Slow Ethernet Upload (1.0 Mbps or less after Windows Update)

 

Slow Ethernet Upload

Some users may experience issues with slow upload (usually 1.0 Mbps, or near there) with Ethernet connections, especially after updating to Windows 10 1803 (April 2018 Update). This can typically be resolved by uninstalling and reinstalling the Killer Control Center after the Windows 10 1803 update. Here is the step by step:

  1. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe
  2. Download the installer for the Killer Control Center that is best for your version of Windows 10. You can check this by clicking Start, then type winver and press Enter.
  3. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. When it is finished, it will say RESTART REQUIRED.
  4. Restart your computer by clicking Power > Start > Restart
  5. Once your computer has restarted, run the Killer Control Center installer that you downloaded, and follow the prompts to complete the install.

Please note that the Killer Software Uninstaller removes files and folders from previous installations that will not be removed simply by uninstalling old versions.

If you wish to know more about the differences between the two versions of the Killer Control Center, please see this article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/100-which-killer-control-center-should-i-install

 

Killer Control Center Does Not Automatically Start

 

Killer Control Center Does Not Automatically Start

We have made the decision to not have the Killer Control Center start with Windows when we made the move into the Windows Store. This is due to the wishes of some of our hardware partners. However, you can restore that functionality by following these steps: 

  1. ​​Right-click Start
  2. Click ​Run
  3. ​Type ​shell:startup​ and press Enter
  4. Move the Startup window to the right side of your screen
  5. Click Start
  6. Locate the Killer Control Center
  7. Click and drag the Killer Control Center icon over to the Startup window
  8. Right-click the Killer Control Center shortcut that you have created in the Startup window and click ​Properties
  9. Click the drop-down box beside "Run" and change it to ​Minimized​
  10. Click Apply
  11. Click OK
  12. Close the Startup window

The Killer Control Center will now run at startup, minimized. If you prefer it not be minimized, you can leave "Run" set to Normal Window. You can use this same procedure to set any application to run at startup.

Prompts to Update Killer Control Center

 

Prompt to Update Killer Control Center

Users may see a prompt to update the Killer Control Center. This prompt is caused by a Windows Update that was not instigated by us but, nevertheless, targeted systems that came with the Killer Control Center preinstalled. Unfortunately, if you are here, you have probably already noticed that this prompt does not include any instructions on exactly how to update the Killer Control Center. 

The best way to eliminate this prompt is to manually update the Killer Control Center from our website. Here are the steps:

  1. If you are using Windows 10 and don't already know which build, find out which build of Windows that your machine is currently running. If your computer has completed the Windows 10 Spring 2018 update, you are running version 1803. Otherwise, or if you don't know, continue reading.
    1. Click Start
    2. Type winver and press Enter
    3. A box will appear with some information about Windows. There will be a 'Version" number. It will probably be either 1709 or 1803. 
  2. Download the correct installer for your version of Windows.
    1. Windows 7, Windows 8.1, and Windows 10 Version 1709 and below should download this installer - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64
    2. Windows 10 Version 1803 and above should download this installer - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/kcc-uwd
  3. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe
  4. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. It is not necessary to scan, and the scan may not find anything. Regardless, click Remove Killer Software, and give it some time to run. When it is finished, it will say "RESTART REQUIRED."
  5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  6. Once your machine has booted back up, run the installer that you downloaded for the Killer Control Center. Follow the prompts to complete the installation.

You should now have the latest Killer Control Center and device drivers installed, and should no longer see the update prompt. 

How to Update or Install The Killer Control Center

2.5 

Updating or Installing The Killer Control Center

The Killer Control Center installers contain drivers for the Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500. The Killer Control Center can be installed on any system with one, or multiples of these network adapters. It cannot be installed on machines with the E2100, Xeno Pro, 2100, M1, or K1. These are legacy devices that are no longer supported, and no longer receive driver updates. 

Click here to jump to troubleshooting steps.

The first step in updating or installing the Killer Control Center is download the correct installer package. There are currently two different Killer Control Center installers:

Choosing the Correct Installer

Those using Windows 7, Windows 8.1, and any version of Windows 10 prior to 1803 (April 2018 Update) should use this installer - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64

Those using Windows 10 1803 (April 2018 Update) or later should use this installer - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/kcc-uwd

If you are using Windows 10, and you are unsure which version you are running, you can find out by clicking Start, then typing winver and pressing Enter. A box will appear, which will give you information about Windows, including the version number. 

For more details on the differences between the two packages, please see this article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/100-which-killer-control-center-should-i-install

Once you know which version to download, and have downloaded it, double-click the installer to install both the latest drivers for your Killer devices, and the latest version of the Killer Control Center. 

If all goes well, you can stop here. 

Errors or Other Issues When Installing

If you encounter any errors or problems when installing, first try uninstalling all versions of the Killer Software that are currently on your machine. We have developed a tool to make this very simple. Please follow the steps below:

  1. Download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool - https://www.killernetworking.com/support/KillerSoftwareUninstaller.exe (please note that this is not the old Killer Remover tool - this is much more comprehensive)
  2. Make sure you have the installer for the Killer Control Center that you will be installing. Return here if you aren't sure. 
  3. Run the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool. There are two buttons - one for scanning, one for uninstalling. You do not have to scan. The scan might not find any software installations, but there may still be services installed on your machine that are preventing the installation of the current suite. Regardless of what the scan says, if you are having issues installing, make sure you click Remove Killer Software. When it is finished, it will say "RESTART REQUIRED"
  4. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  5. Once your machine has completed restarting, run the installer for the Killer Control Center. 

If you are still unable to install the Killer Control Center, please try using Microsoft's tool for fixing problems that block programs from being installed or removed. You can find our guide for using this tool here - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/90-microsoft-tool. This tool is very effective because, if you are still having problems by this point, the issue is very likely caused by files that have been shuffled around during a Windows Update. 

If the Microsoft Tool does not solve the issue, please submit a ticket to our support, along with an install log for us to analyze, by following these steps:

  1. Run the installer for the Killer Control Center one more time, so as to create the most recent possible information in the install log.
  2. After the installer fails, access your TEMP folder by clicking Start, then typing %TEMP%, then pressing Enter.
  3. Arrange the files in that folder by "Date Modified" so that the most recently modified files are at the top.
  4. You will see many files. Find the most recent file that begins with MSI and ends with .LOG. Move or copy that file to a place you will remember.
  5. Click Support > Contact Support at the top of our website, and be sure to click the folder and attach that .LOG file. In your ticket, please also mention any errors that you might have seen when attempting to install the Killer Control Center. 

Which Killer Control Center Should I Install?

 

Which Killer Control Center Should I Install?

Users may notice that we often host more than one version of the Killer Control Center available for download from our website. This article will summarize the difference between the versions available, and hopefully give the user an idea of which installer they should download and use. 

A note on device compatibility  -  All versions of the Killer Control Center support all Killer Wireless adapters, as well as the E2200, E2400, and E2500. The E2100, 2100, K1, M1, and Xeno Pro are legacy devices, and no longer receive driver updates.
A note on the Killer Network Manager - The Killer Network Manager is our deprecated performance suite. It does not contain current drivers. Users are free to use the Killer Network Manager if they like, but, as it is no longer in development, the first step in troubleshooting should be to uninstall the Killer Network Manager and install the Killer Control Center.
A note on finding your Windows version number - You will see Windows version numbers referenced in the following information. You can find your Windows version by clicking Start, then type winver and press Enter. You will see a box with information about your Windows install, including the Version, which is probably 1709 or 1803, as of June 5 2018. 

The current Killer Control Center versions are as follows, as of June 5, 2018:

What is this? This is our previous release, which was well tested and troublefree on Windows builds 1709 (Fall Creator's Update) and 1803 (April 2018 Update). This package contains the latest drivers for all Killer Networking devices, except for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, as well as the Killer Control Center performance suite. The included driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is not known to be problematic, but our other package includes a more recent driver for this device.

What's new from the previous release? A new, updated driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550. 

Who should use this?  All Killer Network adapter owners who are using Windows 7 and Windows 8.1, as well as those using Windows 10, who have not yet updated to Version 1803 (Windows Spring Update), or who would prefer to not install the Killer Control Center through the Windows Store. 

What if this will not install? Click here for troubleshooting steps and scroll to the bottom to Errors or Other Issues When Installing

Special conditions for this release: Unlike the other package, this release uses a regular installer, and does not go through the Windows Store.

 

 

Killer Software Package - with Wireless xTend for Killer 1550 Version 1.7.1016
Release Notes

What is this? This version is a major update. This is our most recent release, which has been tested primarily with Windows 10 version 1803 (April 2018 Update). This package contains the latest drivers for all Killer Networking devices, as well as the Killer Control Center performance suite. The installer will first install device drivers, and then redirect to the Windows Store to install the Killer Control Center software. Please note that the version number listed here is the version of the installer. The version of the Killer Control Center that the Windows Store installs will be different. 

What's new from the previous release? A new, updated driver for the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, the debut release of Wireless xTend for Killer 1550, and many other minor enhancements that are too numerous to list. Wireless xTend for Killer 1550 allows owners of the Killer 1550 to turn their machines into wireless access points, xTending the range of the currently connected wireless network through their computer. 

Who should use this?  All Killer Networking adapter owners who are using Windows 10 version 1803 (April 2018 Update). Those using the Windows Insider Preview versions of Windows 10 are also encouraged to use this version, and provide us with any feedback, should you encounter any issues.

What if this will not install?  Click here for troubleshooting steps and scroll to the bottom to Errors or Other Issues When Installing. If you are unable to install this version, please try installing version 1.5.1859 above after submitting your install log. It is important that you submit your install log before installing 1.5.1859, or the install log will reflect the results of that install instead of reflecting the results of your attempted install of 1.7.1016. 

Special conditions for this release: This version will install on versions of Windows 10 that are older than version 1803 (April 2018 Update), but many things will not function well. We highly recommend installing this version only on Windows 10 version 1803. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact support directly by clicking Contact Support under Support at the top of this webpage. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No Killer Network Interfaces Connected

 

A few things can cause the Killer Control Center to report error. Following are the most common, and how to correct the issue:

  • You are connecting to the Internet using a network adapter other than a Killer product. Some machines ship with network adapters from multiple vendors. For example, your machine may have a Killer Ethernet adapter, but the wireless adapter may be from a different manufacturer, such as Intel. The Killer Control Center will not work with another brand's networking adapter. Be sure that you are connecting to the Internet using the Killer network adapter. Our performance suites only work connected to the Internet with our products. If your Ethernet adapter is a Killer Networking adapter, and your wireless adapter is not, then you will need to use an Ethernet cable to use the Killer Control Center. You can check to see which adapters you have installed by right-clicking Start, then clicking Device Manager, then double-clicking Network Adapters. If the only Killer Network adapter is listed as an Ethernet adapter, then you will need to use an Ethernet cable to use the Killer Control Center.
  • You are using an older version of the Killer Control Center. Some recent versions of the Killer Control Center experienced issues identifying some adapters. This has been resolved in current versions of the suite. Updating to the latest suite should resolve the issue. Even if you have a new machine, the version of the software that was installed on it when it was boxed may now be out of date. You can find the latest Killer Control Center here - http://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64.
  • You are not connected to the Internet. You will receive this error if you are not connected to the Internet using a Killer Networking adapter. Note that if you are connected to the Internet using a virtual adapter of any kind, even if that virtual adapter is attached to a Killer Networking adapter, the Killer Control Center will show this message as it cannot work with a virtual adapter. 
  • You recently installed or updated the Killer Control Center and have not rebooted your computer. Rebooting should resolve the issue. Please note that, to restart, you should click Start > Power > Restart, as simply closing the lid, or pressing the power button on many modern computers activates sleep mode, and does not actually power down the machine. 
  • You are using a virtual network adapter. The Killer Control Center can only work if you are connecting to the Internet using a Killer Networking Adapter. If you are connecting to the Internet using a virtual adapter, the Killer Control Center will not work, and will show this message instead. 

If you are seeing this message and none of the above applies, please reach out to support, using the link below. Please be sure to include a diagnostic with your support request. With the latest Killer Control Center installed, you can find Killer Diagnostics in your Windwos start menu, under Killer Networking. Please run the application, save the output file, and attach it to your support request.

Error 1923 Verify That You Have Sufficient Privileges and Error 1939

4.8 

Error 1923 Verify That You Have Sufficient Privileges and Error 1939

Some users may encounter the error Error 1923: Verify that you have sufficient privileges to install system services and/or Error 1939 when they attempt to update or install the Killer Control Center. This is caused by the installer not being able to remove the previous version of the service. This appears to be due to the moving of files by the Spring 2018 Windows Features Update. There were also some updates that were incorrectly pushed through Windows Update that have resulted in the Killer Control Center being left in this state. In order to resolve this issue, you will need to uninstall the old version of the Killer Control Center, remove the service, and then run the installer again. We have developed a new tool, which will quickly and easily remove all old versions of our performance suite, as well as all old versions of our service from your system. 

A few notes about the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool:

  • This is not the Killer Remover tool that you might find elsewhere on the web and in this knowledge base. This is a brand new tool that we have just recently developed due to this issue. The old Killer Remover tool is not capable of resolving this issue, as it only targets pieces of installs that were broken by Windows Feature Updates prior to the 2017 Fall Creator's Update. 
  • This tool does not remove device drivers, other than what would normally be removed when running the uninstaller for the suite that you have currently installed. This tool primarily removes the Killer Performance Suite, and its attachments to Windows Update. 

Here are the steps to correct the Error 1923, Error 1939, or any other issue where Windows Update has put your machine in a state where you cannot install the Killer Control Center:

  1. Click here to download the latest Killer Control Center installer from our website. 
  2. Click here to download the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool (Updated May 24, 2018)
  3. Double-click the Killer Software Uninstaller Tool to run it.
  4. Click the Remove Killer Software button. This process may take some time.
  5. When the tool has finished removing everything, it will prompt you to restart your machine. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
  6. Double-click the Killer Control Center installer and follow the prompts to install. 

Please note - some machines will stil show pending Windows Updates with "Killer" and/or "Rivet" in them. Now that you have removed the previous install, and installed the website version, these updates now refer to software that is not present on your system. They should either attempt to install, fail, and no longer show as "pending," or simply be removed from the list of pending updates. If these updates cause issues after you have installed the Killer Control Center from our website, please let us know!

If you have any further issues, please feel free to contact support directly by clicking Contact Support under Support at the top of the page!

 

A Generic Error Occurred in GDI+ / Unhandled Exception

 

A Generic Error Occurred in GDI+ / Unhandled Exception

Some users may encounter an error when they attempt to open the Killer Control Center which reads, "A generic error occurred in GDI+" or "Unhandled Exception Error," at which point the Killer Control Center will either crash, or not load. 

This issue can be resolved by updating to the latest Killer Control Center. If you are already using the latest Killer Control Center, this issue can be resolved by reinstalling the suite. The procedure is the same. Here are the steps:

  1. Make sure you have a copy of the latest installer handy - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, and then find every "Killer" application listed, click, and click Uninstall. This includes any and all "Killer Performance Driver Suite" and any variation. Make sure you are also uninstalling the Killer Network Manager, as the Killer Network Manager is not meant to be run with the Killer Control Center. The Killer Control Center replaces the Killer Network Manager.
  3. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  4. Once your machine has booted back up, access the temp directory by clicking Start and typing %temp% and pressing Enter.
  5. Delete the contents of this folder. These are temporary files that are meant to be deleted from time to time - you cannot harm anything by deleting all of these files. You may not be able to delete some of these files. It is okay to "Skip All" for these files.
  6. Using the File Manager, delete the folder that contained the Killer Control Center. By default, this folder is C:\Program Files\Killer Networking. You can delete the entire folder Killer Networking. If you cannot find this folder, you may have chosen a different install location, or you may be using software that automatically cleans any leftover files.
  7. Double-click the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. and follow the prompts to complete install.
  8. Restart your machine.
  9. Test to see if the issue is resolved.

Killer Control Center Does Not Save Speeds / Asks Every Reboot

 

Killer Control Center Does Not Save Speeds / Asks Every Reboot

Some users may encounter a situation where the Killer Control Center does not save the speeds that are input in Speed Limits in the Settings menu, resulting in a pop-up at every restart, asking the user to set speeds. 

This issue can be resolved by updating to the latest Killer Control Center. If you are already using the latest Killer Control Center, this issue can be resolved by reinstalling the suite. The procedure is the same. Here are the steps:

  1. Make sure you have a copy of the latest installer handy - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, and then find every "Killer" application listed, click, and click Uninstall. This includes any and all "Killer Performance Driver Suite" and any variation. Make sure you are also uninstalling the Killer Network Manager, as the Killer Network Manager is not meant to be run with the Killer Control Center. The Killer Control Center replaces the Killer Network Manager.
  3. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  4. Once your machine has booted back up, access the temp directory by clicking Start and typing %temp% and pressing Enter.
  5. Delete the contents of this folder. These are temporary files that are meant to be deleted from time to time - you cannot harm anything by deleting all of these files. You may not be able to delete some of these files. It is okay to "Skip All" for these files.
  6. Using the File Manager, delete the folder that contained the Killer Control Center. By default, this folder is C:\Program Files\Killer Networking. You can delete the entire folder Killer Networking. If you cannot find this folder, you may have chosen a different install location, or you may be using software that automatically cleans any leftover files.
  7. Double-click the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. and follow the prompts to complete install.
  8. Restart your machine.
  9. Test to see if the issue is resolved.

Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps

4.1 

Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps

You may find that your Ethernet speed is capped at 100 Mbps when your Internet Service Provider, or your internal network connection, should be providing speeds greater than 100 Mbps. If this is the case, you may be encountering a link speed issue. To check for this, check the link speed on the machine in question by following these steps:

  • Search Control Panel with Windows Search and press Enter
  • Click Network and Internet
  • Click View network status and tasks which will be underneath Network and Sharing Center
  • Click the connection that represents the Ethernet connection to your router or modem. You should see a screen that looks something like this.

link speed

Notice that the link "Speed" here reads as 100 Mbps. This means that the negotiated connection speed between the Ethernet adapter and whatever device it is plugged into is 100 Mbps. When everything is working correctly, this speed will read as 1.0 Gbps.

The only setting that is of concern for a Gigabit connection is that the adapter is set to Auto-Negotiate. From the Device Manager, you can check to see that the Killer adapter is set on Auto-Negotiate. This option is under the Advanced tab of the adapter's properties, in Speed & Duplex - right-click the adapter and choose properties, click the Advanced tab, and click Speed & Duplex, and make sure it is set to Auto-Negotiate. This is the default setting. We have had reports of some ISP technicians telling their customers that a Gigabit option will appear in this setting if the network adapter is working correctly. This is incorrect. Auto-Negotiate is the correct setting for Gigabit speeds in Speed & Duplex for Killer Networking Adapters.

If this is set correctly and your link speed still reads as 100 Mbps, then the issue could be a few things, although it is important to note up front that this is almost always an issue with an Ethernet cable. Even if you firmly believe that your Ethernet cabling is perfectly fine, and even if this cabling worked fine before, swapping it out for another, proven cable, or a brand new Cat 6 cable, will almost certainly solve the issue with the minimum of troubleshooting and headache. This is a very, very common occurrence when troubleshooting Gigabit Ethernet, and it nearly always comes down to one cable being the culprit. Note that this includes all cabling between the machine and the router, including any cabling in before and after any switches, or on the other side of any wall jacks, and behind the wall. However, if you were getting Gigabit using a particular setup and suddenly, with no changes whatsoever, your link speed is now 100 Mbps, then it's probably only one cable that is now having issues, and it is likely one that is exposed.

The fastest way to rule out any problems with anything other than cabling is to connect your machine directly into your modem with a single, proven Cat 6 or better Ethernet cable, and preferably into a proven Gigabit capable port, then check the link speed. If the link speed shows as 1.0 Gbps, then you know that the problem is somewhere in what you have just bypassed. Using this method of troubleshooting can be a pain if you are not dealing with a laptop, but it might still be worth doing if you have to decide if you need to call a contractor out to look at wiring behind your walls. Note that very long Ethernet cords are available for purchase, with lengths of over 200 feet or 60 meters, are available, so if you are involved in a prolonged debate with a technician over link speeds, this might be the simplest way to provide a temporary, single cable connection from your machine to the modem. 

That said, all adapters are different and handle shorts or issues with cables or ports differently, but a Gigabit adapter reporting as 100 Mbps is almost certainly a physical issue with the networking equipment.

You can troubleshoot this by trying different combinations:

  • If you cannot connect your machine to the modem with a single, proven Cat 6 cable, maybe you can connect a machine whose link speed currently shows as 1 Gbps to the Ethernet cable that is currently plugged into the problem machine. If this second machine now shows a link speed of 100 Mbps, this also proves that the issue is somewhere in the cabling or equipment between the machine and the access point, not with the machine itself. 
  • Power cycle (unplug and plug back in) your access point (hub, switch, router) and any other device between your machine and the access point.
  • Cat 6 is preferred to Cat 5e as, although the latter is technically capable of gigabit connections, it lacks any redundancies in grounding, which is an extremely common point of failure in network cables. Cat 6 remedies this issue, and making sure that all of your cabling is Cat 6 or better is usually a surefire way to achieve a gigabit connection. 
  • A "failed" Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable will usually still work at 100 Mbps. It doesn't take much physical trauma for a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps, and many of the cheaper ones don't support 1 Gbps out of the bag, even though they will be labeled as supported 1 Gbps connections. If you have only tried a Cat 5e cable, you owe it to yourself to try a Cat 6 cable. This is almost certainly the issue. If you are having issues achieving Gigabit speeds and you have Cat 5e cables in the mix then it is safe to assume that those specific Cat 5e cables are not Gigabit capable. This is common. Incidents such as rolling over the cable with an office chair, or stepping on it, or closing a door on it, can all cause a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps link speeds when it was previously working at Gigabit speeds.
  • Try different ports on your access point (hub, switch, router). If possible, use a port that is proven capable of working at Gigabit speeds with another machine. 
  • If all of these fail, then likely the Ethernet connector on the mainboard has an issue and you would need to check with your PC manufacturer (or mainboard manufacturer, if you assembled the machine yourself) on what your warranty or RMA options are. You may want to perform a physical inspection on the Ethernet jack's pins to make sure that none of them are bent or otherwise damaged. It is worth stressing once more, though, that this issue is nearly always one with the cabling somewhere between the Ethernet jack on your machine, and the Ethernet jack for the modem.

E2100, 2100, Xeno Pro, K1, and M1 (Legacy Devices)

 

The E2100, 2100, and Xeno Pro are legacy devices, and no longer receive updated device drivers. Please contact the manufacturer of your Killer 2100, Killer E2100, or Xeno Pro for the latest drivers. The same driver (either 32bit or 64bit) works for each product. It has been confirmed that the latest drivers for Killer 2100, Killer E2100, or Xeno Pro can be downloaded on VisionTek’s support page at: https://www.visiontek.com/support/download-drivers.html. If you are using Windows 10, and Windows does not automatically install drivers for the device, the Windows 8.1 drivers should work for your application.

There is no Windows 10 driver for the E2100, 2100 and Xeno Pro, and there will be no further driver development.

Support is no longer available for the Killer M1 and Killer K1. 

Internet Problems With New Computers

5.0 

Internet Problems With New Computers

This article only applies to brand new computers using Windows 10.

Some users may experience issues with brand new computers with Killer Network adapters and the Killer Control Center or Killer Network Manager preinstalled. 

These issues are often caused by Windows automatically updating to the latest version of the operating system without giving the user the chance to update any preinstalled software or device drivers. This results in software, which was likely up to date at the time the machine was boxed by the manufacturer, running on a version of the operating system on which it was never tested, and may not be able to operate on correctly.

If the user notices that, after Windows has updated, their Internet performance is severely degraded, or they see bluescreen errors that are attributed to our software or drivers, they should uninstall the Killer Control Center or Killer Network Manager, make sure Windows is fully updated, and then install the latest version of the Killer Control Center

Here is the step-by-step:

  1. Right-click Start
  2. Click Apps and Features
  3. Find "Killer Performance Driver Suite" or any variation or variations, and uninstall it or them, restarting when required. 
  4. If a restart was not requested, restart your machine now by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Avoid using the power button on your computer, as it is likely mapped to sleep the machine, which will not work for this purpose.
  5. Windows 10 will install a basic set of drivers. This does not include any of the latency reducing and bandwidth prioritizing features of your Killer networking adapter, but it will serve to let you update everything. The only exceptions are the Killer Wireless-AC 1535 and the Killer Wireless-AC 1550.
    1. There may not be a built-in driver in Windows 10 for the 1535 if the machine is still on the original release build of Windows 10 when the user uninstalls the Killer Control Center. This is unlikely, as you will likely not have access to uninstall anything before Windows has updated itself well beyond this point. 
    2. The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 was released in 2018 and, as such, no version of Windows 10 previous to this time will have built-in drivers. 
  6. Make sure your BIOS and chipset drivers, at least, are up to date from your machine manufacturer's support site. 
  7. Make sure Windows 10 is fully up to date. To do this:
    1. Click Start
    2. Type Windows Update and press Enter
    3. Click Check for Updates
    4. Let your computer install whatever updates it finds. 
    5. Once it is finished, restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart, even if it has not asked you to do so.
    6. Repeat steps A through E until your machine finds no updates just after restarting.
  8. Download the latest Killer Control Center package, which also contains the latest drivers for your Killer network adapters - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/item/killer-control-center-x64 - and double-click to install. 
  9. If you notice any issues with your Bluetooth, and you have a Killer Wireless adapter (Killer 1435, 1535, 1525, 1550) download and install the latest Bluetooth driver from our website - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/category/bluetooth.
  10. If your wireless access point (router or modem) seems to struggle with a new Killer Wireless adapter, either slowing down, restarting, or freezing, please first try unplugging the access point and plugging it back in. If that does not resolve the issue, the device likely needs a firmware update. For a wireless router that you own, please see the support for our specific device. For a wireless modem that is owned by your ISP, please contact your ISP and request that they update the firmware on your modem. 
  11. If you have a wireless router that continues to reset when the 1535 connects to it, even after you have updated the firmware, please see this article - https://www.killernetworking.com/driver-downloads/kb/faq/35-router-issues-with-1535.

If you encounter any further issues with your Killer adapters, please do not hesitate to contact us directly!

 

Wi-Fi or Bluetooth Missing

4.0 

Bluetooth or Wi-Fi Missing

Note: This guide can be used in the event of any M.2 device vanishing from the Device Manager. The procedure lists Killer devices specifically, but the phenomenon is widespread among M.2 devices and Windows 10, and these same steps can be used to restore functionality when any M.2 device disappears from Device Manager.

When this occurs, it is an issue of the BIOS or the operating system not enumerating the device properly. In very rare situations, it can be cause by some kind of physical trauma causing the device to become dislodged, or the device failing, but more often than not, the hardware is just fine. It’s just a matter of getting Windows or, sometimes, the BIOS, to see it again. Sometimes the device will be missing altogether, or sometimes it will be grayed out - the difference is only in whether your Device Manager is set to show devices that are no longer present in the machine. Either way, the Device Manager thinks that the device is gone, and that is what needs to be addressed.

  • First off, make sure that you do not have any USB devices disabled. The internal Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapter is actually USB device, so if there are any USB devices disabled in your Device Manager, for any reason, this can cause the Bluetooth device to vanish. If you are unable to enable the USB device, then you should resolve that issue first. This includes USB Hub devices, or any devices under the Universal Serial Bus controllers category in Device Manager that show any errors, for any reason. On some platforms, this is the #1 cause of Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapters mysteriously vanishing from the Device Manager. Once you have resolved the USB issue, restart your machine, and check to see if the missing device has reappeared in your Device Manager. If you have recently plugged anything new into a USB port on your machine, unplug it and see if the error goes away in Device Manager. That USB device may be malfunctioning.  If there is nothing to remove, try these steps:
    • Right-click on the entry and click Enable, if applicable. If the only option is Disable, then the entry was already enabled.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Update Driver > Search Automatically for Updated Driver.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Uninstall Device > Uninstall, and then restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
    • Visit your machine or mainboard's support page and update your BIOS, chipset drivers, and USB drivers (if listed). 
    • Discharging the machine can also be helpful in clearing USB error codes. 

Once you no longer have any disabled USB devices, the Bluetooth device should show back up. 

USB Error

  • If you do not have any disabled USB devices, or any with errors, or if you have resolved that issue and the Wi-Fi or Bluetooth adapter has not reappeared in the Device Manager, then you will still need to update your chipset drivers, and possibly your machine or mainboard’s BIOS, if you haven't already. We have noted that some platforms have chipset drivers that are buggy enough that they absolutely will experience this issue if their chipset drivers are not updated. You will need to obtain these drivers from your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support download page. You can usually find this page by going to the main website for your machine or mainboard manufacturer and looking under "Support", or by using your preferred search engine to search for your specific model, then selecting the result that leads to your machine or mainboard manufacturer's website. Once you have found the support downloads page, if you cannot tell which drivers are the chipset drivers, it is generally recommended that you simply update all of the offered drivers, except for the Killer Network card drivers, which you should get from us, as they are likely more recent. If there is a BIOS update available, then updating the BIOS is also recommended, especially if the BIOS update notes mention anything that might pertain to this situation. Make certain that you at least update the chipset and USB drivers, if applicable. Some platforms combine the USB drivers into the chipset drivers, so you may not see a separate download. Once you have done these updates, restart the machine, and see if the missing device reappears in the Device Manager.
  • Depending on what is available, the best order in which to update is as follows:
    1. Update your BIOS from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    2. Update your chipset drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    3. Update the USB drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page.  If none are listed, they are probably rolled into the chipset driver. 
    4. Update all other drivers available from your machine or mainboard's support page, except Killer Networking and Bluetooth drivers, which you should get from us.
    5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  • Windows itself can also play a part in the disappearing device. The Anniversary Update saw many such devices vanish, so much so that the Creator’s Update added a Bluetooth troubleshooter to Windows 10. Make sure that your Windows installation is up to date by using Windows Search to search Windows Update

    windows update

    then press Enter, and click Check for Updates

  • Once it has downloaded and installed everything it finds, restart the machine, and repeat this process until Windows Update finds no updates directly after restarting. Once this happens, check to see if the device has reappeared in the Device Manager. If this doesn’t help, and the issue is Bluetooth related, you can try troubleshooting using Windows built-in troubleshooter. Microsoft has instructions here - https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/14169/windows-10-fix-bluetooth-problems-faq
  • Discharging the machine - If the device is still missing from the Device Manager, then that means that it isn’t the chipset drivers (or at least it isn’t only the chipset drivers) that is not properly enumerating the device, but rather the BIOS itself. In this case, you will need to discharge the machine to force the BIOS to re-enumerate all of its hardware (instructions below). Before you do this, make sure that you have updated the BIOS to the latest version, from the mainboard or machine manufacturer’s website, so that you address the flaw that caused this issue in the first place. Once that BIOS update is in place, and you have confirmed that the machine has booted back up, but the device is still not appearing in Device Manager, shut the machine back down, and unplug it from the wall. You will now need to fully discharge the machine.
    • If this is a desktop, you will need to remove the side panel, discharge yourself of static electricity on something metal (your computer’s case might work, or possibly your desk) and look for the CMOS battery. It is a large coin-cell battery. Remove that battery. Sometimes it’s easier with a flathead screwdriver, but it should be fairly simple to remove. Once you have removed that battery, press the power button on the machine 2-3 times to completely discharge it, then replace the CMOS battery and the case. If you are not comfortable doing this on your own, please refer to your mainboard or machine's support. 
    • If this is a laptop, hopefully it is one where you can easily remove the battery. This will be specific to your model of laptop, so you may need to refer to your owner’s manual, or your laptop’s support website. Some MSI models are held in with a single screw. If you are able to remove the laptop battery, do so, and then press the laptop’s power button a few times to fully discharge it.
    • If this is a laptop, but you are unable to remove the battery, or would prefer not to, you can discharge the machine through usage, instead. Unplug the laptop from the electric outlet, and temporarily change the power plan to a setting that does not allow it to sleep when the battery is low, then run the laptop until it discharges itself and will no longer power on. Once it has discharged itself, press the power button a few times to make sure it is fully discharged.
    • Once you have a fully discharged machine, put it back together, plug it back in, and let it boot in to Windows. You may see a message mentioning setting the BIOS to defaults, or something along those lines. This is nothing to be alarmed about – simply confirm that you want it set to defaults, unless you had set custom settings, in which case, you will need to re-set those custom settings. In the future, this message may be a warning that your CMOS or laptop battery is dead or on its last legs, but for now, we know that you discharged the machine on purpose, so we can safely ignore this warning. Once you are booted back in to Windows, check the Device Manager to make sure that the missing Wi-Fi or Bluetooth device is no longer missing.
  • In some very rare cases, the device may not show up because the machine was not fully discharged. We have had users report that they were able to repeat the steps to discharge their machines a second time, and have had success after that. Once the updates were in place, and the devices shows up, that is usually the end of the problem.

One final step that you can take, if you are willing and able to do so, is to physically reseat your Wi-Fi adapter. The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth device are on the same card, so there is only one adapter to reseat, and reseating this adapter only requires that you remove one screw, slide it out of the slot, then slide it back in and screw it back down, being careful not to dislodge or damage the attached antenna leads. However, the difficulty in getting to this adapter and performing this step will vary depending on your machine or mainboard, and your level of expertise. You may wish to consult with your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support at this point. If you have followed all of the other steps, and the device still has not reappeared, the device, or the mainboard, may also be physically damaged, and in need of repair, which would also necessitate contacting your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support for RMA or repair options.  

How Do I Avoid Breaking Antenna Cables When Changing M.2 Adapters?

 

How Do I Avoid Breaking Antenna Cables When Changing M.2 Adapters?

Please note that any time you choose to change your Wi-Fi module, or any of your machine's hardware, you do so at your own risk and liability. 

M.2 WiFi modules and their connectors continue to get smaller as system providers continue to make thinner notebooks. This makes it much more difficult to disconnect the antenna lead from the module by hand when changing M.2 adapters. In order to properly disconnect the antenna from the module, all wireless module makers now recommend using a specially designed tool. For the Killer Wireless AC modules, we recommend using an IPEX MHF4L 90609-0001. This will greatly reduce the chance of damage to the wireless module connector or to the antenna connector.

If you are unable to obtain such a tool, be sure you pull the antenna leads straight up off of the connectors, to avoid breaking the connectors off of the card. Using a jeweler's or eyeglass repair screwdriver to very gently pull upward on the connector from beneath is best. When attaching antenna leads without a tool, try placing the adapter on a flat surface, lining the leads up on the receptacles, and then pressing down firmly, but gently, with a flat object, so that even pressure is applied. You should hear or feel a click when the the connector goes into place. Very little pressure is required so, if you find yourself pushing hard, you may be damaging the antenna connectors!

If you have further questions, please email us at killersupport@rivetnetworks.com.

Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?

 

Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?

Users have asked if the E2500, E2400, and E2200 can be used wirelessly. These are Ethernet adapters, so they cannot be used wirelessly. They require an Ethernet cable to be connected to your machine, and to an Internet gateway, such as a modem or router.

Your machine may also come with a wireless adapter, which may or may not be a Killer Networking adapter. If the wireless adapter is not a Killer Networking adapter, the Killer Control Center will report "No Killer Network Interfaces Connected" when you are connected to the Internet with only the non-Killer adapter. This is normal, as the Killer Control Center can only be used with Killer Networking adapters. 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

5.0 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

Users may encounter a situation where their Killer Wireless-AC adapter will not connect to their FIOS router on the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band. 

This seems to be due to the FIOS routers automatically choosing specific DFS channels that they may not fully support. There are a multitude of reports about this phenomenon around the web - where certain devices can connect to them while others cannot - but this post explains it fairly well - https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/2tu2so/why_some_devices_cant_see_the_verizon_fios_g1100s.

Fortunately, the fix is simple:

  1. Log in to your FIOS router's setup page. This page explains how to do so with some FIOS routers. It may not include all models. You may have to seek assistance from your ISP. https://www.howtogeek.com/197382/how-to-change-the-wi-fi-channel-on-your-verizon-fios-router/
  2. Change your router's 5 GHz channel. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to find which channel has the least traffic, but changing to any channel that is not a DFS channel should allow your devices to connect. Channels 36-48 and 149-165 are non-DFS channels in the United States. Your area may vary. You can reference this chart to find out which channels are DFS channels, and which are not, in your area of the world - - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_WLAN_channels#5_GHz_(802.11a/h/j/n/ac/ax)
  3. Restart your machine, if necessary, and see if the issue is resolved. 

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.