TP-Link TL-WR841N Restarts When Killer 1435/1535 Connects

 

TP-Link TL-WR841N Restarts When Killer 1435/1535 Connects

Some users have experienced issues with the TP-Link TL-WR841N router restarting when the Killer Wireless-AC 1435 or 1535 connects to it. This is due to a bug in the router's firmware. If the latest available firmware from https://www.tp-link.com does not resolve the issue, multiple users have confirmed with us that they have been able to contact TP-Link support, who will provide them with a version of the firmware that resolves this issue. 

Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects

 

Wi-Fi Drops and Disconnects

Please note that this article is not meant to be followed step-by-step to completion. Instead, it's a list of suggestions that are known to be fixes for wireless drops and disconnects, with the most effective suggestions at the top. Once you find something that works, there is no need to read or implement the rest of this guide. 

Drops and disconnects are, unfortunately, still a part of using Wi-Fi Internet. They're frustrating, and they seem to happen at the worst, most annoying times, but with all of the different technology that has to come together to work correctly, it's surprising that Wi-Fi is generally very reliable! 

We want your Killer Wireless adapter to be the most reliable part of your Wi-Fi connection, so we have put together the steps that you can take, when you are encountering Wi-Fi drops, that are most likely to resolve the issue. Some of them are specific to our adapter, while some are more general. This is because, in our experience, most Wi-Fi disconnects are due more to the wireless environment than any specific wireless adapter. Here are the steps that our experience has shown are most likely to solve Wi-Fi disconnect issues:

  1. Update your Wi-Fi adapter's drivers to the latest available from our website. Click here for instructions on how to clean install the latest Killer Control Center that is appropriate for your Windows build. 
  2. Update your motherboard or machine's BIOS. This is especially true if you are using a laptop, as laptop manufacturer's are constantly releasing BIOS updates to address Wi-Fi issues. You can usually easily find the support downloads section for your specific machine or motherboard by using Google to search your machine's model number, followed by "downloads." Make sure you read the instructions before you flash the BIOS!
  3. Update your motherboard or machine's chipset drivers. These control resources within Windows. You can also find these on your support download page. If the manufacturer has not updated in a long time, you can also go straight to the chipset manufacturer (Intel or AMD) and get newer, but more generic chipset drivers. Your results may vary, with those.
  4. Reset your entire network and network stack using this guide - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/93-resetting-network-devices-and-network-stack. Even if you have done some of these things at various points, it's worth it to do all of them, in that order, to make sure everything is reset correctly.
  5. Make sure Windows install is completely updated by clicking Start, then type Update, click Check for Updates, click Check for Updates again, and let it install anything it finds. If it finds anything, restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart, then repeat the process. Do this until there are no updates just after a fresh restart. 
  6. If you are using any antivirus or firewall application, temporarily uninstall it, then restart your machine. Unfortunately, disabling these applications does not prevent them from manipulating network packets - they have to be temporarily uninstalled. If this resolves the issue, you may be able to simply reinstall the application using a freshly downloaded copy, and the disconnects may not return. If they do return, refer to the support team for that application. 
  7. Change your Wi-Fi adapter's power settings. You can find the step-by-step instructions for that here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/59-wi-fi-power-settings
  8. Check your Wi-Fi signal strength. You can see this in the Killer Control Center in the Wi-Fi Analyzer menu after clicking your Wi-Fi network (make sure to switch to 5 GHz if you are using a 5 GHz network, or 2.4 GHz if you are using a 2.4 GHz network). You will see "Signal Strength" appear at the bottom of the Killer Control Center. Anything below 80% and you are very likely to see drops and disconnects, especially when transferring large files or gaming. If the signal strength is below 80% when  you are in the same room as the access point, with clear line of sight between the laptop and the access point, then there is very likely something wrong with the machine's antennas. If you can't get 100% signal strength when within 5 feet of the wireless access point, then the issue is definitely an antenna issue. In this case, you will need to contact the machine manufacturer for repair or RMA options, unless you feel comfortable opening the machine and checking the antenna leads yourself. 
  9. Experiment with changing your Wi-Fi adapter's Device Manager settings. Try changing one setting at a time, then testing, to see if the change helped. To get to these, right-click Start, click Device Manager, double-click Network Adapters, double-click your wireless adapter, click the Advanced tab. Then, click the following settings in the "Property" box, and change their values in the "Value" box:
    1. Dynamic MIMO Power Save: Experiment with disabling 
    2. Preferred Band: If you know for certain that either 5 GHz (often Wireless-AC) or 2.4 GHz (often-Wireless-N) wireless signals should work better in your situation, you can try setting a preference here.
    3. Roaming Aggressiveness: This determines how quickly your wireless adapter will switch access points when there are multiple saved access points in range. If the aggressiveness is set too low, it is more likely to hang on to an access point with low signal strength, even if there is a better option available. If it is set too high, you will experience Wi-Fi drops if multiple nearby access points have similar signal strengths, as the adapter will switch between them often, disrupting the data flow. If you have multiple saved access points in range, this setting deserves tweaking and testing. 
    4. Wireless Mode: This dictates which types of wireless connections to which your adapter is allowed to connect. Generally speaking, this should be left to its highest available setting, such as 12 - 11 a/b/g/n/ac, which means the adapter will connect to Wireless-A, B, G, N, or Wireless-AC access points. However, some users have reported that, especially with older Wireless-N access points, restricting Wireless-AC adapters to 09 - 11 a/g/n has improved Wi-Fi reliability for them. If you are unlikely to encounter Wireless-AC access points and speeds, this is certainly worth exploring.  The only types of wireless connection that are currently in widespread use are Wireless N, AC, and, to a much lesser degree, Wireless-G. 
  10. If you are only experiencing problems with one network, and the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer shows that you have a signal strength of over 80, then the access point probably needs a firmware update.
    1. If this is your own home network, and you are using a router which you have purchased and connected to the modem that is provided by your Internet Service Provider, updating firmware is usually easily done. Refer to your specific router manufacturer’s instructions on doing this. If the router sports automatic firmware updating, don't trust it. Check the version that is loaded on the device against the current version available on the device's website. Very often, you'll find that you are not running the latest version, and that you will need to manually update.
    2. If this is your home network, and you are connecting wirelessly to the modem that is provided by your ISP, then you will need to contact your ISP and have them update your firmware. This is usually a quick click of a button and a small wait for their support team, but they will sometimes say that their modems update automatically. Ask them to please verify, by firmware version number, that your modem is using the most up-to-date firmware version. 
  11. One other thing you can try is the Windows Network Reset. This will reistall your adapter, and will reset many things that are not easily accessible otherwise. This will also reset all saved Wi-Fi networks, including their passwords, and will remove all associations with any virtual adapters. To use this, simply click Start, type Network Reset, click Network Reset, and follow the prompts until completion. 
  12. You should also investigate your wireless landscape. Many Wi-Fi drops and connection issues are due to radio conflicts. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer to determine which channels are least used on each band (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) and change your Wi-Fi router's settings accordingly. Here are some tips on which settings to choose:

    1. On the 2.4 GHz band, always choose Channels 1, 11, or 6. Try to pick the emptiest of the three, using the Wi-Fi Analyzer as your guide. Channels other than 1, 11, or 6 will receive more interference. European users can also use Channels 12 and 13 on the 2.4 GHz band. If you are in Europe, and your Killer Wireless device cannot see networks on Channels 12 and 13, please see this guide - http://killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/61-wi-fi-channels-12-and-13
    2. On the 5 GHz band, choose a channel that is as far away from other channels as possible. If you are experiencing Wi-Fi drops and you are using a DFS channel, (Channels 50-144 in the USA, other areas can be found on this chart), try changing to another 5 GHz channel and see if that improves the issue. 
    3. If you do have to share a channel, or if there are competing networks close to yours, set your sideband or side channel (the name of the setting will depend on your router manufacturer) to 20 MHz. This creates a tight, more powerful signal. Higher sidebands should only be considered if you have no Wi-Fi radio competition, but need the signal to get around solid objects. 
    4. If you have extenders, access points, or any other wireless routers, make sure they are operating on a different channel than your primary router. Even a single Wi-Fi router with multiple radios can conflict with itself if those radios are set to the same channel. 
    5. Do not depend on "auto" settings if you are experiencing problems. They are not always reliable, and will often switch to less desirable configurations.
    6. Consider that Wi-Fi is a line-of-sight radio technology. Each solid between the antenna of your wireless access point (router/modem) and your computer will diminish the signal. Repositioning things by inches can make a world of difference. 
    7. Try changing your channel width (some routers may call it sideband or side channel). This is another area where many routers are, by default, set to "auto", but don't do a very good job. The higher the channel width, the more data the stream can carry, making it potentially faster, and the more likely it is to get around solid objects. However, the signal will have overall less strength, and will be more prone to interference from other nearby channels. Depending your Wi-Fi landscape, it may be best to give up some channel width in order to get the extra strength and dodge interference, even if your router and adapter can handle higher channel widths.
      1. On the 5 GHz band, set the channel width to 40 MHz and see if that improves reliability. 
      2. On the 2.4 GHz band, set the channel width to 20 MHz and see if that improves reliability. 

If none of these solve the issue for you, please feel free to reach out to support by clicking Contact Support under Support at the top of the website.  

How to Update or Install The Killer Control Center

2.0 

Updating or Installing The Killer Control Center

The Killer Control Center installers contain drivers for the Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500. The Killer Control Center can be installed on any system with one, or multiples of these network adapters.

Only the non-UWD version of the Killer Control Center that is downloaded from our website is compatible with our Wireless-N adapters - the Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103.

 The Killer Control Center cannot be installed on machines with the E2100, Xeno Pro, 2100, M1, or K1. These are legacy devices that are no longer supported, and no longer receive driver updates. 

Click here to jump to troubleshooting steps.

The first step in updating or installing the Killer Control Center is download the correct installer package. There are currently two different Killer Control Center installers:

Choosing the Correct Installer

Those using a Killer Wireless-N adapter, Windows 7, Windows 8.1, and any older build of Windows 10 prior to 1803 (April 2018 Update) should use our website installer - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64

Those using Windows 10 1803 (April 2018 Update) or later should use the UWD installer, as long as they are not using a Wireless-N adapter - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/kcc-uwd

Please note that the UWD installer is fully compatible with the E2200, E2400, E2500, Killer Wireless-AC 1525, 1435, 1535, 1550, and 1550i adapters, as well as all of our forthcoming adapters in 2018 and beyond.

Wireless xTend, a new feature of ours, is only compatible with the 1550, and will only appear if you use the UWD installer and have a 1550 installed.

If you are using Windows 10, and you are unsure which version you are running, you can find out by clicking Start, then typing winver and pressing Enter. A box will appear, which will give you information about Windows, including the version number. 

For more details on the differences between the two packages, please see this article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/100-which-killer-control-center-should-i-install

Once you know which version to download, and have downloaded it, double-click the installer to install both the latest drivers for your Killer devices, and the latest version of the Killer Control Center. 

If all goes well, you can stop here. 

Errors or Other Issues When Installing

If you encounter any errors or problems when installing, first try uninstalling all versions of the Killer Software that are currently on your machine. We have developed a tool to make this very simple. Please follow the steps below:

  1. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe (please note that this is not the old Killer Remover tool - this is much more comprehensive)
  2. Make sure you have the installer for the Killer Control Center that you will be installing. Return here if you aren't sure. 
  3. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  4. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. There are two buttons - one for scanning, one for uninstalling. You do not have to scan. The scan might not find any software installations, but there may still be services installed on your machine that are preventing the installation of the current suite. Regardless of what the scan says, if you are having issues installing, make sure you click Remove Killer Software. When it is finished, it will say "RESTART REQUIRED"
  5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  6. Once your machine has completed restarting, run the installer for the Killer Control Center. 

If you are still unable to install the Killer Control Center, please try using Microsoft's tool for fixing problems that block programs from being installed or removed. You can find our guide for using this tool here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/90-microsoft-tool. This tool is very effective because, if you are still having problems by this point, the issue is very likely caused by files that have been shuffled around during a Windows Update. 

If the Microsoft Tool does not solve the issue, please submit a ticket to our support, along with an install log for us to analyze, by following these steps:

  1. Run the installer for the Killer Control Center one more time, so as to create the most recent possible information in the install log.
  2. After the installer fails, access your TEMP folder by clicking Start, then typing %TEMP%, then pressing Enter.
  3. Arrange the files in that folder by "Date Modified" so that the most recently modified files are at the top.
  4. You will see many files. Find the most recent file that begins with MSI and ends with .LOG. Move or copy that file to a place you will remember.
  5. Click Support > Contact Support at the top of our website, and be sure to click the folder and attach that .LOG file. In your ticket, please also mention any errors that you might have seen when attempting to install the Killer Control Center. 

Which Killer Control Center Should I Install?

5.0 

Which Killer Control Center Should I Install?

Users may notice that we often host more than one version of the Killer Control Center available for download from our website. This article will summarize the difference between the versions available, and hopefully give the user an idea of which installer they should download and use. 

A note on the Killer Network Manager - The Killer Network Manager is our deprecated performance suite. It does not contain current drivers. Users are free to use the Killer Network Manager if they like, but, as it is no longer in development, the first step in troubleshooting should be to uninstall the Killer Network Manager and install the Killer Control Center.
A note on finding your Windows version number - You will see Windows version numbers referenced in the following information. You can find your Windows version by clicking Start, then type winver and press Enter. You will see a box with information about your Windows install, including the Version, which is probably 1709 or 1803, as of June 5 2018. 
A note on device compatibility  -  The E2100, 2100, K1, M1, and Xeno Pro are legacy devices, and no longer receive driver updates. They are not supported with either of these packages.

The current Killer Control Center versions are as follows, as of August 3, 2018:

 

Killer Software Package - for Windows 10 1803+

Release Notes

 

Device Compatibility: Killer Ethernet E2200, E2205, E2400, E2500 / Killer Wireless-AC 1550, 1435, 1535, 1525 

OS Compatibility: Windows 10 Build 1803 April 2018 Update and Later Only

What is this? This version is a major update. This is our most recent release, which has been tested primarily with, and optimized for Windows 10 version 1803 (April 2018 Update). This package contains the latest drivers for all current Killer Networking devices, as well as the Killer Control Center performance suite. A Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is not required. The installer will first install device drivers, and then redirect to the Windows Store to install the Killer Control Center software. Please note that the version number listed here is the version of the installer. The version of the Killer Control Center that the Windows Store installs will be different. 

What's new from the previous release? A new, updated driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, the debut release of Wireless xTend for Killer 1550, and many other minor enhancements that are too numerous to list. Wireless xTend for Killer 1550 allows owners of the Killer 1550 to turn their machines into wireless access points, xTending the range of the currently connected wireless network through their computer. 

Who should use this?  All currently supported Killer Networking adapter users who are using Windows 10 version 1803 (April 2018 Update), except those using Wireless-N adapters. Those using the Windows Insider Preview versions of Windows 10 are also encouraged to use this version, and provide us with any feedback, should you encounter any issues.

What if this will not install?  Click here for troubleshooting steps. If you are unable to install this version, please try installing version 1.5.1859 above after submitting your install log. It is important that you submit your install log before installing 1.5.1859, or the install log will reflect the results of that install instead of reflecting the results of your attempted install of the UWD version.

Special conditions for this release: This version will install on versions of Windows 10 that are older than version 1803 (April 2018 Update), but many things will not function well. We highly recommend installing this version only on Windows 10 version 1803. 

 

Killer Control Center 64-bit - for Windows 7, 8.1 & older Windows 10 versions

Release Notes

Device Compatibility: Killer Ethernet E2200, E2205, E2400, E2500 / Killer Wireless-AC 1550, 1435, 1535, 1525 / Killer Wireless-N 1102,1103,1202

OS Compatibility: Windows 10 (all builds), Windows 8.1, Windows 7

What is this? This is our previous release, which was well tested and troublefree on Windows builds 1709 (Fall Creator's Update) and 1803 (April 2018 Update). This package contains the latest drivers for all Killer Networking devices, except for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, as well as the Killer Control Center performance suite. The included driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is not known to be problematic, but our other package includes a more recent driver for this device. 

What's new from the previous release? A new, updated driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550. 

Who should use this?  All Killer Network adapter owners who are using Windows 7 and Windows 8.1, as well as those using Windows 10, who have not yet updated to Version 1803 (Windows Spring Update), or who would prefer to not install the Killer Control Center through the Windows Store. Also, any Killer Wireless-N network adapter users. 

What if this will not install? Click here for troubleshooting steps

Special conditions for this release: Unlike the other package, this release uses a regular installer, and does not go through the Windows Store.

 

Errors When Installing

There have been many reports of issues with the Killer Control Center which can be resolved by performing a clean install of the Killer Control Center, as opposed to an update install, where the latest version is installed while an older version is in place. When troubleshooting, this is a good place to start. Here are the steps to perform a clean install of the Killer Control Center:

  1. Make sure you have the current installer handy to install. 
  2. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe
  3. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  4. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. It is not necessary to scan, and the scan may not find anything. Regardless, click Remove Killer Software, and give it some time to run. When it is finished, it will say "RESTART REQUIRED."
  5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  6. Once your machine has booted back up, access  your temporary files folder and delete the contents
    1. Click Start
    2. Type %temp% and press Enter. Your temp folder should open.
    3. Delete all files in the temp folder. These are all temporary install files, and are safe to delete. If you receive a prompt saying that a file cannot be deleted, you can safely select Skip All
    4. Close the temp folder
  7. Run the installer that you downloaded for the Killer Control Center. Follow the prompts to complete the installation. 
  8. Restart your machine if the installer requested a restart.
  9. Test to see if the issue is resolved.

If you are unable to resolve the issue with a clean install, please contact support so that we can help you out!

 

Internet Problems With New Computers

4.0 

Internet Problems With New Computers

This article only applies to brand new computers using Windows 10.

Some users may experience issues with brand new computers with Killer Network adapters and the Killer Control Center or Killer Network Manager preinstalled. 

These issues are often caused by Windows automatically updating to the latest version of the operating system without giving the user the chance to update any preinstalled software or device drivers. This results in software, which was likely up to date at the time the machine was boxed by the manufacturer, running on a version of the operating system on which it was never tested, and may not be able to operate on correctly.

If the user notices that, after Windows has updated, their Internet performance is severely degraded, or they see bluescreen errors that are attributed to our software or drivers, they should uninstall the Killer Control Center or Killer Network Manager, make sure Windows is fully updated, and then install the latest version of the Killer Control Center

Here is the step-by-step:

  1. Right-click Start
  2. Click Apps and Features
  3. Find "Killer Performance Driver Suite" or any variation or variations, and uninstall it or them, restarting when required. 
  4. If a restart was not requested, restart your machine now by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Avoid using the power button on your computer, as it is likely mapped to sleep the machine, which will not work for this purpose.
  5. Windows 10 will install a basic set of drivers. This does not include any of the latency reducing and bandwidth prioritizing features of your Killer networking adapter, but it will serve to let you update everything. The only exceptions are the Killer Wireless-AC 1535 and the Killer Wireless-AC 1550.
    1. There may not be a built-in driver in Windows 10 for the 1535 if the machine is still on the original release build of Windows 10 when the user uninstalls the Killer Control Center. This is unlikely, as you will likely not have access to uninstall anything before Windows has updated itself well beyond this point. 
    2. The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 was released in 2018 and, as such, no version of Windows 10 previous to this time will have built-in drivers. 
  6. Make sure your BIOS and chipset drivers, at least, are up to date from your machine manufacturer's support site. 
  7. Make sure Windows 10 is fully up to date. To do this:
    1. Click Start
    2. Type Windows Update and press Enter
    3. Click Check for Updates
    4. Let your computer install whatever updates it finds. 
    5. Once it is finished, restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart, even if it has not asked you to do so.
    6. Repeat steps A through E until your machine finds no updates just after restarting.
  8. Download the latest Killer Control Center package, which also contains the latest drivers for your Killer network adapters - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and double-click to install. 
  9. If you notice any issues with your Bluetooth, and you have a Killer Wireless adapter (Killer 1435, 1535, 1525, 1550) download and install the latest Bluetooth driver from our website - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/category/bluetooth.
  10. If your wireless access point (router or modem) seems to struggle with a new Killer Wireless adapter, either slowing down, restarting, or freezing, please first try unplugging the access point and plugging it back in. If that does not resolve the issue, the device likely needs a firmware update. For a wireless router that you own, please see the support for our specific device. For a wireless modem that is owned by your ISP, please contact your ISP and request that they update the firmware on your modem. 
  11. If you have a wireless router that continues to reset when the 1535 connects to it, even after you have updated the firmware, please see this article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/35-router-issues-with-1535.

If you encounter any further issues with your Killer adapters, please do not hesitate to contact us directly!

 

Wi-Fi or Bluetooth Missing

3.0 

Bluetooth or Wi-Fi Missing

Note: This guide can be used in the event of any M.2 device vanishing from the Device Manager. The procedure lists Killer devices specifically, but the phenomenon is widespread among M.2 devices and Windows 10, and these same steps can be used to restore functionality when any M.2 device disappears from Device Manager.

When this occurs, it is an issue of the BIOS or the operating system not enumerating the device properly. In very rare situations, it can be cause by some kind of physical trauma causing the device to become dislodged, or the device failing, but more often than not, the hardware is just fine. It’s just a matter of getting Windows or, sometimes, the BIOS, to see it again. Sometimes the device will be missing altogether, or sometimes it will be grayed out - the difference is only in whether your Device Manager is set to show devices that are no longer present in the machine. Either way, the Device Manager thinks that the device is gone, and that is what needs to be addressed.

  • First off, if the issue is that your Bluetooth is missing, but your Wi-Fi device is still present in Device Manager, make sure that you do not have any USB devices disabled. The internal Bluetooth adapter is actually a USB device, so if there are any USB devices disabled in your Device Manager, for any reason, this can cause the Bluetooth device to vanish. If you are unable to enable the USB device, then you should resolve that issue first. This includes USB Hub devices, or any devices under the Universal Serial Bus controllers category in Device Manager that show any errors, for any reason. On some platforms, this is the #1 cause of Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapters mysteriously vanishing from the Device Manager. Once you have resolved the USB issue, restart your machine, and check to see if the missing device has reappeared in your Device Manager. If you have recently plugged anything new into a USB port on your machine, unplug it and see if the error goes away in Device Manager. That USB device may be malfunctioning.  If there is nothing to remove, try these steps:
    • Right-click on the entry and click Enable, if applicable. If the only option is Disable, then the entry was already enabled.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Update Driver > Search Automatically for Updated Driver.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Uninstall Device > Uninstall, and then restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
    • Visit your machine or mainboard's support page and update your BIOS, chipset drivers, and USB drivers (if listed). 
    • Discharging the machine can also be helpful in clearing USB error codes. 

USB Error

Once you no longer have any disabled USB devices, the Bluetooth device should show back up. 

  • If you do not have any disabled USB devices, or any with errors, or if you have resolved that issue and the Wi-Fi or Bluetooth adapter has not reappeared in the Device Manager, then you will still need to update your chipset drivers, and possibly your machine or mainboard’s BIOS, if you haven't already. We have noted that some platforms have chipset drivers that are buggy enough that they absolutely will experience this issue if their chipset drivers are not updated. You will need to obtain these drivers from your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support download page. You can usually find this page by going to the main website for your machine or mainboard manufacturer and looking under "Support", or by using your preferred search engine to search for your specific model, then selecting the result that leads to your machine or mainboard manufacturer's website. Once you have found the support downloads page, if you cannot tell which drivers are the chipset drivers, it is generally recommended that you simply update all of the offered drivers, except for the Killer Network card drivers, which you should get from us, as they are likely more recent. If there is a BIOS update available, then updating the BIOS is also recommended, especially if the BIOS update notes mention anything that might pertain to this situation. Make certain that you at least update the chipset and USB drivers, if applicable. Some platforms combine the USB drivers into the chipset drivers, so you may not see a separate download. Once you have done these updates, restart the machine, and see if the missing device reappears in the Device Manager.
  • Depending on what is available, the best order in which to update is as follows:
    1. Update your BIOS from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    2. Update your chipset drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    3. Update the USB drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page.  If none are listed, they are probably rolled into the chipset driver. 
    4. Update all other drivers available from your machine or mainboard's support page, except Killer Networking and Bluetooth drivers, which you should get from us.
    5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  • Windows itself can also play a part in the disappearing device. The Anniversary Update saw many such devices vanish, so much so that the Creator’s Update added a Bluetooth troubleshooter to Windows 10. Make sure that your Windows installation is up to date by using Windows Search to search Windows Update

    windows update

    then press Enter, and click Check for Updates

  • Once it has downloaded and installed everything it finds, restart the machine, and repeat this process until Windows Update finds no updates directly after restarting. Once this happens, check to see if the device has reappeared in the Device Manager. If this doesn’t help, and the issue is Bluetooth related, you can try troubleshooting using Windows built-in troubleshooter. Microsoft has instructions here - https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/14169/windows-10-fix-bluetooth-problems-faq
  • Discharging the machine - If the device is still missing from the Device Manager, then that means that it isn’t the chipset drivers (or at least it isn’t only the chipset drivers) that is not properly enumerating the device, but rather the BIOS itself. In this case, you will need to discharge the machine to force the BIOS to re-enumerate all of its hardware (instructions below). Before you do this, make sure that you have updated the BIOS to the latest version, from the mainboard or machine manufacturer’s website, so that you address the flaw that caused this issue in the first place. Once that BIOS update is in place, and you have confirmed that the machine has booted back up, but the device is still not appearing in Device Manager, shut the machine back down, and unplug it from the wall. You will now need to fully discharge the machine.
    • If this is a desktop, you will need to remove the side panel, discharge yourself of static electricity on something metal (your computer’s case might work, or possibly your desk) and look for the CMOS battery. It is a large coin-cell battery. Remove that battery. Sometimes it’s easier with a flathead screwdriver, but it should be fairly simple to remove. Once you have removed that battery, press the power button on the machine 2-3 times to completely discharge it, then replace the CMOS battery and the case. If you are not comfortable doing this on your own, please refer to your mainboard or machine's support. 
    • If this is a laptop, hopefully it is one where you can easily remove the battery. This will be specific to your model of laptop, so you may need to refer to your owner’s manual, or your laptop’s support website. Some MSI models are held in with a single screw. If you are able to remove the laptop battery, do so, and then press the laptop’s power button a few times to fully discharge it.
    • If this is a laptop, but you are unable to remove the battery, or would prefer not to, you can discharge the machine through usage, instead. Unplug the laptop from the electric outlet, and temporarily change the power plan to a setting that does not allow it to sleep when the battery is low, then run the laptop until it discharges itself and will no longer power on. Once it has discharged itself, press the power button a few times to make sure it is fully discharged.
    • Once you have a fully discharged machine, put it back together, plug it back in, and let it boot in to Windows. You may see a message mentioning setting the BIOS to defaults, or something along those lines. This is nothing to be alarmed about – simply confirm that you want it set to defaults, unless you had set custom settings, in which case, you will need to re-set those custom settings. In the future, this message may be a warning that your CMOS or laptop battery is dead or on its last legs, but for now, we know that you discharged the machine on purpose, so we can safely ignore this warning. Once you are booted back in to Windows, check the Device Manager to make sure that the missing Wi-Fi or Bluetooth device is no longer missing.
  • In some very rare cases, the device may not show up because the machine was not fully discharged. We have had users report that they were able to repeat the steps to discharge their machines a second time, and have had success after that. Once the updates were in place, and the devices shows up, that is usually the end of the problem.

One final step that you can take, if you are willing and able to do so, is to physically reseat your Wi-Fi adapter. The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth device are on the same card, so there is only one adapter to reseat, and reseating this adapter only requires that you remove one screw, slide it out of the slot, then slide it back in and screw it back down, being careful not to dislodge or damage the attached antenna leads. However, the difficulty in getting to this adapter and performing this step will vary depending on your machine or mainboard, and your level of expertise. You may wish to consult with your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support at this point. If you have followed all of the other steps, and the device still has not reappeared, the device, or the mainboard, may also be physically damaged, and in need of repair, which would also necessitate contacting your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support for RMA or repair options.  

Wi-Fi Adapter Disabling

5.0 

There are a few things that can cause your Wi-Fi adapter to disable itself, but, unfortunately they don't really make themselves known up front. Here are some steps you can try to correct the issue:

If you have done all of the above, but still find that your Wi-Fi adapter is disabling itself, please contact us directly so that we may assist you further!

Slow Network Speeds

4.0 

Slow Network Speeds

If you are experiencing slow Internet or network speeds, you can follow this troubleshooting guide to address and correct the most common problems. 

If you haven't already, please try installing the latest Killer Control Center from our website, and only from our website. It includes many fixes and improvements that are not be included in other packages. If you are still using the Killer Network Manager, you'll want to download the Killer Control Center, and then manually uninstall the Killer Network Manager, as well as the "Killer Drivers" entry in your programs list. You can find the latest Killer Control Center here: https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/22-update-killer-control-center

Once you have successfully updated your drivers, you will want to restart your computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. It is important to note that closing the lid or pressing the power button on many modern computers does not shut them down, but instead activates sleep mode. You must restart them by clicking Start > Power > Restart for them to restart.

If updating the drivers does not solve the issue, try resetting your networking equipment in this specific order, even if you have reset your some or all of your equipment previously. This order is proven to help your devices sync up properly, and will help to get a clean slate with further troubleshooting. Doing this can help even if only one device is experiencing problems. 

  1. Shut down your computer.
  2. Locate your modem and note the lights on your modem when it is normal and ready. There may be a "Ready" light.
  3. Unplug your modem, router, and any switches or hubs, between your computer and the modem, as well as any wireless boosters or access points, and leave them all unplugged for now.
  4. Plug in your modem.
  5. Wait until your modem's lights show normal operation again.
  6. Plug in your router, if you have one, and give it about five minutes to boot.
  7. Plug in anything else between your computer and the modem
  8. Power on your computer.
  9. Once your computer is booted and connected to the Internet, you will want to reset its network stack:
    1. In the search box on the taskbar, type Command prompt, right-click Command prompt, and then select Run as administrator > Yes.
    2. At the command prompt, run the following commands in the listed order, and then check to see if that fixes your connection problem:
      • Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter.
      • Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter.
      • Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter.
  10. Now reboot your machine once more and test to see if the issue is resolved.

If not, the next step is to make sure that your Windows installation is completely up to date. Microsoft has been updating Windows more often than with any previous release, so it's important to keep things up to date. To do this, simply search Windows Updates, hit Enter, and then click Check for Updates. If your machine finds updates, check again once it finishes installing. Once your machine finds no updates, restart again, and then check for updates once more. Once your machine finds no updates upon a fresh reboot, your Windows installation should be fully up to date.

If you have performed the above, and you are still experiencing issues with slow network speeds, there are some other things to try:

  • Set a benchmark. Place the device in one place, if dealing with Wi-Fi, and run a test using one speed test. Turn off all other network usage while troubleshooting. Speedtest.net and Testmy.net are both good bandwidth tests. Run three tests in short succession and record an average as your starting point. Test after each change to see if there has been improvement. Record what you changed, and what the speeds the change produced. If the change seems dramatic, restart the machine and test again to be sure. 
  • Make sure your BIOS is up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure your chipset drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure all of the other drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page. You can safely download and install all available driver packages. If the driver does not apply, it will either not install, or will not be used. If the only options in a driver installer package are "Repair" or "Uninstall", choosing "Repair" will update the driver, if there is a newer driver available.
  • Update the firmware on your router if you own the router.
  • Update the firmware on your modem if you own the modem, but only if your ISP accepts the firmware. Your ISP's support team can help you with this. Some ISPs also have this information listed somewhere, but they may need to do something on their end if you update the firmware, in order to re-authorize your modem. 
  • Have your ISP update the firmware on your modem or router if they own your modem or router.
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, minimize the number of solid objects between the access point's antenna and the device suffering from low speeds, using line-of-sight. Moving a device or antenna even an inch to one side could bypass multiple solid objects, making an enormous difference. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to make changes to your router's settings. 
    • 5 GHz routers should be set to channels 36-48, and/or 149-165 that are as far away from other channels as possible.
    • 2.4 GHz routers should be set to channels 1, 6, or 11, depending on which channels have the least powerful conflicting radios present.
    • Sideband, or side channel should be set to 20 MHz if there are many other Wi-Fi access points in your area, especially if you are forced to share a channel. Higher side channels are less powerful, but provide a wider band, allowing the signal to get around solid objects better, theoretically improving performance in situations where there are no interference concerns, but the Wi-Fi signal needs to "get around" solid objects. Many, however, report that, in real life testing, 20 MHz still provides the better signal, so your mileage may vary. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi and your router has both a 5 GHz radio and a 2.4 GHz radio, name them something different. Although it might seem simpler to name them the same thing, many routers do not handle this very well, and you can see performance issues by having them named the same thing. Many people opt to simply add "5" to the end of the 5 GHz radio. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi extenders, name each of your extenders something different, so that you know which access point you are connected to. Wi-Fi extenders have limited radio capacity, and will, always provide at least slightly slower speeds than connecting directly to the router, as they have to use the same radio to receive and transmit, at the same time. 
  • If it seems like other machines using the same access point are having no issues, try to verify this. Borrow their machine and run a speed test. Ask for permission first, of course. If you are experiencing issues on a public access point, you might just find that the public access point is just terrible, and that no one else is having a problem because you're the only one playing latency-intensive first person shooters. 
  • If you are using a Wireless-N router in a crowded Wi-Fi environment, you are very likely to encounter drops and speed issues no matter what settings you change. Unfortunately, the 2.4 GHz spectrum is very limited on how many channels are available, and conflicts arise quickly. Updating to a Wireless-AC router may be required to increase your speeds and reduce wireless drops. 
  • If you are using an antivirus or firewall application, try completely uninstalling it for testing purposes. Unfortunately, simply disabling these programs do not work for troubleshooting purposes, as they often continue to manipulate network traffic. They must be fully uninstalled. If you notice that your speeds increase dramatically with the antivirus or firewall application uninstalled, try installing a freshly downloaded version from their website. If that doesn't help, then the issue may be one with the antivirus application itself. In that case, you will want to contact the support team for the antivirus application. 

If you are unable to get your speed issues sorted out using the above tips, feel free to contact us directly using the information below! 

 

How to Update or Install The Killer Network Manager

4.0 

Updating or Installing The Killer Network Manager

The Killer Network Manager is our outgoing performance suite. It is no longer being updated, and does not contain the latest Ethernet or Wi-Fi drivers. We encourage all users of the Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500 to upgrade to the Killer Control Center, found here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64. This includes users whose machines came with the Killer Network Manager preinstalled. There is no need to continue using the Killer Network Manager. 

For a smooth installation, download the latest Killer Control Center installation package, then uninstall all Killer products from your Apps and Features menu, which is accessible by right-clicking Start, then restart your computer, and double-click the new installation package to install the new Killer Control Center.

If you have any further issues installing the Killer Control Center, or uninstalling the Killer Network Manager, please see this troubleshooting article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/6-troubleshooting-killer-ethernet-wireless-drivers-software.

The old Killer Network Manager suite is still available for download here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/e2200-e2400-wireless - but will no longer be updated, and may not be fully compatible with future Windows updates, antivirus suites, or other applications that manipulate network data. 

Bluetooth Issues

 

Some users may experience issues with Bluetooth devices. These issues may include, but are not limited to:

  • Unable to discover any devices
  • Unable to discover the devices you wish to use
  • Unable to pair with devices
  • Devices pair but do not work correctly
  • Devices pair and work correctly but intermittently
  • Devices pair and work correctly but disconnect intermittently

The first thing to do is to make sure you have the latest Bluetooth driver installed. Bluetooth drivers for Killer devices are not included in any other package, and must be downloaded and installed separately. They can be found here - http://killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/category/bluetooth. Once you have run the installer for the Bluetooth driver, check to make sure that the latest driver has been installed. You can do this by following these steps:

  1. Right-click Start
  2. Click Device Manager
  3. Double-click Bluetooth
  4. Locate your Bluetooth adapter, which should be labeled Qualcomm (something something) Bluetooth 4.1. See image below.



  5. Right-click on your Bluetooth adapter and click Properties, and click the Driver tab. Make sure that the number beside Driver Version corresponds with the current Driver Version listed in the Bluetooth download page for your device. See below image. Note that this image only highlights the location of the driver version number. Do not compare the number to this image - compare to the current version on the download page.

    Bluetooth Driver Version

  6. If the correct driver version number is not displayed, you may have to install the Bluetooth driver manually. Please see this guide - http://killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/49-installing-bluetooth-drivers-from-device-manager
  7. Once the Bluetooth driver is up to date, restart your machine by clicking Power > Start > Restart, then test to see if the issue is resolved.

If the issue is not resolved, then the problem could be due to a variety of causes. Found below are the most common fixes for Bluetooth problems, which we update regularly:

  • Update your BIOS from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Update your chipset driver from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Update the drivers for any other device on your machine that uses any kind of wireless technology, as it may be interfering with your Bluetooth device. For example, if your machine is equipped with Thunderbolt 
  • If you have a dual-band Wi-Fi connection, use the 5 GHz connection instead of the 2.4 GHz connection. Bluetooth operates on the 2.4 GHz band, and 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi can cause interference with Bluetooth.
  • In your Wi-Fi router or modem's settings page, change the sideband or side channel of your 2.4 GHz radio to 20 MHz. This creates a tighter radio wave that is less likely to cause interference to other 2.4 GHz devices.
  • Change your Wi-Fi router or modem's 2.4 GHz channel. Try to stick to Channels 1, 11, or 6. Use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer to see which channel has the least interference. If you are already on that channel, switch to the next least interference, and see if that improves your Bluetooth issues. 
  • If you have any USB wireless devices on connected to your machine, try unplugging them and see if that improves your Bluetooth issues. If it does, try moving the USB dongle to a different USB port, as far away from the original port as possible. 
  • Some monitors and LCD displays and televisions can cause interference with higher 2.4 GHz channels. If you are experiencing issues near such a device, try changing the 2.4 GHz channel on your wireless router to 1 or 6 to free up as much space as possible in the upper bands, to reduce interference. 
  • Poorly shielded cabling for external devices, especially high powered devices like hard drives or external media readers and writers, can cause radio interference. If the issue is especially prevalent when using such devices, try replacing the cables.  

There are many other things that can cause wireless interference. If you are experiencing otherwise unresolved Bluetooth issues, either try to avoid being physically near these potential contributors to interference, or take measures to increase and improve shielding, to decrease interference. 

  • Microwave ovens
  • Cabling and connectors for Direct Satellite Service (DSS) (If these are old, consider replacing them)
  • Poorly shielded power lines in the wall
  • 2.4 GHz cordless phones (these may have a channel switch on them - try changing it) 
  • Wireless RF security video recorders
  • Wireless speakers (for computer or otherwise)
  • Any other wireless device, such as microwave transmitters, wireless cameras, baby monitors, or even a neighbor's Wi-Fi device, if you live in close proximity, where their Wi-Fi device may be just on the other side of the wall, can potentially cause enough interference on the 2.4 GHz band to completely disable Bluetooth.

The Bluetooth standard is usually very good at finding a space in which to operate, regardless of interference, and the vast majority of the time, it does this without any user interaction. Unfortunately, though, sometimes there is just too much interference, or the interference unbalances the 2.4 GHz wavelength in such a way, that it is impossible to make a connection. You will never eliminate all sources of interference. There are just too many devices that are constantly bombarding the 2.4 GHz band, which is why the 5 GHz band was introduced for Wi-Fi. The goal in troubleshooting Bluetooth interference is to eliminate enough interference for the Bluetooth adapter to be able to find a spot with which to make a good connection. 

If you are unable to eliminate causes of Bluetooth interference, it is possible to increase shielding. Metal, concrete, and plaster are all very good at reflecting and/or absorbing radio waves, as is brick, to a lesser degree, so consider that when relocating your machine to move away from any interference. 

Ad-Hoc and Hotspot Functionality with Killer Adapters in Windows 10

5.0 

Ad-Hoc and Hotspot Functionality with Killer Adapters in Windows 10

You may wish to create an Ad-Hoc or Hotspot network with your Killer Adapter on your Windows 10 machine.

With Windows 10, all Ad-Hoc and Hotspot functionality has been officially moved away from the drivers, and into the operating system itself.

If you would like to create a Hotspot or Ad-Hoc network with Windows 10, you simply need to click Start, type Hotspot, and press Enter. All of the relevant settings for your Hotspot network will be on that page.

Hotspot Settings
With Windows 10, this is the current official limit of Hotspot or Ad-Hoc functionality.

The Windows 10 version of our driver does not support the "Hosted Network" feature because Microsoft's own WDI driver does not have support for this. Microsoft is having all wireless vendors move to the WDI model, thus this feature will not work on Windows 10 drivers until after (and if) Microsoft expands support for SoftAP/Wi-Fi Direct.

In the meantime, if you need this feature back for certain older applications that made use of their own Hotspot or Ad-Hoc features, you can load the Windows 8.1 drivers via Device Manager from our INF download. We have verified that this works, and have had confirmation from other users as well.

http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-drivers-inf

For our guide on loading .INF drivers manually in Device Managers, see here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/10-installing-drivers-device-manager

However, we cannot guarantee that Windows Update will not automatically update these drivers, or that they will work flawlessly with Windows 10, as they are, after all, Windows 8.1 drivers. Use Windows 8.1 drivers in Windows 10 at your own risk.

Unfortunately, as the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 only has Windows 10 drivers, this workaround will not work for the 1550.

Issues When Installing Windows 7 Drivers

5.0 

Users may encounter errors when installing drivers in Windows 7. This can be resolved by installing an update to Windows 7 that enables SHA-2 code signing in Windows 7, allowing the older operating system to use the newer device drivers. If allowed to fully update, Windows Update should install this update for you automatically. However, if you are unable to connect to the Internet, you may need to use a USB thumb drive, or some other media, to install this update on the machine on which you wish to install Windows 7. You can read more, and find the appropriate update for your situation here - https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/security-updates/SecurityAdvisories/2015/3033929

Windows Server Drivers

 

Windows Server Drivers

From time to time, we receive requests for Windows Server compatible drivers for our network adapters. Although we do not provide package installers for Windows Server editions, our drivers are Windows WHQL certified, and as such will work with recent Windows Server editions, so long as they are installed manually from the Device Manager using our .INF files.

You can download the .INF files from this location - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-drivers-inf

If you need assistance manually installing the .INF files using Device Manager, you can follow our guide here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/10-installing-drivers-device-manager

If you encounter an error when installing the .INF drivers for a wireless adapter, you may need to enable wireless networking in your Windows Server. This applies to all Windows Server editions, 2008 and beyond. To do this:

  1. Access Powershell from your administrator account
  2. Type Install-WindowsFeature -Name Wireless-Networking and press Enter. You should receive a confirmation that the service is installed, and a warning that the machine needs to be restarted.
  3. Type Restart-Computer to restart.
  4. Once the machine has restarted, access Powershell from your administrator account again. 
  5. Type net start wlansvc to start the wireless networking service.
  6. The .INF drivers should now install normally.

The Killer Control Center is not availalbe on Windows Server editions. 

Linux Support

4.5 

Linux Support

Most Killer Networking adapters work well with most Linux kernels without the need for any troubleshooting or setup. As there are many Linux distributions, and many variations of those distributions, some users may run into issues with compatibility and their networking adapter.

These are the drivers used by our networking adapters:

With the exception Killer Wireless-AC 1550 series, the drivers for all of our devices are community developed and supported. We neither develop nor support the Linux drivers for our devices, and this is common, as free and open source is the Linux way.

As such, if you encounter an issue with your Killer Networking adapter in Linux, your best, quickest, and most accurate line of support is going to be the community, either for the Linux distribution that you are using, or the driver itself. Our knowledge base contains some limited known information. These are things which we have discovered and posted in order to hopefully make things easier on our users. However, most problems will be specific to either the driver, the distribution, or even the version of the distribution that you are using.

Following are some links to installation tips for specific Linux distributions, which were offered by our users. Please note that, unless you see this note beside the link - Confirmed By Killer Support - these are links to various places in the community where others have offered up solutions to problems, which have been confirmed by other users. 

Linux Mint

Killer Wireless-AC 1550 install in Linux Mint - https://forums.linuxmint.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=272888 (Thanks JeremyB!)

How Do I Avoid Breaking Antenna Cables When Changing M.2 Adapters?

 

How Do I Avoid Breaking Antenna Cables When Changing M.2 Adapters?

Please note that any time you choose to change your Wi-Fi module, or any of your machine's hardware, you do so at your own risk and liability. 

M.2 WiFi modules and their connectors continue to get smaller as system providers continue to make thinner notebooks. This makes it much more difficult to disconnect the antenna lead from the module by hand when changing M.2 adapters. In order to properly disconnect the antenna from the module, all wireless module makers now recommend using a specially designed tool. For the Killer Wireless AC modules, we recommend using an IPEX MHF4L 90609-0001. This will greatly reduce the chance of damage to the wireless module connector or to the antenna connector.

If you are unable to obtain such a tool, be sure you pull the antenna leads straight up off of the connectors, to avoid breaking the connectors off of the card. Using a jeweler's or eyeglass repair screwdriver to very gently pull upward on the connector from beneath is best. When attaching antenna leads without a tool, try placing the adapter on a flat surface, lining the leads up on the receptacles, and then pressing down firmly, but gently, with a flat object, so that even pressure is applied. You should hear or feel a click when the the connector goes into place. Very little pressure is required so, if you find yourself pushing hard, you may be damaging the antenna connectors!

If you have further questions, please email us at killersupport@rivetnetworks.com.

Installing Bluetooth Drivers From Device Manager

 

In some cases, when there is no driver for your Bluetooth device, the Device Manager may mis-identify the Bluetooth device, or it may not identify it at all. In this case, you will need to install the Bluetooth driver from the Device Manager by following these steps:

  1. Run the installer but don't bother rebooting
  2. Verify that it created a folder called "C:\Program Files (x86)\Bluetooth Suite"
  3. In Device Manager, double-click the Bluetooth device, however it is currently named
  4. Under the Driver tab, click Update Driver
  5. Click Browse My Computer For Driver Software
  6. Click Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer
  7. Click Have Disk
  8. Browse to "C:\Program Files (x86)\Bluetooth Suite\driver"
  9. There should be only one option - atheros_bth.inf - click it and click Open
  10. Click Okay
  11. Select Qualcomm Atheros QCA61x4 Bluetooth 4.1 and click Next
  12. Click Yes on the warning popup
  13. Reboot after it finishes the install
  14. After the reboot, check Device Manager to verify that your Bluetooth device is now named Qualcomm Atheros QCA61x4 Bluetooth 4.1 and you should be good to go!

The Killer 1535/1525/1435 in Ubuntu/Debian

5.0 

Installing The Killer 1535/1525/1435 in Ubuntu/Debian

Ubuntu/Debian 14.04

You will first need to install the latest backports package to have up to date drivers. 

https://help.ubuntu.com/community/UbuntuBackports#Installing_Backports

Ubuntu/Debian 16.04

The built in drivers should work without any changes, though you may need to update your wireless firmware:

wget http://mirrors.kernel.org/ubuntu/pool/main/l/linux-firmware/linux-firmware_1.169.3_all.deb
sudo dpkg -i linux-firmware*.deb
sudo modprobe -r ath10k_pci && sudo modprobe ath10k_pci

The 1535 1525 and 1435 use the community developed and supported ath10k driver. Killer Networking neither develops nor supports the ath10k driver. For further support, please refer either to the community support for you specific Linux distrobution and version, or the driver itself. 

The Killer Wireless-AC 1535 in SteamOS

 

Installing The Killer Wireless-AC 1535 in SteamOS

Killer 1535 uses the included driver in SteamOS, however the firmware needs to be downloaded and updated.

Download:
http://www.killernetworking.com/support/K1535_Debian/board.bin and put it in the /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/ folder (create the folder if it doesn’t exist)

Download:
http://www.killernetworking.com/support/K1535_Debian/firmware-4.bin and put it in the /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/ folder as firmware-4.bin.

Create config file with:

sudo nano /etc/modprobe.d/ath10k.conf

The 1535 1525 and 1435 use the community developed and supported ath10k driver. Killer Networking neither develops nor supports the ath10k driver. For further support, please refer either to the community support for you specific Linux distrobution and version, or the driver itself.

Installing Drivers From .INF Package Through Device Manager

4.3 

Installing Drivers Using Device Manager

If you would like to install the Killer E2200, Killer E2400, Killer Wireless-N, or Killer Wireless-AC drivers without the Killer Performance Suite - you can do so using these steps. Note that this will disable all network prioritization features.

  1. Download the latest .INF package from this location - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/category/other-downloads
  2. Extract the contens of the package to a location that you will remember.
  3. If you currently have the performance suite installed, you will want to uninstall it first by right-clicking Start, then clicking Apps and Features. Then uninstall all "Killer" labeled applications in this window, including anything labeled "suite" or "driver," and restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
  4. Once your computer is ready, right-click Start, and click Device Manager.
  5. Locate the Killer Network Adapter in your Device Manager. If it has a driver already installed by Windows, it will be located by its name under Network Adapters. If it has no driver installed, it will be named Ethernet Controller or Unknown Device, as in the screenshot below.
  6. Right-click the adapter, and click Update Driver Software... or Update Driver, whichever is available. 
  7. Click Browse my computer for driver software. 



  8. Click Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer
  9. Click Have disk
  10. Click Browse
  11. Navigate to the location where you extracted the standalone driver package earlier. 
  12. From there, you will only have one option, which will be a folder called Production. Double-click that folder.
  13. Double-click your operating system.
  14. Double-click your network adapter.
    1. Eth for all Ethernet Adapters
    2. 11AC1525 for the 1525
    3. 11AC1550 for the 1550
    4. 11AC for the 1535/1435
    5. 11N for all Wireless-N adapters
  15. There will be only one file. Double-click it. 
  16. Click OK
  17. Select your exact model from the list and click Next

 

The final screen should show that you have successfully installed the driver. You can now click on Close.

 

Router or Modem Issues With Killer 1535/1435

 

Router or Modem Issues With Killer 1535/1435

This article is intended to cover all issues that affect any access point, be it a router or modem, that occur when the Killer Wireless-AC 1535/1435 connects or is connected.

Update September 10 2018: If you have a TP-Link TL-WR841N, and are experiencing restarts when you connect to it with your Killer Wireless-AC 1435 or 1535, contact TP-Link support - https://www.tp-link.com -  for updated firmware which will resolve this issue. The latest published firmware may not resolve the issue, but multiple users have reported that TP-Link support is able to provide them with firmware that does not have this bug. 

The 1535/1435 is a cutting edge Wireless-AC device with MU-MIMO and Transmit Beamforming technology and, as such, not all access points have firmware already installed that is able to handle the connection. Problems that some of our users have reported include:

  • Access point restarts or crashes upon connection, requiring restart
  • Access point restarts or crashes after being connected for some time, requiring restart
  • Access point slows dramatically
  • Access point randomly disconnects all connected devices

The fix for this issue will depend on your personal situation.

 

 

You Own the Access Point

In this case, you are connecting to a device, such as a router, that you own, which is then connected to another device, such as a modem, which is owned by your Internet Service Provider (ISP). If the device in question is a modem, please be sure that, even if you own the device, your ISP supports any firmware that you flash onto the modem. Most ISPs maintain a list of accepted firmware versions for each device online.

In many such situations, you can update the firmware of your device to resolve this issue. You should first try to update the firmware through the router's interface, if possible. If that is not a feature of that router, or if that does not solve the issue, check for the latest firmware from the official support page of your router. As of April 2018, reports of these issues have decreased significantly. It is possible that the routers listed below have all updated their regular branch firmware to include the fixes that will resolve your issue. If the problem is still not resolved, then see if your router is listed below. Listed below are the routers whose model numbers that we are aware of have issues, along with the location of the updated firmware that the router manufacturer has made available to address the issue:

If you own a different model than the one listed above, and updating to the latest firmware that is available from the support page of your router's manufacturer, we suggest contacting the support for your router, we suggest first updating to the latest Killer Control Center, found here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64. If that does not solve the issue, the next step would be to contact the support for your device and advise them of the steps that you have taken, and ask if they have a beta firmware available. At the same time, please contact our support, as well, using this form - http://www.killernetworking.com/about/contact

 

 

The Access Point is Owned By Your ISP

In this case, it is very possible that the device is running a very old firmware version. Most ISPs only update the firmware at the customer's request, or when it is absolutely necessary in order for the device to continue working on their network, and many ISPs use very old equipment. If you are connecting directly to an ISP owned device, and you are experiencing these issues, then your best bet would be to contact your ISP's support, and request that they update the firmware on the modem. This is usually a simple thing for them to do. If you are unable to resolve this by asking your ISP to update the firmware on the device, please let us know by contacting us here - http://www.killernetworking.com/about/contact - so that we may document the model of the access point that is not fully compatible with our device. In most cases, however, it is due to the age of the device, and a bug in its firmware. If asked, your ISP may be willing to change you to a different model of access point. You might also be able to provide your own access point (sometimes saving a monthly rental fee in the process), or buy your own router to plug into their modem, then use your router as the access point. If you decide to buy your own modem, most ISPs maintain a list of modems that work with their service. If you use multiple devices at the same time on the same access point, there is a good chance that you will see a boost in performance on all devices by providing your own modem. 

 

 

Addressing the Isssue with Drivers

There are some discussion threads where we have commented, linking to specific drivers on our site, where those drivers have now been moved, causing 404 errors, or redirections to this page. Those drivers were links to .INF drivers that could be installed using the Device Manager, to address specific access points crashing when the 1535 would connect to them. These posts and links were created before we had driver-only installers hosted on our website, and were generally just the latest driver-only file that we had available at that moment, as the problem was believed to be cause by the performance suite at the time. You can now download the latest driver-only installer here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/category/other-downloads. However, this will not always solve the issue, as the issue is sometimes not the performance suite, but that of buggy firmware with the access point. If you wish to try and address the issue by using a driver-only install, you will need to download the driver-only installer, then uninstall all "Killer" entries in your Programs and Features menu, restart your machine, then install the driver-only package. This will remove all Killer network management capability.

We have had some reports of users who were only able to keep their routers stable with only one very specific driver version - usually some Windows 8.1 driver used on a Windows 10 machine. In those cases, we will do our best to locate a copy of that specific version for you but, unfortunately for those cases, Windows Update will often update those drivers anyway, and that is completely out of our control. There are some guides out there on how to prevent Windows Update from updating your device drivers, but we have neither tested nor endorse any particular method of doing so, and we cannot say what the repercussions may be. 

 

 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

5.0 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

Users may encounter a situation where their Killer Wireless-AC adapter will not connect to their FIOS router on the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band. 

This seems to be due to the FIOS routers automatically choosing specific DFS channels that they may not fully support. There are a multitude of reports about this phenomenon around the web - where certain devices can connect to them while others cannot - but this post explains it fairly well - https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/2tu2so/why_some_devices_cant_see_the_verizon_fios_g1100s.

Fortunately, the fix is simple:

  1. Log in to your FIOS router's setup page. This page explains how to do so with some FIOS routers. It may not include all models. You may have to seek assistance from your ISP. https://www.howtogeek.com/197382/how-to-change-the-wi-fi-channel-on-your-verizon-fios-router/
  2. Change your router's 5 GHz channel. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to find which channel has the least traffic, but changing to any channel that is not a DFS channel should allow your devices to connect. Channels 36-48 and 149-165 are non-DFS channels in the United States. Your area may vary. You can reference this chart to find out which channels are DFS channels, and which are not, in your area of the world - - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5_GHz_(802.11a/h/j/n/ac/ax)
  3. Restart your machine, if necessary, and see if the issue is resolved. 

No Killer Enabled Devices On Linksys WRT32X and WRT32XB

 

Users with Killer Network Adapters and the Linksys WRT32X may see "No Killer Enabled Devices" or "0 Killer Enabled Devices" on the user interface page of their WRT32X. 

The Killer optimization on the WRT32X is compatible with all Killer adapters that work with the Killer Control Center, which includes the:E2500, E2400, E2200, E2201, and all of our Wireless-N and Wireless-AC adapters. 

Please note that Windows 8.1 or 10 is required on the Killer enabled device for the router to label it as such in the router's interface. The router will still prioritize the Windows 7 Killer enabled device, but it will not appear that way in the router interface. 

You must also have a recent version of the Killer Control Center installed. You can find out how to install the latest Killer Control Center here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/22-update-killer-control-center.

After you have installed the latest Killer Control Center, if the router still fails to detect the Killer adapters, you may need to unplug the router for ten seconds, then plug it back in. If it still does not recognize the adapters, you may need to restart your computer once more by clicking Start > Power > Restart

Consoles will not appear as Killer Enabled Devices, even on the WRT32XB. The unlike the WRT32X, however, the WRT32XB will identify the XBOX ONE by name. You can then assign it priority within the router's UI. 

If you still experience issues, it is recommended that you contact Linksys Support unless you are having other issues with your Killer adapter, in which case you should reach out to us through the contact form below. 

 

Wi-Fi Channels 12 and 13

4.0 

Some users have reported problems seeing Wi-Fi access points that are using channels 12 or 13. This is a driver issue that will be corrected in later versions. In the meantime, there is a fairly simple registry tweak, which you can perform, that will enable your machine to see these channels. Note that this method has only been tested in Windows 10. If you have success using this method in Windows 7 or 8.1, please reach out to us at the contact information below and let us know!

  1. Click Start
  2. Type regedit and press Enter
  3. Copy the following, and paste it into the bar beneath File, Edit, View, Favorite, Help: 

    Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4d36e972-e325-11ce-bfc1-08002be10318}
     
  4. Then press Enter. It should jump to a point in the registry that looks like the below picture.
    Registry
  5. Each numbered folder within corresponds with a device on your machine. Unfortunately, from here, it's complete guesswork as to which folder equals which device. Fortunately, it's pretty obvious as you click on each folder. For instance, 0006 is my Killer 1525, as you can see in screenshot. If in doubt, look for the "DriverDesc" entry. They're in alphabetical order. But, again, it should be pretty obvious. If you see it talking about Bluetooth, it's the wrong one. Once you find it, you know where the registry portion for your Killer adapter is hiding. 
  6. On the right pane of the registry editor, find the entry marked "AddNewChannelfor11d". This is our holy grail of channels 12 and 13. It is currently set to a value of 0. Double-click it. Change the value to 1, and click the OK button.
  7. Click File then Exit
  8. You have now activated the adapter's ability to see channels 12 and 13. 

What Is A "Killer Enabled Device?"

 

What Is A "Killer Enabled Device?"

A "Killer Enabled Device" is any computer that is connected to the Internet using a currently supported Killer Networking adapter. These adapters can be found installed in gaming laptops, desktops, and mainboards, manufactured by various well-known and respected names in the computer industry. If you are looking for a Killer Enabled Device, then you are looking for a machine, or motherboard, with one of these network adapters. Currently supported adapters include:

  • All Killer Wireless-N Wi-Fi adapters
  • All Killer Wireless-AC Wi-Fi adapters
  • Killer E2200, E2400, and E2500 Gigabit Ethernet Adapters

If you have such a device, and you are connected to a router, such as the WRT32X, and it is not recognizing your adapter as a Killer Enabled Device, then you may need to update your Killer Control Center. You can find the latest version of hte Killer Control Center here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64. If you have any issues updating your suite, you can find troubleshooting steps here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/6-troubleshooting-killer-ethernet-wireless-drivers-software

XBOX devices will not show as a Killer Enabled Device on the WRT32X or the WRT32XB. The WRT32XB will identify the XBOX, though, and allow you to set its priority within the router's user interface.

Wi-Fi Issues with 1435/1535/1525 on Debian, Ubuntu, and Arch

2.5 

Wi-Fi Disconnects and Latency with 1435/1535/1525 on Debian, Ubuntu, and Arch

Some users have noted Wi-Fi disconnects and latency on some distros of Linux after recent updates.

This issue likely affects Debian, Ubuntu, and Arch, and may also affect any other Debian-based distros such as Mint, Kali, etc. 

As the ath10k Wi-Fi driver that is used by our Wi-Fi devices in these versions of Linux is a community sourced driver, we have no direct impact on its stability, but since some users have indicated that they have found a fix for these issues, we wanted to share the fix with the rest of our users. 

In summary, the fix is to install the updated firmware and firmware repo, following these steps:

  1. Download https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/blob/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin and overwrite /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin with the downloaded file.
  2. Download https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/blob/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/4.4.1/firmware-6.bin_WLAN.RM.4.4.1-00065-QCARMSWP-1and overwrite /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/firmware-6.bin.
  3. Restart

Following is a much more detailed, step-by-step guide on how to implement this fix:

  1. Open a Terminal window and navigate to the following location:
    cd /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/
  2. Backup your board-2.bin and firmware-6.bin files:
    sudo mv /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin.bak
    sudo mv /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/firmware-6.bin /lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/firmware-6.bin.bak
  3. Download the two replacement versions and place them into the '/lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0/' folder:
    Download: https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/blob/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/board-2.bin
    Download: https://github.com/kvalo/ath10k-firmware/raw/master/QCA6174/hw3.0/4.4.1/firmware-6.bin_WLAN.RM.4.4.1-00065-QCARMSWP-1
  4. Rename your new 'firmware-6...' file to 'firmware-6.bin':
    sudo mv firmware-6.bin_WLAN.RM.4.4.1-00065-QCARMSWP-1 firmware-6.bin
  5. Enter ls -la into your terminal to verify the directory looks something like this:
    user@Ubuntu-XPS:/lib/firmware/ath10k/QCA6174/hw3.0$ ls -la
    total 3168
    drwxr-xr-x 2 root root 4096 Feb 6 15:29 .
    drwxr-xr-x 4 root root 4096 Jun 24 2016 ..
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 271412 Feb 6 15:30 board-2.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 271412 Feb 6 15:28 board-2.bin.bak
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 337204 Nov 15 15:56 board-2.bin.wifi-qca6174
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 8124 May 12 2016 board.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 8124 Dec 1 2016 board.bin.wifi-qca6174
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 733784 Dec 1 2016 firmware-4.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 711408 Feb 6 15:30 firmware-6.bin
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 711408 Feb 6 15:28 firmware-6.bin.bak
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 79689 Dec 1 2016 notice_ath10k_firmware-4.txt
    -rw-r--r-- 1 root root 82663 Nov 15 15:44 notice_ath10k_firmware-6.txt
  6. Restart your computer.

The 1535 1525 and 1435 use the community developed and supported ath10k driver. Killer Networking neither develops nor supports the ath10k driver. For further support, please refer either to the community support for you specific Linux distrobution and version, or the driver itself.

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.