz network, or 2.4 GHz if you are using a 2.4 GHz network). You will see "Signal Strength" appear at the bottom of the Killer Control Center. Anything below 80% and you are very likely to see drops and disconnects, especially when transferring large files or while gaming. If the signal strength is below 80% when  you are in the same room as the access point, with clear line of sight between the laptop and the access point, then there is very likely something wrong with the machine's antennas. If you can't get 100% signal strength when within 5 feet of the wireless access point, then the issue is definitely an antenna issue. In this case, you will need to contact the machine manufacturer for repair or RMA options, unless you feel comfortable opening the machine and checking the antenna leads yourself. 
  8. Experiment with changing your Wi-Fi adapter's Device Manager settings. Try changing one setting at a time, then testing, to see if the change helped. To get to these, right-click Start, click Device Manager, double-click Network Adapters, double-click your wireless adapter, click the Advanced tab. Then, click the following settings in the "Property" box, and change their values in the "Value" box:
    1. Dynamic MIMO Power Save: Experiment with disabling 
    2. Preferred Band: If you know for certain that either 5 GHz (often Wireless-AC) or 2.4 GHz (often-Wireless-N) wireless signals should work better in your situation, you can try setting a preference here.
    3. Roaming Aggressiveness: This determines how quickly your wireless adapter will switch access points when there are multiple saved access points in range. If the aggressiveness is set too low, it is more likely to hang on to an access point with low signal strength, even if there is a better option available. If it is set too high, you will experience Wi-Fi drops if multiple nearby access points have similar signal strengths, as the adapter will switch between them often, disrupting the data flow. If you have multiple saved access points in range, this setting deserves tweaking and testing. 
    4. Wireless Mode: This dictates which types of wireless connections to which your adapter is allowed to connect. Generally speaking, this should be left to its highest available setting, such as 12 - 11 a/b/g/n/ac, which means the adapter will connect to Wireless-A, B, G, N, or Wireless-AC access points. However, some users have reported that, especially with older Wireless-N access points, restricting Wireless-AC adapters to 09 - 11 a/g/n has improved Wi-Fi reliability for them. If you are unlikely to encounter Wireless-AC access points and speeds, this is certainly worth exploring.  The only types of wireless connection that are currently in widespread use are Wireless-N, AC, and, to a much lesser degree, Wireless-G. 
  9. If you are only experiencing problems with one network, and the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer shows that you have a signal strength of over 80, then the access point probably needs a firmware update.
    1. If this is your own home network, and you are using a router which you have purchased and connected to the modem that is provided by your Internet Service Provider, updating firmware is usually easily done. Refer to your specific router manufacturer’s instructions on doing this. If the router sports automatic firmware updating, don't trust it. Check the version that is loaded on the device against the current version available on the device's website. Very often, you'll find that you are not running the latest version, and that you will need to manually update.
    2. If this is your home network, and you are connecting wirelessly to the modem that is provided by your ISP, then you will need to contact your ISP and have them update your firmware. This is usually a quick click of a button and a small wait for their support team, but they will sometimes say that their modems update automatically. Ask them to please verify, by firmware version number, that your modem is using the most up-to-date firmware version. 
  10. One other thing you can try is the Windows Network Reset. This will reistall your adapter, and will reset many things that are not easily accessible otherwise. This will also reset all saved Wi-Fi networks, including their passwords, and will remove all associations with any virtual adapters. To use this, simply click Start, type Network Reset, click Network Reset, and follow the prompts until completion. 
  11. You should also investigate your wireless landscape. Many Wi-Fi drops and connection issues are due to radio interference. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer to determine which channels are least used on each band (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) and change your Wi-Fi router's settings accordingly. Here are some tips on which settings to choose:

    1. On the 2.4 GHz band, always choose Channels 1, 11, or 6. Try to pick the emptiest of the three, using the Wi-Fi Analyzer as your guide. Channels other than 1, 11, or 6 will receive more interference. European users can also use Channels 12 and 13 on the 2.4 GHz band. If you are in Europe, and your Killer Wireless device cannot see networks on Channels 12 and 13, please see this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/61-wi-fi-channels-12-and-13
    2. On the 5 GHz band, choose a channel that is as far away from other channels as possible. If you are experiencing Wi-Fi drops and you are using a DFS channel, (Channels 50-144 in the USA, other areas can be found on this chart), try changing to another 5 GHz channel and see if that improves the issue. 
    3. If you do have to share a channel, or if there are competing networks close to yours, set your sideband or side channel (the name of the setting will depend on your router manufacturer) to 20 MHz. This creates a tight, more powerful signal. Higher sidebands should only be considered if you have no Wi-Fi radio competition, but need the signal to get around solid objects. 
    4. If you have extenders, access points, or any other wireless routers, make sure they are operating on a different channel than your primary router. Even a single Wi-Fi router with multiple radios can conflict with itself if those radios are set to the same channel. 
    5. Do not depend on "auto" settings if you are experiencing problems. They are not always reliable, and will often switch to less desirable configurations.
    6. Consider that Wi-Fi is a line-of-sight radio technology. Each solid between the antenna of your wireless access point (router/modem) and your computer will diminish the signal. Repositioning things by inches can make a world of difference. 
    7. Try changing your channel width (some routers may call it sideband or side channel). This is another area where many routers are, by default, set to "auto", but don't do a very good job. The higher the channel width, the more data the stream can carry, making it potentially faster, and the more likely it is to get around solid objects. However, the signal will have overall less strength, and will be more prone to interference from other nearby channels. Depending your Wi-Fi landscape, it may be best to give up some channel width in order to get the extra strength and dodge interference, even if your router and adapter can handle higher channel widths.
      1. On the 5 GHz band, set the channel width to 40 MHz and see if that improves reliability. 
      2. On the 2.4 GHz band, set the channel width to 20 MHz and see if that improves reliability. 

If none of these solve the issue for you, please feel free to reach out to support by clicking Contact Support under Support at the top of the website.  

Will The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 Work In My Laptop?


Will The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 Work In My Laptop?

Many users have emailed us asking if the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 will fit in their laptop. (Click here to find out if the 1550 will fit your desktop.) Although we cannot know the exact specifications of each make and model of laptop, even if we have the model numbers for said laptops, we can give you some basic guidelines.

Look Up The Wireless Adapter That Your Machine Is Currently Using To See If It Uses A PCIe Half Mini Adapter, or An M.2 Adapter

To do this, right-click Start, click Device Manager, then double-click Network Adapters. You should find a wireless adapter listed there. Comparing to that adapter is the easiest way to know what will work in your system.

The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is an M.2 adapter which uses IPEX-MHF4 antenna receptacles.

If your machine is using a Killer Wireless-AC 1525, 1435, or 1535, then the 1550 will almost certainly work as a replacement/upgrade. Please see manufacturer caveats below. 

If your machine is using a Killer Wireless-N 1102, 1103, or 1202, it will definitely not work as a replacement/upgrade, as these are PCIe Half Mini adapters. 

If your machine is using another brand's wireless adapter, you will need to find out if that adapter is an M.2 adapter that uses IPEX-MHF4 antenna receptacles. If it is not an M.2 adapter, then the 1550 will not work in its place. If the antennas are different, then the antenna leads will not fit onto the 1550 without modification, which may include cutting and splicing wires.Official websites are good sources of information, but you can also find information on shopping websites, such as Amazon and eBay, as resellers have a vested interest in providing accurate information about the product they are selling. Just make sure to verify with a few listings. For 100% verification, you will need to contact the machine manufacturer to find out what interface and antenna conections it uses for Wi-Fi. 

You can also open the machine up to verify whether the machine uses an M.2 slot for its Wi-Fi adapters. Below is an image comparing a PCIe Half Mini and an M.2 adapter, the two most common formats with modern Wi-Fi adapters.:

Manufacturer Caveats

There are two other things that need to be verified before you know for sure if switching Wi-Fi adapters is an option. Only the machine manufacturer or, potentially, their support community, can tell you these things.

  • Does the machine employ Wi-Fi lockouts? Some machine manufacturers have lockouts, which are built into the BIOS, that will either prevent the machine from booting, or prevent the wireless adapter from working, if an adapter other than the original is used. 
  • Is the Wi-Fi adapter soldered in? Some machine manufacturers solder down the Wi-Fi adapter. In these machines, even though they are using a normal slot for the Wi-Fi adapter, the adapter cannot be removed.

Other Considerations

  • Linux Support - The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 uses the iwlwifi driver, which is widely supported in nearly every Linux distribution. However, only the latest versions of this driver contain the hardware ID for the 1550, so only the latest Linux kernels support the 1550. Without the advanced Linux expertise required to patch the driver and rebuild the kernel, Linux support is still limited. 
  • Windows Support - The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is not supported in Windows 7 or Windows 8.1. It is only supported in Windows 10. The Wireless xTend feature is only supported in Windows 10 1803 (April 2018 Update). 

Will the Killer 1550 Work In My Desktop Mainboard?


Some users have inquired whether the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is compatible with their desktop mainboards. 

Most desktop mainboard M.2 slots are keyed for storage, not for Wi-Fi. You will need to refer to the manufacturer of your specific mainboard, but unless there was a Wi-Fi adapter pre-installed in the mainboard, the M.2 slot is very likely keyed for storage. In such cases, no Wi-Fi adapter will work in that slot.

We have also received questions regarding using the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 in M.2 to PCI-E converters. Although these types of converters usually work well enough, we have noted that the 1550 sometimes does not work in converters that work well with other adapters. This seems to be tied more to the age of the computer than anything to do with the converters, but we have not yet narrowed down any specifics, so we cannot say for sure what will and will not work in this capacity. 

For more frequently asked questions about the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, please see the full FAQ here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/87-questions-about-the-killer-wireless-ac-1550

Installing the Killer 1550 with an M.2 to PCI-E Converter


Installing the Killer 1550 with an M.2 to PCI-E Converter

The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 can be used in some M.2 to PCI-E converters, allowing desktop machines with open PCI-E slots to use the adapter, provided the following conditions are met.

  • The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 can only be used in PCI-E 1x or PCI-E 4x slots. It cannot be used in the longer PCI-E 8x or PCI-E 16x slots. Using an incorrect PCI-E slot can cause the 1550 to either not appear in Device Manager, or to appear in Device Manager with an error, or a bang symbol.
  • In our testing, we have noted that converters often do not produce working results when the converter is plugged into a northbridge slot. We advise that you use your converter in a southbridge slot. Although you will need to reference the technical specifications for your motherboard to know exactly which slot corresponds with which bridge, southbridge slots are generally those beneath the dedicate graphics slot on a desktop motherboard when the motherboard is installed in a tower case. 
  • For Bluetooth, a USB cable must be run between a USB 2.0 header on the motherboard and the USB header on the converter. If this is not connected, Bluetooth will not appear in Device Manager at all, and will not be usable. 
  • We cannot recommend any specific PCI-E converters. These are usually available from various vendors on Amazon, and most of them seem to work well, but they are typically unbranded, so buy at your own risk.
  • Please note that the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is only compatible with Windows 10.

Questions about the Killer Wireless-AC 1550


Questions about the Killer Wireless-AC 1550

Some users have had questions about the Killer Wireless-AC 1550. This list will be updated frequently, but feel free to contact support at killersupport@rivetnetworks.com if your question isn't addressed here:

Q: Will the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 work in a converter?
A: Yes. Please see this page - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/109-installing-the-killer-1550-with-an-m-2-to-pci-e-converter

Q: Will the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 work in my desktop mainboard's M.2 slot?
A: Most desktop mainboard M.2 slots are keyed for storage, not for Wi-Fi. You will need to refer to the manufacturer of your specific mainboard, but unless there was a Wi-Fi adapter pre-installed in the mainboard, the M.2 slot is very likely keyed for storage. In such cases, no Wi-Fi adapter will work in that slot. You will need to use an M.2 to PCI-E converter.

Q: Where can I buy the Killer Wireless-AC 1550?
A: The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is available as an integrated Wi-Fi adapter in Alienware, MSI, and many other high-end gaming laptops and other machines. You can also purchase the 1550 directly from Amazon at this link: https://smile.amazon.com/Killer-Wireless-AC-1550-Module-Dual/dp/B079LW5SPQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518720135&sr=8-1&keywords=killer+1550.

Q: I do not live in the USA. Where can I buy the Killer Wireless-AC 1550?
A: We are currently working toward making the 1550 available for purchase outside of the United States through that same Amazon link. Expected availability currently includes at least the UK. Other availability will be explored at a later time.

Q: Will the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 work in my machine?

A: The 1550 will fit in any machine that has an M.2 slot that is keyed for a Wi-Fi adapter. However, some machine manufacturers do use a BIOS whitelist to allow only certain hardware to be installed in their machines - usually the same hardware that was an option when the machine was released. Please check with your machine's manufacturer to make sure that your machine will recognize the 1550. You will also need to make sure that you can attach your antennas to IPEX-MHF4 receptacles, and that you rmachine's mainboard can power a 160 MHz M.2 Wi-Fi adapter. You can look up your current Wi-Fi adapter to see which antenna receptacles it uses to see if the 1550 will be a direct swap as far as the antenna connections. Also, please be aware that some recent machines have the wireless adapter soldered onto the board, making it impossible to change the adapter. As model numbers change continuously, we are unable keep up with exactly which machines are built this way, so your best bet is to open it up and take a look to make sure that the wireless adapter is not soldered down.

The two most common Wi-Fi formats are PCIe Half-Mini and M.2. Generally speaking, if you have a Wireless-N adapter, you probably have a PCIe Half-Mini slot, and if you have a Wireless-AC adapter, you probably have a Wi-Fi M.2 slot. There are exceptions out there, though, so if you are unable to find out any other way, you may want to just open the machine up and take a look. The following image should help you ascertain whether you have a PCIe Half-Mini slot or an M.2 slot:

PCIe Half-mini vs M.2

Q: How do I install the Killer Wireless-AC 1550?
A: Installation will be highly dependent on your particular machine. Please refer to your machine's specific service or teardown manual. You can also see the next question for some tips on handling the antenna connectors. 

Q: Will my machine's antenna work with the Killer Wireless-AC 1550?
A: The 1550 has two antenna connectors - one labeled MAIN and one labeled AUX. These are IPEX-MHF4 receptacles. You can look up your current Wi-Fi adapter to see which antenna receptacles it uses to see if the 1550 will be a direct swap as far as the antenna connections.This will avoid the nightmare scenario of the connectors breaking off of your old wireless adapter and getting stuck in your antenna leads. As these can be fragile, we (and I-PEX) highly recommend using an IPEX MHF4L 90609-0001 tool to remove the antenna connectors from your old wireless adapter, and push the connectors onto your new adapter. It also makes the whole job significantly simpler. If you are unable to obtain such a tool, be sure you pull the antenna leads straight up off of the connectors, to avoid breaking the connectors off of the card. Using a jeweler's or eyeglass repair screwdriver to very gently pull upward on the connector from beneath is best. When attaching antenna leads without a tool, try placing the adapter on a flat surface, lining the leads up on the receptacles, and then pressing down firmly, but gently, with a flat object, so that even pressure is applied. You should hear or feel a click when the the connector goes into place. Very little pressure is required so, if you find yourself pushing hard, you may be damaging the antenna connectors!

Q: My machine has 3 antenna leads while the 1550 only has 2 connectors. Will it work?
A: This will depend on what each of the 3 antenna leads for your specific machine are connected to. You will need to refer to your specific machine's service or teardown manual for that information.

Q: Are there Windows 7 or 8.1 drivers for the 1550?
A: No. The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 requires Windows 10.

Q: The Killer Wireless-AC 1535 advertises 5 GHz range extending. The 1550 does not. Does this mean that the 1535 has better range on 5 GHz than the 1535? 
A: In some cases, this is possible! The 1550 is a 160 MHz card, while the 1535 is an 80 MHz card, so if the wireless access point is a 160 MHz radio, the 1550 will definitely outperform the 1535. However, in 2018, there are still very few 160 MHz access points, so it is possible that the 1535 will have better range due to its range extending amplifiers. 



Internet Problems With New Computers With Killer 1550


Internet Problems With New Computers With Killer 1550

Some users may encounter issues with new computers with the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 installed. These issues can usually be resolved by clean-installing to the latest Killer Control Center. You can find the guide for this here - https://www.killernetworking.com/killersupport/driver-downloads/kb/faq/105-clean-install-the-killer-control-center.

If you are unable to download the software in the guide, click Settings in the Killer Control Center, and toggle Advanced Stream Detect to Off. This will temporarily disable all latency reducing and bandwidth prioritizing features from your Killer networking adapter, but should allow you to download the updated package. Once you have installed the updated Killer Control Center, Advanced Stream Detect will be activated by default. 

Linux Support


Linux Support

Most Killer Networking adapters work well with most Linux kernels without the need for any troubleshooting or setup. As there are many Linux distributions, and many variations of those distributions, some users may run into issues with compatibility and their networking adapter.

These are the drivers used by our networking adapters:

With the exception Killer Wireless-AC 1550 series, the drivers for all of our devices are community developed and supported. We neither develop nor support the Linux drivers for our devices, and this is common, as free and open source is the Linux way.

As such, if you encounter an issue with your Killer Networking adapter in Linux, your best, quickest, and most accurate line of support is going to be the community, either for the Linux distribution that you are using, or the driver itself. Our knowledge base contains some limited known information. These are things which we have discovered and posted in order to hopefully make things easier on our users. However, most problems will be specific to either the driver, the distribution, or even the version of the distribution that you are using.

Following are some links to installation tips for specific Linux distributions, which were offered by our users. Please note that, unless you see this note beside the link - Confirmed By Killer Support - these are links to various places in the community where others have offered up solutions to problems, which have been confirmed by other users. 

Linux Mint

Killer Wireless-AC 1550 install in Linux Mint - https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=272888 (Thanks JeremyB!)

Chromecast Issues With Killer Wireless-AC 1550


Chromecast Issues With Killer Wireless-AC 1550

Some users may experience issues when casting to a Chromecast device with their Killer Wireless-AC 1550. These issues can be resolved by following these steps:

  1. Click Start
  2. Type cmd and right-click Command Prompt and click Run as administrator
  3. In the Command Prompt window, type netsh and press Enter
  4. Type interface and press Enter
  5. Type ipv4 and press Enter
  6. Type or copy and paste set subinterface "Wi-Fi" mtu=1458 store=persistent and press Enter
  7. Close the command prompt window and test


Killer 1550 in Linux Debian/Ubuntu 16.04+


Killer 1550 in Debian/Ubuntu 16.04+

Some users have expressed a desire to use the Killer 1550 in Debian-based Linux. If your version of Linux does not support the Killer Wireless-1550 at install, and you are using Ubuntu 16.04 or later, or another version of Debian Linux, you can use this guide to backport the drivers from the latest version of Ubuntu/Debian, enabling the Killer 1550 in 16.04 or later. We have confirmed that this will result in wireless connectivity in Ubuntu 16.04 with the Killer Wireless-AC 1550. 

Please note that Secure Boot must be disabled in your BIOS before following these steps. If you are unsure how to disable Secure Boot, please refer to your machine or motherboard's support materials or website.

Type or copy and paste the following commands in a terminal:

$ sudo apt-get install git
$ git clone https://git.kernel.org/pub/scm/linux/kernel/git/iwlwifi/backport-iwlwifi.git
$ cd backport-iwlwifi
$ make defconfig-iwlwifi-public
$ sed -i 's/CPTCFG_IWLMVM_VENDOR_CMDS=y/# CPTCFG_IWLMVM_VENDOR_CMDS is not set/' .config
$ make -j4
$ sudo make install

Then restart. After the kernel update, you will need to run these commands in terminal:

$ cd backport-iwlwifi
$ make clean
$ make defconfig-iwlwifi-public
$ make -j4
$ sudo make install

Once this is done, you should be able to connect to your wireless access point.

Credit goes to Jeremy31 on StackExchange for the guide - https://askubuntu.com/questions/1016903/alienware-17-r4-ubuntu-16-04-wifi-driver

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.