Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps


Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps

You may find that your Ethernet speed is capped at 100 Mbps when your Internet Service Provider, or your internal network connection, should be providing speeds greater than 100 Mbps. If this is the case, you may be encountering a link speed issue. To check for this, check the link speed on the machine in question by following these steps:

  • Search Control Panel with Windows Search and press Enter
  • Click Network and Internet
  • Click View network status and tasks which will be underneath Network and Sharing Center
  • Click the connection that represents the Ethernet connection to your router or modem. You should see a screen that looks something like this.

link speed

Notice that the link "Speed" here reads as 100 Mbps. This means that the negotiated connection speed between the Ethernet adapter and whatever device it is plugged into is 100 Mbps. When everything is working correctly, this speed will read as 1.0 Gbps.

The only setting that is of concern for a Gigabit connection is that the adapter is set to Auto-Negotiate. From the Device Manager, you can check to see that the Killer adapter is set on Auto-Negotiate. This option is under the Advanced tab of the adapter's properties, in Speed & Duplex - right-click the adapter and choose properties, click the Advanced tab, and click Speed & Duplex, and make sure it is set to Auto-Negotiate. This is the default setting. We have had reports of some ISP technicians telling their customers that a Gigabit option will appear in this setting if the network adapter is working correctly. This is incorrect. Auto-Negotiate is the correct setting for Gigabit speeds in Speed & Duplex for Killer Networking Adapters.

If this is set correctly and your link speed still reads as 100 Mbps, then the issue could be a few things, although it is important to note up front that this is almost always an issue with an Ethernet cable. Even if you firmly believe that your Ethernet cabling is perfectly fine, and even if this cabling worked fine before, swapping it out for another, proven cable, or a brand new Cat 6 cable, will almost certainly solve the issue with the minimum of troubleshooting and headache. This is a very, very common occurrence when troubleshooting Gigabit Ethernet, and it nearly always comes down to one cable being the culprit. Note that this includes all cabling between the machine and the router, including any cabling in before and after any switches, or on the other side of any wall jacks, and behind the wall. However, if you were getting Gigabit using a particular setup and suddenly, with no changes whatsoever, your link speed is now 100 Mbps, then it's probably only one cable that is now having issues, and it is likely one that is exposed.

The fastest way to rule out any problems with anything other than cabling is to connect your machine directly into your modem with a single, proven Cat 6 or better Ethernet cable, and preferably into a proven Gigabit capable port, then check the link speed. If the link speed shows as 1.0 Gbps, then you know that the problem is somewhere in what you have just bypassed. Using this method of troubleshooting can be a pain if you are not dealing with a laptop, but it might still be worth doing if you have to decide if you need to call a contractor out to look at wiring behind your walls. Note that very long Ethernet cords are available for purchase, with lengths of over 200 feet or 60 meters, are available, so if you are involved in a prolonged debate with a technician over link speeds, this might be the simplest way to provide a temporary, single cable connection from your machine to the modem. 

That said, all adapters are different and handle shorts or issues with cables or ports differently, but a Gigabit adapter reporting as 100 Mbps is almost certainly a physical issue with the networking equipment.

You can troubleshoot this by trying different combinations:

  • If you cannot connect your machine to the modem with a single, proven Cat 6 cable, maybe you can connect a machine whose link speed currently shows as 1 Gbps to the Ethernet cable that is currently plugged into the problem machine. If this second machine now shows a link speed of 100 Mbps, this also proves that the issue is somewhere in the cabling or equipment between the machine and the access point, not with the machine itself. 
  • Power cycle (unplug and plug back in) your access point (hub, switch, router) and any other device between your machine and the access point.
  • Cat 6 is preferred to Cat 5e as, although the latter is technically capable of gigabit connections, it lacks any redundancies in grounding, which is an extremely common point of failure in network cables. Cat 6 remedies this issue, and making sure that all of your cabling is Cat 6 or better is usually a surefire way to achieve a gigabit connection. 
  • A "failed" Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable will usually still work at 100 Mbps. It doesn't take much physical trauma for a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps, and many of the cheaper ones don't support 1 Gbps out of the bag, even though they will be labeled as supported 1 Gbps connections. If you have only tried a Cat 5e cable, you owe it to yourself to try a Cat 6 cable. This is almost certainly the issue. If you are having issues achieving Gigabit speeds and you have Cat 5e cables in the mix then it is safe to assume that those specific Cat 5e cables are not Gigabit capable. This is common. Incidents such as rolling over the cable with an office chair, or stepping on it, or closing a door on it, can all cause a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps link speeds when it was previously working at Gigabit speeds.
  • Try different ports on your access point (hub, switch, router). If possible, use a port that is proven capable of working at Gigabit speeds with another machine. 
  • If all of these fail, then likely the Ethernet connector on the mainboard has an issue and you would need to check with your PC manufacturer (or mainboard manufacturer, if you assembled the machine yourself) on what your warranty or RMA options are. You may want to perform a physical inspection on the Ethernet jack's pins to make sure that none of them are bent or otherwise damaged. It is worth stressing once more, though, that this issue is nearly always one with the cabling somewhere between the Ethernet jack on your machine, and the Ethernet jack for the modem.

Issues When Updating or Installing Killer Control Center


Issues When Updating or Installing Killer Control Center

Users may encounter errors when installing or updating the Killer Control Center. 

If you encounter any problems, please select from the following options:



The Killer Control Center Cannot Automatically Update

 If the installer cannot automatically update, you might see an error, such as, but not limited to, this one:

Killer Performance Driver Suite Cannot Be Installed With

In this case, you will need to manually uninstall the previous versions. First, however, you will want to download the latest installer and have it handy. Once you have the installer ready to go, right-click Start, click Apps and Features, then find every entry that has "Killer" in it, including "Killer Drivers" and/or "Killer Performance Suite, or any variation, and uninstall them. After they have uninstalled, restart your machine, then install the latest suite.


Previous Killer Applications or Drivers Cannot Be Uninstalled
There Are No Killer Applications or Drivers in The Apps and Features Menu But the Killer Control Center Will Not Install

If you encounter an issue where the old "Killer Suite" or "Killer Drivers" cannot be uninstalled, and they remain stuck in your Apps and Features menu, or they appear to be removed, but the latest Killer Control Center appears to attempt to install, then roll back, then there are a few ways to address this. Even if you can no longer see the old applications in your Apps and Features menu, it is very likely that they are still there, and that they are the problem. For very old previous installs, especially those that may be broken by updates from Windows 7 to Windows 10, we have developed a tool that can remove the old installs. Here is a step-by-step guide on downloading and using the tool. Use this as your first step in troubleshooting a broken older install:

  1. Download the Killer Remover from here -
  2. Right-click Start and click Apps and Features.
  3. Uninstall all "Killer" suites and drivers that will uninstall from this menu. 
  4. Close the Apps and Features menu and double-click the Killer Remover.
  5. Once it is finished, it will prompt you to restart your machine. Restart your machine, and check to see if the stuck item is removed from the Apps and Features menu


The Application is Still Stuck or The Latest Package Still Cannot Install After I Have Run the Killer Remover

The Microsoft Installer is probably encountering an error from which it cannot recover. Sometimes, you will get an error, such as "The feature you are trying to use is on a network resource that is unavailable..." or some other seemingly unrelated error, or the installer may fail with no error given other than it could not complete. Luckily, Microsoft has a tool to fix this issue, and you can find our detailed, step-by-step guide on how to find and use Microsoft's tool for fixing problems that block programs from being installed or removed- Make sure you choose "Uninstalling" even if you are trying to ultimately install the latest suite, as the problem is that you need to remove the remaining parts of the old software, even if they do not appear in  your Apps and Features menu. 

If you still have issues with the Killer Control Center's installer, or uninstalling older versions of the suites, please contact support, and we will be happy to help. If the installer is failing, please run the installer one more time, and include the log that is generated in your temp folder. You can access your temp folder by pressing Windows Key + R, typing %TEMP%...


winkey r temp

...and pressing Enter.

From there, sort by Date, and attach the most recent MSI***.LOG to your support request. It should be dated at the time you last ran the installer.


You can reach support by clicking below. Please also include information on any troubleshooting that you have already done.

"This Device Cannot Start (Code 10)" in Device Manager


"This Device Cannot Start (Code 10)" in Device Manager

code 10 device cannot start

We have seen many Code 10 errors lately from machines where Windows 10 has automatically updated the drivers from older versions. These errors do not mean that your adapter has actually failed. This is an issue with Windows 10, and getting the proper drivers installed will correct the issue. 

First, try updating to the latest Killer Control Center, which contains the latest suite and drivers. You can find that download here -​. If you have any problems with the install, you can refer to our KB article on that subject here -​.

If you have no way of getting drivers onto the machine (no USB thumb drive, no other means of connecting to the Internet with this machine) then click here to jump down to the alternate guide to fixing Code 10 errors.

If you have installed the latest Killer Control Center and restarted the machine, and that did not clear the Code 10 error, you can usually clear it by cleaning out the driver store. Here are the steps to clear out the driver store, and install the latest driver:

  1. Make sure you have the latest Killer Control Center installer handy on the machine (you may need to use a USB thumb drive or some other medium if you can't access the Internet with the machine). 
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, find all entries with "Killer" in the title, and uninstall them. This includes "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" or any variations. You can hold off on restarting for now if an uninstaller says to do so.
  3. Close Apps and Features and right-click Start and click Device Manager
  4. Find the Ethernet adapter under the Network Adapters heading, right click it, and click Uninstall Device. If you cannot find it, you may need to click View > Show hidden devices at the top of Device Manager. It may also be listed somewhere other than under Network Adapters.
  5. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device if it is present.
  6. Click Uninstall.
  7. Click the light blue Scan for hardware changes icon at the top of Device Manager. The adapter will probably reappear, and may or may not still show a Code 10, but I would suggest continuing with this guide either way.
  8. Repeat steps 4-7 until you no longer have the option to Delete the driver software for this device. Note that you could keep doing this indefinitely, as Windows will always install a default driver, but once you can no longer Delete the driver software for this device, you have accomplished the goal of clearing out all of the drivers that we were trying to clear out, and so you're done by that point.
  9. Restart the computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Do not rely on the machine's power button as many modern computers have that button set to sleep, not power off. 
  10. Once the machine has restarted, run the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. If everything doesn't look perfect, restart the machine after the installation, even if the installer did not say to do so. 



The Alternate Guide to Fixing Code 10 Errors

This guide is only intended for use when you cannot get drivers onto the machine using a USB drive or an alternate means of Internet access, such as an installed Wi-Fi adapter.

  1. Close all other applications, as you will need to allow restarts as they are requested. If you regain connectivity after a restart, click here to go to step one on the guide above and proceed to clear the rest of the drivers in the driver store, as guided, and install the latest driver. This is very important as, otherwise, the "bad" driver will remain in the Windows driver store, and may cause issues in the future. 
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, find all entries with "Killer" in the title, and uninstall them. This includes "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" or any variations. If an installer requests a restart at any point, click to allow it to restart. 
  3. Once the machine has restarted, test to see if the issue is resolved. 
  4. If not, right-click Start, and click Device Manager.
  5. Find the Ethernet adapter under the Network Adapters heading, right click it, and click Uninstall Device. If you cannot find it, you may need to click View > Show hidden devices at the top of Device Manager. It may also be listed somewhere other than under Network Adapters.
  6. Click Uninstall.
  7. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device if it is present.
  8. Restart the computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Do not rely on the machine's power button as many modern computers have that button set to sleep, not power off. Once the machine has restarted, check to see if the issue is resolved. 
  9. If not, repeat steps 4 - 8 until you regain Internet connectivity. Once you do, remember to go to step one on the guide above and proceed to clear the rest of the drivers in the driver store, as guided, and install the latest driver. This is very important as, otherwise, the "bad" driver will remain in the Windows driver store, and may cause issues in the future. 

If you have any further issues or questions, feel free to reach out to support at

Slow Network Speeds


Slow Network Speeds

If you are experiencing slow Internet or network speeds, you can follow this troubleshooting guide to address and correct the most common problems. 

If you haven't already, please try installing the latest Killer Control Center from our website, and only from our website. It includes many fixes and improvements that are not be included in other packages. If you are still using the Killer Network Manager, you'll want to download the Killer Control Center, and then manually uninstall the Killer Network Manager, as well as the "Killer Drivers" entry in your programs list. You can find the latest Killer Control Center here: Please download and run this installer, which will also install the latest drivers. If you experience any problems installing the Killer Control Center, you can refer to this article for help - 

Once you have successfully updated your drivers, you will want to restart your computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. It is important to note that closing the lid or pressing the power button on many modern computers does not shut them down, but instead activates sleep mode. You must restart them by clicking Start > Power > Restart for them to restart.

If updating the drivers does not solve the issue, try resetting your networking equipment in this specific order, even if you have reset your some or all of your equipment previously. This order is proven to help your devices sync up properly, and will help to get a clean slate with further troubleshooting. Doing this can help even if only one device is experiencing problems. 

  1. Shut down your computer.
  2. Locate your modem and note the lights on your modem when it is normal and ready. There may be a "Ready" light.
  3. Unplug your modem, router, and any switches or hubs, between your computer and the modem, as well as any wireless boosters or access points, and leave them all unplugged for now.
  4. Plug in your modem.
  5. Wait until your modem's lights show normal operation again.
  6. Plug in your router, if you have one, and give it about five minutes to boot.
  7. Plug in anything else between your computer and the modem
  8. Power on your computer.
  9. Once your computer is booted and connected to the Internet, you will want to reset its network stack:
    1. In the search box on the taskbar, type Command prompt, right-click Command prompt, and then select Run as administrator > Yes.
    2. At the command prompt, run the following commands in the listed order, and then check to see if that fixes your connection problem:
      • Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter.
      • Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter.
      • Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
  10. Now reboot your machine once more and test to see if the issue is resolved.

If not, the next step is to make sure that your Windows installation is completely up to date. Microsoft has been updating Windows more often than with any previous release, so it's important to keep things up to date. To do this, simply search Windows Updates, hit Enter, and then click Check for Updates. If your machine finds updates, check again once it finishes installing. Once your machine finds no updates, restart again, and then check for updates once more. Once your machine finds no updates upon a fresh reboot, your Windows installation should be fully up to date.

If you have performed the above, and you are still experiencing issues with slow network speeds, there are some other things to try:

  • Set a benchmark. Place the device in one place, if dealing with Wi-Fi, and run a test using one speed test. Turn off all other network usage while troubleshooting. and are both good bandwidth tests. Run three tests in short succession and record an average as your starting point. Test after each change to see if there has been improvement. Record what you changed, and what the speeds the change produced. If the change seems dramatic, restart the machine and test again to be sure. 
  • Make sure your BIOS is up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure your chipset drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page.
  • Make sure all of the other drivers are up to date from your machine or mainboard manufacturer's support page. You can safely download and install all available driver packages. If the driver does not apply, it will either not install, or will not be used. If the only options in a driver installer package are "Repair" or "Uninstall", choosing "Repair" will update the driver, if there is a newer driver available.
  • Update the firmware on your router if you own the router.
  • Update the firmware on your modem if you own the modem, but only if your ISP accepts the firmware. Your ISP's support team can help you with this. Some ISPs also have this information listed somewhere, but they may need to do something on their end if you update the firmware, in order to re-authorize your modem. 
  • Have your ISP update the firmware on your modem or router if they own your modem or router.
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, minimize the number of solid objects between the access point's antenna and the device suffering from low speeds, using line-of-sight. Moving a device or antenna even an inch to one side could bypass multiple solid objects, making an enormous difference. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi, use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to make changes to your router's settings. 
    • 5 GHz routers should be set to channels 36-48, and/or 149-165 that are as far away from other channels as possible.
    • 2.4 GHz routers should be set to channels 1, 6, or 11, depending on which channels have the least powerful conflicting radios present.
    • Sideband, or side channel should be set to 20 MHz if there are many other Wi-Fi access points in your area, especially if you are forced to share a channel. Higher side channels are less powerful, but provide a wider band, allowing the signal to get around solid objects better, theoretically improving performance in situations where there are no interference concerns, but the Wi-Fi signal needs to "get around" solid objects. Many, however, report that, in real life testing, 20 MHz still provides the better signal, so your mileage may vary. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi and your router has both a 5 GHz radio and a 2.4 GHz radio, name them something different. Although it might seem simpler to name them the same thing, many routers do not handle this very well, and you can see performance issues by having them named the same thing. Many people opt to simply add "5" to the end of the 5 GHz radio. 
  • If you are using Wi-Fi extenders, name each of your extenders something different, so that you know which access point you are connected to. Wi-Fi extenders have limited radio capacity, and will, always provide at least slightly slower speeds than connecting directly to the router, as they have to use the same radio to receive and transmit, at the same time. 
  • If it seems like other machines using the same access point are having no issues, try to verify this. Borrow their machine and run a speed test. Ask for permission first, of course. If you are experiencing issues on a public access point, you might just find that the public access point is just terrible, and that no one else is having a problem because you're the only one playing latency-intensive first person shooters. 
  • If you are using a Wireless-N router in a crowded Wi-Fi environment, you are very likely to encounter drops and speed issues no matter what settings you change. Unfortunately, the 2.4 GHz spectrum is very limited on how many channels are available, and conflicts arise quickly. Updating to a Wireless-AC router may be required to increase your speeds and reduce wireless drops. 
  • If you are using an antivirus or firewall application, try completely uninstalling it for testing purposes. Unfortunately, simply disabling these programs do not work for troubleshooting purposes, as they often continue to manipulate network traffic. They must be fully uninstalled. If you notice that your speeds increase dramatically with the antivirus or firewall application uninstalled, try installing a freshly downloaded version from their website. If that doesn't help, then the issue may be one with the antivirus application itself. In that case, you will want to contact the support team for the antivirus application. 

If you are unable to get your speed issues sorted out using the above tips, feel free to contact us directly using the information below! 


How to Update or Install The Killer Control Center


Updating or Installing The Killer Control Center

You can find the latest Killer Control Center, as well as the latest drivers for your Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500, here -

The installer will automatically detect and install on any 64-bit version of Windows 7, 8.1, and Windows 10.

If you are using an older version of our suite, such as the Killer Network Manager, or you have not updated your network adapter drivers since your last Windows feature update (for example: Anniversary Update, Creator’s Update), then we suggest downloading the Killer Control Center, but uninstalling any application with the "Killer" name from your Apps and Features menu (accessible by right-clicking Start) and restarting your machine before installing the Killer Control Center.


How to Update or Install The Killer Network Manager


Updating or Installing The Killer Network Manager

The Killer Network Manager is our outgoing performance suite. It is no longer being updated, and does not contain the latest Ethernet or Wi-Fi drivers. We encourage all users of the Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500 to upgrade to the Killer Control Center, found here - This includes users whose machines came with the Killer Network Manager preinstalled. There is no need to continue using the Killer Network Manager. 

For a smooth installation, download the latest Killer Control Center installation package, then uninstall all Killer products from your Apps and Features menu, which is accessible by right-clicking Start, then restart your computer, and double-click the new installation package to install the new Killer Control Center.

The old Killer Network Manager suite is still available for download here - - but will no longer be updated, and may not be fully compatible with future Windows updates, antivirus suites, or other applications that manipulate network data. 

Issues When Installing Windows 7 Drivers


Users may encounter errors when installing drivers in Windows 7. This can be resolved by installing an update to Windows 7 that enables SHA-2 code signing in Windows 7, allowing the older operating system to use the newer device drivers. If allowed to fully update, Windows Update should install this update for you automatically. However, if you are unable to connect to the Internet, you may need to use a USB thumb drive, or some other media, to install this update on the machine on which you wish to install Windows 7. You can read more, and find the appropriate update for your situation here -

Windows Server Drivers


Windows Server Drivers

From time to time, we receive requests for Windows Server compatible drivers for our network adapters. Although we do not provide package installers for Windows Server editions, our drivers are Windows WHQL certified, and as such will work with recent Windows Server editions, so long as they are installed manually from the Device Manager using our .INF files.

You can download the .INF files from this location -

If you need assistance manually installing the .INF files using Device Manager, you can follow our guide here -

The Killer Control Center is not availalbe on Windows Server editions. 

The Killer E2500 in Linux (Ubuntu, Debian)


Installing The Killer E2500 in Linux (Ubuntu, Debian)

The Killer E2500 has been confirmed to work fully in recent Linux Kernels (4.8 or greater). You should not need to modfiy anything.

If you are running an older linux Kernel, or your distrubution is not already including the modified alx driver, you can get the E2500 working by modifying and loading the alx driver. These were the same changes that had been upstreamed in the past and should be in recent kernel version.

1. Make sure your complier enviroment is ready.

$ apt-get source linux-image-$(uname -r)

Alternative: If you do not have an alternative network connection, you can download the linux kernel source manually from Ubuntu's site:

Download and unpack it.

$ cd ~/linux-image-$(uname-r)
$ make oldconfig
$ make prepare
$ make scripts
$ apt-get install linux-headers-$(uname -r)

2. Prevent the message "no symbol version for module_layout" when loading the module with insmod or modprobe.

$ cd ~/linux-source
$ cp -v /usr/src/linux-headers-$(uname -r)/Module.symvers .

3. Make changes to main.c and reg.h files in ./drivers/net/ethernet/atheros/alx :

diff -uprN alx_orig/main.c alx/main.c
--- alx_orig/main.c
+++ alx/main.c
@@ -1537,6 +1537,7 @@ static const struct pci_device_id alx_pc
diff -uprN alx_orig/reg.h alx/reg.h
--- alx_orig/reg.h
+++ alx/reg.h
@@ -39,6 +39,7 @@
#define ALX_DEV_ID_AR8162 0x1090
#define ALX_DEV_ID_AR8171 0x10A1
#define ALX_DEV_ID_E2400 0xe0A1
+#define ALX_DEV_ID_E2500 0xE0B1
#define ALX_DEV_ID_AR8172 0x10A0
/* rev definition,

4. Build and install module

$ cd ~/alx
$ make -C /lib/modules/$(uname -r)/build M=$(pwd) modules
$ make -C /lib/modules/$(uname -r)/build M=$(pwd) modules_install
$ modprobe -r alx
$ depmod
$ modprobe -v alx

Installing Drivers From .INF Package Through Device Manager


Installing Drivers Using Device Manager

If you would like to install the Killer E2200, Killer E2400, Killer Wireless-N, or Killer Wireless-AC drivers without the Killer Performance Suite - you can do so using these steps. Note that this will disable all network prioritization features.

  1. Download the latest .INF package from this location -
  2. Extract the contens of the package to a location that you will remember.
  3. If you currently have the performance suite installed, you will want to uninstall it first by right-clicking Start, then clicking Apps and Features. Then uninstall all "Killer" labeled applications in this window, including anything labeled "suite" or "driver," and restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
  4. Once your computer is ready, right-click Start, and click Device Manager.
  5. Locate the Killer Network Adapter in your Device Manager. If it has a driver already installed by Windows, it will be located by its name under Network Adapters. If it has no driver installed, it will be named Ethernet Controller or Unknown Device, as in the screenshot below.
  6. Right-click the adapter, and click Update Driver Software... or Update Driver, whichever is available. 
  7. Click Browse my computer for driver software. 

  8. Click Let me pick from a list of available drivers on my computer
  9. Click Have disk
  10. Click Browse
  11. Navigate to the location where you extracted the standalone driver package earlier. 
  12. From there, you will only have one option, which will be a folder called Production. Double-click that folder.
  13. Double-click your operating system.
  14. Double-click your network adapter. (Eth for all Ethernet Adapters, 11AC for all Wireless-AC adapters, 11N for all Wireless-N adapters)
  15. There will be only one file. Double-click it. 
  16. Click OK
  17. Select your exact model from the list and click Next


The final screen should show that you have successfully installed the driver. You can now click on Close.


Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?


Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?

Users have asked if the E2500, E2400, and E2200 can be used wirelessly. These are Ethernet adapters, so they cannot be used wirelessly. They require an Ethernet cable to be connected to your machine, and to an Internet gateway, such as a modem or router.

Your machine may also come with a wireless adapter, which may or may not be a Killer Networking adapter. If the wireless adapter is not a Killer Networking adapter, the Killer Control Center will report "No Killer Network Interfaces Connected" when you are connected to the Internet with only the non-Killer adapter. This is normal, as the Killer Control Center can only be used with Killer Networking adapters. 

Do Killer Network Adapters Support Link Aggregation/NIC Teaming?


FAQ: Do Killer Network Adapters Support Link Aggregation/NIC Teaming?

Link Aggregation is not supported with any Windows consumer platform. In order to use Link Aggregation, you must be using an Enterprise grade router with this capability, and a Windows Server Operating System. However, the Killer Control Center is capable of using multiple Killer Network Adapters at one time with Doubleshot Pro and Doubleshot-X3 Pro which, for gaming, is even better than Link Aggregation, as the Killer Control Center can make use of Wi-Fi and Ethernet at the same time! You can read more about Killer Doubleshot Pro here - and Killer Doubleshot-X3 Pro here -


No Killer Enabled Devices On Linksys WRT32X


Users with Killer Network Adapters and the Linksys WRT32X may see "No Killer Enabled Devices" or "0 Killer Enabled Devices" on the user interface page of their WRT32X. 

The Killer optimization on the WRT32X is compatible with all Killer adapters that work with the Killer Control Center, which includes the:E2500, E2400, E2200, E2201, and all of our Wireless-N and Wireless-AC adapters. 

Please note that Windows 8.1 or 10 is required on the Killer enabled device for the router to label it as such in the router's interface. The router will still prioritize the Windows 7 Killer enabled device, but it will not appear that way in the router interface. 

You must also have a recent version of the Killer Control Center installed. You can find the latest version of the Killer Control Center here - If you run into any problems updating your performance suite, you can refer to our installation troubleshooting KB here -

After you have installed the latest Killer Control Center, if the router still fails to detect the Killer adapters, you may need to unplug the router for ten seconds, then plug it back in. If it still does not recognize the adapters. you may need to restart your computer once more by clicking Start > Power > Restart

If you still experience issues, it is recommended that you contact Linksys Support unless you are having other issues with your Killer adapter, in which case you should reach out to us through the contact form below. 


Ethernet Adapter No Longer In Device Manager


When a device goes missing from the Device Manager, it means that either the BIOS or the operating system is not enumerating the device for some reason. Check for another device in Device Manager that may be the Ethernet controller, but not labeled as such. It may be called "Unknown Device" or "Network Controller." If such a device exists, you can usually simply right-click on that device and click Update Driver and the problem will resolve itself from there.

If there is nothing at all indicating the existence of the Ethernet device, then the device may have been disbled in the BIOS. If you have recently made changes in the BIOS, then this would be worth checking. It's usually a fairly obvious setting, such as "Enable onboard LAN" that has been unchecked. If you have not changed anything in the BIOS, check to with your machine or mainboard manufacturer to make sure that you are using the most up to date version of the BIOS available. 

If you have ruled out the above, you may be able to uninstall and reinstall the drivers for the device by following these steps:

  1. Download the latest Killer Control Center installer from here - If you do not have another adapter on that machine, you may need to use a USB drive, or some other method of moving the file onto the machine.
  2. Right-click Start and click Apps and Features
  3. Find any "Killer" entry and uninstall it, including "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Performance Suite" or any variation.
  4. Restart the machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  5. Once the machine has booted back up, right-click start and click Device Manager
  6. Click View and click Show hidden devices
  7. Hopefully the missing adapter will show up, albeit grayed out. Right click on it, and click Uninstall Device.
  8. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device , if it exists, then click Uninstall.
  9. Click the light blue Scan for hardware changes icon at the top of Device Manager.
  10. If the adapter reppears, close the Device Manager and run the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. If it does not, restart the computer.

If the adapter still does not appear, then try updating all of the drivers available from your mainboard or machine manufacturer. The chipset driver is especially important. Uninstalling the most recent Windows Updates may also help, especially if the issue was first noticed after a Windows Update. Sometimes, uninstalling and reinstalling the Windows Update in question will result in a more successful outcome, with a working Ethernet adapter. 

If none of the above does the trick, you may need to perform a power drain on the machine in order to force it to re-enumerate the device. To do this, unplug the machine from the wall and then, if it is a laptop, remove the battery, if possible. If you cannot remove the battery, drain it through usage until the machine will no longer power on. If it is a desktop, you will need to remove the CMOS battery, which is a large button-style battery on the mainboard. Once there is no power to the machine, press and hold the power button for ten seconds, to complete the power drain. Then replace the battery, plug the machine back in, and power it on. The Ethernet device should now enumerate and, with the fixes that you put in place earlier, it should not vanish again.


What Is A "Killer Enabled Device?"


What Is A "Killer Enabled Device?"

A "Killer Enabled Device" is any computer that is connected to the Internet using a currently supported Killer Networking adapter. These adapters can be found installed in gaming laptops, desktops, and mainboards, manufactured by various well-known and respected names in the computer industry. If you are looking for a Killer Enabled Device, then you are looking for a machine, or motherboard, with one of these network adapters. Currently supported adapters include:

  • All Killer Wireless-N Wi-Fi adapters
  • All Killer Wireless-AC Wi-Fi adapters
  • Killer E2200, E2400, and E2500 Gigabit Ethernet Adapters

If you have such a device, and you are connected to a router, such as the WRT32X, and it is not recognizing your adapter as a Killer Enabled Device, then you may need to update your Killer Control Center. You can find the latest version of hte Killer Control Center here - If you have any issues updating your suite, you can find troubleshooting steps here -

Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.