Ethernet

Slow Ethernet Upload (1.0 Mbps or less after Windows Update)

3.8 

Slow Ethernet Upload

Some users may experience issues with slow upload (usually 1.0 Mbps, or near there) with Ethernet connections, especially after updating to Windows 10 1803 (April 2018 Update). This can typically be resolved by uninstalling and reinstalling the Killer Control Center after the Windows 10 1803 update. Here is the step by step:

  1. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe
  2. Download the installer for the Killer Control Center that is best for your version of Windows 10. You can check this by clicking Start, then type winver and press Enter.
  3. Restart your computer by clicking Power > Start > Restart
  4. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. When it is finished, it will say REBOOT REQUIRED.
  5. Restart your computer by clicking Power > Start > Restart
  6. Once your computer has restarted, run the Killer Control Center installer that you downloaded, and follow the prompts to complete the install.

Please note that the Killer Software Uninstaller removes files and folders from previous installations that will not be removed simply by uninstalling old versions.

If you wish to know more about the differences between the two versions of the Killer Control Center, please see this article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/100-which-killer-control-center-should-i-install

 

Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps

4.3 

Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps

You may find that your Ethernet speed is capped at 100 Mbps when your Internet Service Provider, or your internal network connection, should be providing speeds greater than 100 Mbps. If this is the case, you may be encountering a link speed issue. To check for this, check the link speed on the machine in question by following these steps:

  • Search Control Panel with Windows Search and press Enter
  • Click Network and Internet
  • Click View network status and tasks which will be underneath Network and Sharing Center
  • Click the connection that represents the Ethernet connection to your router or modem. You should see a screen that looks something like this.

link speed

Notice that the link "Speed" here reads as 100 Mbps. This means that the negotiated connection speed between the Ethernet adapter and whatever device it is plugged into is 100 Mbps. When everything is working correctly, this speed will read as 1.0 Gbps.

The only setting that is of concern for a Gigabit connection is that the adapter is set to Auto-Negotiate. From the Device Manager, you can check to see that the Killer adapter is set on Auto-Negotiate. This option is under the Advanced tab of the adapter's properties, in Speed & Duplex - right-click the adapter and choose properties, click the Advanced tab, and click Speed & Duplex, and make sure it is set to Auto-Negotiate. This is the default setting. We have had reports of some ISP technicians telling their customers that a Gigabit option will appear in this setting if the network adapter is working correctly. This is incorrect. Auto-Negotiate is the correct setting for Gigabit speeds in Speed & Duplex for Killer Networking Adapters.

If this is set correctly and your link speed still reads as 100 Mbps, then the issue could be a few things, although it is important to note up front that this is almost always an issue with an Ethernet cable.

Before troubleshooting any further, check the connection of the Ethernet cable into every piece of networking equipment, as well as your computer. Make sure each cable is labeled Cat 6 or Cat7. Unplug each Ethernet cable and plug it back in. Make sure that your cable is pressed firmly into the Ethernet jack. You should hear and feel a very audible click sound when the cable is in place. If you do not feel and hear this, then this cable should be considered broken, and you need to replace it. 

Even if you firmly believe that your Ethernet cabling is perfectly fine, and even if this cabling worked fine before, swapping it out for another, proven cable, or a brand new Cat 6 cable, will almost certainly solve the issue with the minimum of troubleshooting and headache. This is a very, very common occurrence when troubleshooting Gigabit Ethernet, and it nearly always comes down to one cable being the culprit. Note that this includes all cabling between the machine and the router, including any cabling in before and after any switches, or on the other side of any wall jacks, and behind the wall. However, if you were getting Gigabit using a particular setup and suddenly, with no changes whatsoever, your link speed is now 100 Mbps, then it's probably only one cable that is now having issues, and it is likely one that is exposed.

The fastest way to rule out any problems with anything other than cabling is to connect your machine directly into your modem with a single, proven Cat 6 or better Ethernet cable, and preferably into a proven Gigabit capable port, then check the link speed. If the link speed shows as 1.0 Gbps, then you know that the problem is somewhere in what you have just bypassed. Using this method of troubleshooting can be a pain if you are not dealing with a laptop, but it might still be worth doing if you have to decide if you need to call a contractor out to look at wiring behind your walls. Note that very long Ethernet cords are available for purchase, with lengths of over 200 feet or 60 meters, are available, so if you are involved in a prolonged debate with a technician over link speeds, this might be the simplest way to provide a temporary, single cable connection from your machine to the modem. 

That said, all adapters are different and handle shorts or issues with cables or ports differently, but a Gigabit adapter reporting as 100 Mbps is almost certainly a physical issue with the networking equipment.

You can troubleshoot this by trying different combinations:

  • If you cannot connect your machine to the modem with a single, proven Cat 6 cable, maybe you can connect a machine whose link speed currently shows as 1 Gbps to the Ethernet cable that is currently plugged into the problem machine. If this second machine now shows a link speed of 100 Mbps, this also proves that the issue is somewhere in the cabling or equipment between the machine and the access point, not with the machine itself. 
  • Power cycle (unplug and plug back in) your access point (hub, switch, router) and any other device between your machine and the access point.
  • Cat 6 is preferred to Cat 5e as, although the latter is technically capable of gigabit connections, it lacks any redundancies in grounding, which is an extremely common point of failure in network cables. Cat 6 remedies this issue, and making sure that all of your cabling is Cat 6 or better is usually a surefire way to achieve a gigabit connection. 
  • A "failed" Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable will usually still work at 100 Mbps. It doesn't take much physical trauma for a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps, and many of the cheaper ones don't support 1 Gbps out of the bag, even though they will be labeled as supported 1 Gbps connections. If you have only tried a Cat 5e cable, you owe it to yourself to try a Cat 6 cable. This is almost certainly the issue. If you are having issues achieving Gigabit speeds and you have Cat 5e cables in the mix then it is safe to assume that those specific Cat 5e cables are not Gigabit capable. This is common. Incidents such as rolling over the cable with an office chair, or stepping on it, or closing a door on it, can all cause a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps link speeds when it was previously working at Gigabit speeds.
  • Try different ports on your access point (hub, switch, router). If possible, use a port that is proven capable of working at Gigabit speeds with another machine. 
  • If all of these fail, then likely the Ethernet connector on the mainboard has an issue and you would need to check with your PC manufacturer (or mainboard manufacturer, if you assembled the machine yourself) on what your warranty or RMA options are. You may want to perform a physical inspection on the Ethernet jack's pins to make sure that none of them are bent or otherwise damaged. It is worth stressing once more, though, that this issue is nearly always one with the cabling somewhere between the Ethernet jack on your machine, and the Ethernet jack for the modem.

Fall Creator's Update Breaks Network Adapter

5.0 

Some users have experienced issues with their network adapters directly after the Windows 10 Fall Creator's Update. The errors vary, but most point to a hardware failure of some kind. We have received reports of "Network Cable Unplugged" and "Device Cannot Start," even though the adapters were working normally before the update. Unfortunately, in some cases, the only solution seems to be to uninstall and reinstall the Windows 10 Fall Creator's Update. However, one thing you can try is uninstalling all drivers for the device from the Windows driver store, then restarting the machine, and installing the latest drivers. Here are the steps: 

  1. Make sure you have the latest Killer Control Center installer handy on the machine (you may need to use a USB thumb drive or some other medium if you can't access the Internet with the machine). 
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, find all entries with "Killer" in the title, and uninstall them. This includes "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" or any variations. You can hold off on restarting for now if an uninstaller says to do so.
    1. If you encounter any issues with uninstalling, such as the uninstaller hanging (give it at least ten minutes), or giving an error message, cancel the uninstallation, then right-click the taskbar and click Task Manager.
    2. Make sure the Processes tab is selected.
    3. Click Name at the top of the "Name" column to sort by name.
    4. Scroll down and find any "Killer" process under "Apps" and "Background Processes", click it, and click the End Task button.
    5. Click the Services tab. 
    6. Click Name to sort by name.
    7. Scroll down and find the "Killer Network Service". Right-click it and click Stop. 
    8. Close the Task Manager window and return to the Apps and Features menu, and continue uninstalling all "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" entries.
  3. Close Apps and Features and right-click Start and click Device Manager
  4. Find the Ethernet adapter under the Network Adapters heading, right click it, and click Uninstall Device. If you cannot find it, you may need to click View > Show hidden devices at the top of Device Manager. It may also be listed somewhere other than under Network Adapters.
  5. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device if it is present.
  6. Click Uninstall.
  7. Click the light blue Scan for hardware changes icon at the top of Device Manager. The adapter will probably reappear, and may or may not still show a Code 10, but I would suggest continuing with this guide either way.
  8. Repeat steps 4-7 until you no longer have the option to Delete the driver software for this device. Note that you could keep doing this indefinitely, as Windows will always install a default driver, but once you can no longer Delete the driver software for this device, you have accomplished the goal of clearing out all of the drivers that we were trying to clear out, and so you're done by that point.
  9. Restart the computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Do not rely on the machine's power button as many modern computers have that button set to sleep, not power off. 
  10. Once the machine has restarted, run the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. If everything doesn't look perfect, restart the machine after the installation, even if the installer did not say to do so. 

If that doesn't solve the issue, you can try uninstalling the Fall Creator's Update. Here are the steps to do that:

  1. Click ​Start
  2. Type ​Windows Update ​and click ​Windows Update Settings.
  3. Click ​Recovery​ on the left. 
  4. Under "Go back to the previous version of Windows 10" click ​the ​Get Started​ button, and follow the prompts from there to revert to the previous version of Windows 10.

Once you have reverted to the previous version of Windows 10, make sure you hae updated to the latest version of your network adapter drivers. You can download the latest Killer Control Center, with the latest drivers, from here - http://killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64

Windows will invariably reinstall the update at some point. You can either wait for it to update on its own, or you can search Windows Update, then click Check for Updates, and it will likely download and install the Fall Creator's Update again, hopefully without the same issue, as you will now have the latest drivers for your network adapter. 

Issues With Internet and General Network Connectivity

5.0 

The following is a basic troubleshooting guide for all issues with Internet and basic network connectivity. If you are experiencing issues with your Internet or network connection, please try the following, as these steps will more than likely solve the issue quickly and efficiently with a minimum of time spent on your part. 

  1. Update your drivers.
    1. If you have a currently support Killer adapter (E2200, 2201, 2400, 2500, or any Wireless-AC or Wireless-N adapter), please download the latest Killer Control Center from here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64.
    2. Once you have the latest installer, right click Start, click Apps and Features, then uninstall all "Killer Drivers" and "Killer Suite" applications, and any variations.
    3. Restart your computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Note that using the power button on your machine most likely activates sleep mode, and does not actually shut the machine down, so does not work for this purpose.
    4. Once the computer has restarted, install the latest suite by double-clicking the installer package that you downloaded earlier. 
    5. Restart the machine once more once the installer has finished.
    6. Test to see if the problem is resolved. Continue reading if not.
  2. Reset all of your networking equipment by doing the following. Please note that while you may have done this previously, or may have reset some of your networking equipment, it is worth your time to reset all of it, in the proper order, to make sure that this very simple, and very effective troubleshooting process has been ruled out. If you do not have access to your access point, skip 
    1. Shut down your computer by clicking Start > Power > Shut Down
    2. Locate your modem and note the lights on your modem when it is normal and ready. There may be a "Ready" or "Online" light. Taking a picture with a phone is a good tactic, so that you know when it's ready to go.
    3. Trace the Ethernet cord (not the screw-in coaxial cable or the power cord, but the one with a clip) to the next device to determine if you have a router.
    4. Unplug the power cord (either from the back of the device or from the wall, whichever is easier) of your modem, router, and any switches or hubs,  between your computer and the modem, as well as any wireless boosters, powerline adapters, or access points, and leave them all unplugged for now.
    5. Plug in your modem.
    6. Wait until your modem's lights show normal operation again.
    7. Plug in your router, if you have one, and give it about five-minutes to boot. Routers typically have no external means of telling if they are ready, but they should be ready after a five minute wait.
    8. Plug in anything else between your computer and the modem
    9. Power on your computer.
    10. Test to see if the issue is resolved. Continue reading if not. 
  3. Reset the network stack on your machine by doing the following. Please note that, even if you have already tried some of these commands, others on this list may be necessary to properly reset your network stack.
    1. In the search box on the taskbar (click Start), type command prompt, right-click the command prompt result, and then select Run as administrator and confirm.
    2. Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter. (Decline restarting your machine until you have finished running all of the commands)
    3. Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter.
    4. Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
    5. Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter.
    6. Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
    7. Restart your computer.
    8. Test to see if the issue is resolved.

If you are still unable to resolve the issue, you need to first identify the actual issue -- is the router having issues when the Killer adapter connects, or is the Killer adapter having issues when it connects to your access point? If you have other devices that are also connected to the same access point, and those devices continue to work, uninterrupted, throughout your troubleshooting, then the issue is with the trouble machine alone. In that case, please feel free to contact us at the link below. 

However, if other devices are disconnecting when the trouble machine connects, then the issue may be with the router's firmware. In that case, please refer to this page - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/35-router-issues-with-1535 - for further troubleshooting. 

Driver Errors in Device Manager

 

This article explains how to address each error that a user may encounter while using Killer devices.

"This Device Cannot Start (Code 10)" in Device Manager

1.7 

"This Device Cannot Start (Code 10)" in Device Manager

code 10 device cannot start

We have seen many Code 10 errors lately from machines where Windows 10 has automatically updated the drivers from older versions. These errors do not mean that your adapter has actually failed. This is an issue with Windows 10, and getting the proper drivers installed will correct the issue. 

First, try updating to the latest Killer Control Center, which contains the latest suite and drivers. You can find that download here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64​. If you have any problems with the install, you can refer to our KB article on that subject here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/6-troubleshooting-killer-ethernet-wireless-drivers-software​.

If you have no way of getting drivers onto the machine (no USB thumb drive, no other means of connecting to the Internet with this machine) then click here to jump down to the alternate guide to fixing Code 10 errors.

If you have installed the latest Killer Control Center and restarted the machine, and that did not clear the Code 10 error, you can usually clear it by cleaning out the driver store. Here are the steps to clear out the driver store, and install the latest driver:

  1. Make sure you have the latest Killer Control Center installer handy on the machine (you may need to use a USB thumb drive or some other medium if you can't access the Internet with the machine). 
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, find all entries with "Killer" in the title, and uninstall them. This includes "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" or any variations. You can hold off on restarting for now if an uninstaller says to do so.
  3. Close Apps and Features and right-click Start and click Device Manager
  4. Find the Ethernet adapter under the Network Adapters heading, right click it, and click Uninstall Device. If you cannot find it, you may need to click View > Show hidden devices at the top of Device Manager. It may also be listed somewhere other than under Network Adapters.
  5. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device if it is present.
  6. Click Uninstall.
  7. Click the light blue Scan for hardware changes icon at the top of Device Manager. The adapter will probably reappear, and may or may not still show a Code 10, but I would suggest continuing with this guide either way.
  8. Repeat steps 4-7 until you no longer have the option to Delete the driver software for this device. Note that you could keep doing this indefinitely, as Windows will always install a default driver, but once you can no longer Delete the driver software for this device, you have accomplished the goal of clearing out all of the drivers that we were trying to clear out, and so you're done by that point.
  9. Restart the computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Do not rely on the machine's power button as many modern computers have that button set to sleep, not power off. 
  10. Once the machine has restarted, run the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. If everything doesn't look perfect, restart the machine after the installation, even if the installer did not say to do so. 

 

 

The Alternate Guide to Fixing Code 10 Errors

This guide is only intended for use when you cannot get drivers onto the machine using a USB drive or an alternate means of Internet access, such as an installed Wi-Fi adapter.

  1. Close all other applications, as you will need to allow restarts as they are requested. If you regain connectivity after a restart, click here to go to step one on the guide above and proceed to clear the rest of the drivers in the driver store, as guided, and install the latest driver. This is very important as, otherwise, the "bad" driver will remain in the Windows driver store, and may cause issues in the future. 
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, find all entries with "Killer" in the title, and uninstall them. This includes "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" or any variations. If an installer requests a restart at any point, click to allow it to restart. 
  3. Once the machine has restarted, test to see if the issue is resolved. 
  4. If not, right-click Start, and click Device Manager.
  5. Find the Ethernet adapter under the Network Adapters heading, right click it, and click Uninstall Device. If you cannot find it, you may need to click View > Show hidden devices at the top of Device Manager. It may also be listed somewhere other than under Network Adapters.
  6. Click Uninstall.
  7. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device if it is present.
  8. Restart the computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Do not rely on the machine's power button as many modern computers have that button set to sleep, not power off. Once the machine has restarted, check to see if the issue is resolved. 
  9. If not, repeat steps 4 - 8 until you regain Internet connectivity. Once you do, remember to go to step one on the guide above and proceed to clear the rest of the drivers in the driver store, as guided, and install the latest driver. This is very important as, otherwise, the "bad" driver will remain in the Windows driver store, and may cause issues in the future. 

If you have any further issues or questions, feel free to reach out to support at http://www.killernetworking.com/about/contact

Slow Network Speeds

4.0 

Slow Network Speeds

If you are experiencing slow Internet or network speeds, you can follow this troubleshooting guide to address and correct the most common problems. 

If you haven't already, please try installing the latest Killer Control Center from our website, and only from our website. It includes many fixes and improvements that are not be included in other packages. If you are still using the Killer Network Manager, you'll want to download the Killer Control Center, and then manually uninstall the Killer Network Manager, as well as the "Killer Drivers" entry in your programs list. You can find the latest Killer Control Center here: https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/22-update-killer-control-center

Once you have successfully updated your drivers, you will want to restart your computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. It is important to note that closing the lid or pressing the power button on many modern computers does not shut them down, but instead activates sleep mode. You must restart them by clicking Start > Power > Restart for them to restart.

If updating the drivers does not solve the issue, try resetting your networking equipment in this specific order, even if you have reset your some or all of your equipment previously. This order is proven to help your devices sync up properly, and will help to get a clean slate with further troubleshooting. Doing this can help even if only one device is experiencing problems. 

  1. Shut down your computer.
  2. Locate your modem and note the lights on your modem when it is normal and ready. There may be a "Ready" light.
  3. Unplug your modem, router, and any switches or hubs, between your computer and the modem, as well as any wireless boosters or access points, and leave them all unplugged for now.
  4. Plug in your modem.
  5. Wait until your modem's lights show normal operation again.
  6. Plug in your router, if you have one, and give it about five minutes to boot.
  7. Plug in anything else between your computer and the modem
  8. Power on your computer.
  9. Once your computer is booted and connected to the Internet, you will want to reset its network stack:
    1. In the search box on the taskbar, type Command prompt, right-click Command prompt, and then select Run as administrator > Yes.
    2. At the command prompt, run the following commands in the listed order, and then check to see if that fixes your connection problem:
      • Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter.
      • Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter.
      • Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter.
  10. Now reboot your machine once more and test to see if the issue is resolved.

If not, the next step is to make sure that your Windows installation is completely up to date. Microsoft has been updating Windows more often than with any previous release, so it's important to keep things up to date. To do this, simply search Windows Updates, hit Enter, and then click Check for Updates. If your machine finds updates, check again once it finishes installing. Once your machine finds no updates, restart again, and then check for updates once more. Once your machine finds no updates upon a fresh reboot, your Windows installation should be fully up to date.

If you have performed the above, and you are still experiencing issues with slow network speeds, there are some other things to try:

  • Set a benchmark. Place the device in one place, if dealing with Wi-Fi, and run a test using one speed test. Turn off all other network usage while troubleshooting. Speedtest.net and Testmy.net are both good bandwidth tests. Run three tests in short succession and record an average as your starting point. Test after each change to see if there has been improvement. Record what you changed, and what the speeds the change produced. If the change seems dramatic, restart the machine and test again to be sure. 
  • Make sure your BIOS is up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure your chipset drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure all of the other drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page. You can safely download and install all available driver packages. If the driver does not apply, it will either not install, or will not be used. If the only options in a driver installer package are "Repair" or "Uninstall", choosing "Repair" will update the driver, if there is a newer driver available.
  • Update the firmware on your router if you own the router.
  • Update the firmware on your modem if you own the modem, but only if your ISP accepts the firmware. Your ISP's support team can help you with this. Some ISPs also have this information listed somewhere, but they may need to do something on their end if you update the firmware, in order to re-authorize your modem. 
  • Have your ISP update the firmware on your modem or router if they own your modem or router.
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, minimize the number of solid objects between the access point's antenna and the device suffering from low speeds, using line-of-sight. Moving a device or antenna even an inch to one side could bypass multiple solid objects, making an enormous difference. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to make changes to your router's settings. 
    • 5 GHz routers should be set to channels 36-48, and/or 149-165 that are as far away from other channels as possible.
    • 2.4 GHz routers should be set to channels 1, 6, or 11, depending on which channels have the least powerful conflicting radios present.
    • Sideband, or side channel should be set to 20 MHz if there are many other Wi-Fi access points in your area, especially if you are forced to share a channel. Higher side channels are less powerful, but provide a wider band, allowing the signal to get around solid objects better, theoretically improving performance in situations where there are no interference concerns, but the Wi-Fi signal needs to "get around" solid objects. Many, however, report that, in real life testing, 20 MHz still provides the better signal, so your mileage may vary. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi and your router has both a 5 GHz radio and a 2.4 GHz radio, name them something different. Although it might seem simpler to name them the same thing, many routers do not handle this very well, and you can see performance issues by having them named the same thing. Many people opt to simply add "5" to the end of the 5 GHz radio. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi extenders, name each of your extenders something different, so that you know which access point you are connected to. Wi-Fi extenders have limited radio capacity, and will, always provide at least slightly slower speeds than connecting directly to the router, as they have to use the same radio to receive and transmit, at the same time. 
  • If it seems like other machines using the same access point are having no issues, try to verify this. Borrow their machine and run a speed test. Ask for permission first, of course. If you are experiencing issues on a public access point, you might just find that the public access point is just terrible, and that no one else is having a problem because you're the only one playing latency-intensive first person shooters. 
  • If you are using a Wireless-N router in a crowded Wi-Fi environment, you are very likely to encounter drops and speed issues no matter what settings you change. Unfortunately, the 2.4 GHz spectrum is very limited on how many channels are available, and conflicts arise quickly. Updating to a Wireless-AC router may be required to increase your speeds and reduce wireless drops. 
  • If you are using an antivirus or firewall application, try completely uninstalling it for testing purposes. Unfortunately, simply disabling these programs do not work for troubleshooting purposes, as they often continue to manipulate network traffic. They must be fully uninstalled. If you notice that your speeds increase dramatically with the antivirus or firewall application uninstalled, try installing a freshly downloaded version from their website. If that doesn't help, then the issue may be one with the antivirus application itself. In that case, you will want to contact the support team for the antivirus application. 

If you are unable to get your speed issues sorted out using the above tips, feel free to contact us directly using the information below! 

 

PC Wakes From Sleep Unexpectedly

5.0 

PC Wakes From Sleep Unexpectedly

Users may notice that their PC either wakes from sleep unexpectedly, or does not stay in sleep mode. This issue may happen when:

  • You add a new machine with a Killer adapter to your home network
  • You add a new machine without a Killer adapter to your home network
  • You add a new router or modem to your home network
  • Drivers are updated on any network adapter on your home network
  • Firmware is updated on any router or modem on your home network
  • A machine has its operating system (Windows) reinstalled
  • Other various situations

This phenomenon is not limited to Killer Networking adapters. The issue is that the adapter is seeing a signal pass across the local area network that it perceives to be a Wake On LAN signal. The fix is to disable the Wake on LAN features on the network adapter installed on the machine that is waking unexpectedly. This will only disable your network adapter's ability to wake your computer - it will not affect all other ways that your computer comes out of sleep mode, including the power button, USB devices, mouse, keyboard, or anything else. You will still be able to wake your machine as you usually do. To do this in Windows 10:

  1. Right-click Start
  2. Click Device Manager
  3. Double-click Network Adapters
  4. Double-click your Ethernet Adapter. If you have multiple adapters, and you are not sure which one is the Ethernet adapter, then  you can either refer to the specifications for your machine, or check these settings for each adapter. There is no harm in disabling these settings with each adapter unless you want your network adapter to be able to wake your computer.
  5. Click the Advanced tab.
  6. In the box labeled "Property", find and click Wake on Pattern Match. 
  7. Change the "Value" to Disabled.
  8. In the box labeled "Property", find and click Wake on Magic Packet. (this step may not be necessary in all cases, but if you are not planning to use Wake on LAN, there is no harm in disabling it)
  9. Change the "Value" to Disabled.
  10. Click OK, and then close the Device Manager window. 

The computer should no longer wake unexpectedly. 

Ethernet Adapter No Longer In Device Manager

1.0 

When a device goes missing from the Device Manager, it means that either the BIOS or the operating system is not enumerating the device for some reason. Check for another device in Device Manager that may be the Ethernet controller, but not labeled as such. It may be called "Unknown Device" or "Network Controller." If such a device exists, you can usually simply right-click on that device and click Update Driver and the problem will resolve itself from there.

If there is nothing at all indicating the existence of the Ethernet device, then the device may have been disbled in the BIOS. If you have recently made changes in the BIOS, then this would be worth checking. It's usually a fairly obvious setting, such as "Enable onboard LAN" that has been unchecked. If you have not changed anything in the BIOS, check to with your machine or mainboard manufacturer to make sure that you are using the most up to date version of the BIOS available. 

If you have ruled out the above, you may be able to uninstall and reinstall the drivers for the device by following these steps:

  1. Download the latest Killer Control Center installer from here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64. If you do not have another adapter on that machine, you may need to use a USB drive, or some other method of moving the file onto the machine.
  2. Right-click Start and click Apps and Features
  3. Find any "Killer" entry and uninstall it, including "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Performance Suite" or any variation.
  4. Restart the machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  5. Once the machine has booted back up, right-click start and click Device Manager
  6. Click View and click Show hidden devices
  7. Hopefully the missing adapter will show up, albeit grayed out. Right click on it, and click Uninstall Device.
  8. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device , if it exists, then click Uninstall.
  9. Click the light blue Scan for hardware changes icon at the top of Device Manager.
  10. If the adapter reppears, close the Device Manager and run the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. If it does not, restart the computer.

If the adapter still does not appear, then try updating all of the drivers available from your mainboard or machine manufacturer. The chipset driver is especially important. Uninstalling the most recent Windows Updates may also help, especially if the issue was first noticed after a Windows Update. Sometimes, uninstalling and reinstalling the Windows Update in question will result in a more successful outcome, with a working Ethernet adapter. 

If none of the above does the trick, you may need to perform a power drain on the machine in order to force it to re-enumerate the device. To do this, unplug the machine from the wall and then, if it is a laptop, remove the battery, if possible. If you cannot remove the battery, drain it through usage until the machine will no longer power on. If it is a desktop, you will need to remove the CMOS battery, which is a large button-style battery on the mainboard. Once there is no power to the machine, press and hold the power button for ten seconds, to complete the power drain. Then replace the battery, plug the machine back in, and power it on. The Ethernet device should now enumerate and, with the fixes that you put in place earlier, it should not vanish again.

 

LSP Not Mapped Correctly

1.0 

LSP Not Mapped Correctly

If you are encountering this error while using a currently supported Killer Network Adapter, such as the Killer E2200 or any Killer Wireless Adapter, please download the latest Killer Control Center from here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - uninstall all "Killer' applications from your Apps and Features or Add/Remove Programs menu, including "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Performance Suite", restart your machine, and then run the installer that you downloaded to install the latest Killer Control Center, along with the latest drivers for your network adapter.

If you are using a Legacy Killer product, please continue reading. 

The Killer 2100/Xeno Pro employed a LSP (Layered Service Provider). While this is beneficial in allowing the Killer software to enable offload and lower latency, it has been found to be incompatable with some games, thus creating instability or crashes. If you are experiencing any crashes while playing games, it is recommended that you 'unmap' the LSP. Prioritization and other Killer freatures will continue to function.

Note: The Killer Network Manager application will warn you on each startup that the LSP is unmapped. You should choose 'no' to remapping. There is not currently a workaround to prevent the Network Manager from throwing this message.

This is done with the following steps:

Start an administrative command prompt and type these commands:

cd "\Program Files\Bigfoot Networks\Killer Network Manager"
killertool -lsp-unmap

Legacy Products and iTunes

 

iTunes Will Not Connect

A software update is needed. The latest Legacy drivers can be found here:

https://www.visiontek.com/support/download-drivers.html

A successful update will remedy connectivity errors with iTunes and other Apple software.

  Please note that this KB article only pertains to legacy products. If you are encountering this issue with a currently supported Killer Network Adapter (Killer E2200, E2400, E2500, and all Wireless adapters), please make sure that you are running the latest Killer Control Center - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and, if that does not solve the issue, please contact support so that we may help you further. 

Legacy Killer Network Manager Asking for Flash Installation

 

The Network Manager Repeatedly Asks for Flash to be Installed

This error can be corrected by installing Flash within Internet Explorer, which is where the Killer app performs its check. You do not need to use IE as your browser going forward, but simply open IE, install Flash, and it should resolve the issue.

  Please note that this KB article only pertains to legacy products. If you are encountering this issue with a currently supported Killer Network Adapter (Killer E2200, E2400, E2500, and all Wireless adapters), please make sure that you are running the latest Killer Control Center - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and, if that does not solve the issue, please contact support so that we may help you further. 

Legacy Products and Connections With Online Games

 

Problems Connecting to Grand Theft Auto 5, or Another Online Game.

Please note that this KB article only pertains to legacy products. If you are encountering connectivity issues with a currently supported Killer Network Adapter (Killer E2200, E2400, E2500, and all Wireless adapters), please make sure that you are running the latest Killer Control Center - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and, if that does not solve the issue, please contact support so that we may help you further. 

Some newer games are not compatible with the Killer Xeno Pro/Killer 2100's offload solution. If you are having issues connecting to a particular game, there is a workaround to tell the Killer software to not bypass the Windows network stack for that particular process/game. The game will still get the highest priority with this method.The solution is to add the particular processes (such as hl2.exe for TF2, or GTA5.exe), to the gamedetect file.

First, ensure you know the full exe name of the game/process with the issue.

Then, go to C:\ProgramData\Bigfoot Networks . This folder is hidden by default. If you cannot find this folder, you will either need to turn off hidden files and folders, or type the path in full into windows explorer.

Once in the Bigfoot Networks ProgramData folder, right-click the GameDetect.xml file and click "Edit".

From here, you'll see a section at the top that looks like this:

<GameDetectSettings>
     <ByPassSection>
     <ByPass>mozybackup.exe</ByPass>
     <ByPass>mozystat.exe</ByPass>
     <ByPass>mozyconfig.exe</ByPass>

All you need to do is add a new line right under the mozy stuff and replace it with your application .exe. So, it should look something like this:

<ByPass>GTA5.exe</ByPass>

Then save the file and exit, then you'll need to reboot. You should then be able to connect to your game.

 

Legacy Products and Instability With Online Games

 

Instability When Playing Certain Games on Killer 2100 / E2100 / Xeno Pro

Please note that this KB article only pertains to legacy products. If you are encountering a stability issue that you believe is connected to a currently supported Killer Network Adapter (Killer E2200, E2400, E2500, and all Wireless adapters), please make sure that you are running the latest Killer Control Center - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and, if that does not solve the issue, please contact support so that we may help you further. 

The Killer 2100/Xeno Pro employed a LSP (Layered Service Provider). While this is beneficial in allowing the Killer software to enable offload and lower latency, it has been found to be incompatable with some games, thus creating instability or crashes. If you are experiencing any crashes while playing games, it is recommended that you 'unmap' the LSP. Prioritization and other Killer freatures will continue to function.

Note: The Killer Network Manager application will warn you on each startup that the LSP is unmapped. You should choose 'no' to remapping. There is not currently a workaround to prevent the Network Manager from throwing this message.

This is done with the following steps:

Start an administrative command prompt and type these commands:

cd "\Program Files\Bigfoot Networks\Killer Network Manager"
killertool -lsp-unmap

 

Devices in USB Port on the Killer Xeno Pro Do Not Function

 

USB Devices Plugged into the USB Port on the Killer Xeno Pro Do Not Function

This behavior is by design. The USB port on the Killer NIC is only accessible from FNApps that run on the card itself. The only physical connection accessible from Windows is the RJ-45 network port.

 

Legacy Products And Issues With The QQ Chat Application

 

Unable to Establish a Connection with the QQ Chat Application

After opening QQ Chat, from the “Applications” tab of the Killer Network Manager, click on the QQ Chat process. Switch the priority from 1 to either 2, 3, or 4. This will allow the application to connect as normal.

 Please note that this KB article only pertains to legacy products. If you are encountering this issue with a currently supported Killer Network Adapter (Killer E2200, E2400, E2500, and all Wireless adapters), please make sure that you are running the latest Killer Control Center - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and, if that does not solve the issue, please contact support so that we may help you further. 

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.