No Killer Network Interfaces Connected


A few things can cause the Killer Control Center to report error. Following are the most common, and how to correct the issue:

  • You are connecting to the Internet using a network adapter other than a Killer product. Some machines ship with network adapters from multiple vendors. For example, your machine may have a Killer Ethernet adapter, but the wireless adapter may be from a different manufacturer, such as Intel. The Killer Control Center will not work with another brand's networking adapter. Be sure that you are connecting to the Internet using the Killer network adapter. Our performance suites only work connected to the Internet with our products.
  • You are using an older version of the Killer Control Center. Some recent versions of the Killer Control Center experienced issues identifying some adapters. This has been resolved in current versions of the suite. Updating to the latest suite should resolve the issue. Even if you have a new machine, the version of the software that was installed on it when it was boxed may now be out of date. You can find the latest Killer Control Center here -
  • You are not connected to the Internet. You will receive this error if you are not connected to the Internet using a Killer Networking adapter. Note that if you are connected to the Internet using a virtual adapter of any kind, even if that virtual adapter is attached to a Killer Networking adapter, the Killer Control Center will show this message as it cannot work with a virtual adapter. 
  • You recently installed or updated the Killer Control Center and have not rebooted your computer. Rebooting should resolve the issue. Please note that, to restart, you should click Start > Power > Restart, as simply closing the lid, or pressing the power button on many modern computers activates sleep mode, and does not actually power down the machine. 
  • You are using a virtual network adapter. The Killer Control Center can only work if you are connecting to the Internet using a Killer Networking Adapter. If you are connecting to the Internet using a virtual adapter, the Killer Control Center will not work, and will show this message instead. 

If you are seeing this message and none of the above applies, please reach out to support, using the link below. Please be sure to include a diagnostic with your support request. With the latest Killer Control Center installed, you can find Killer Diagnostics in your Windwos start menu, under Killer Networking. Please run the application, save the output file, and attach it to your support request.

Will the Killer 1550 Work In My Desktop Mainboard?


Some users have inquired whether the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is compatible with their desktop mainboards. 

Most desktop mainboard M.2 slots are keyed for storage, not for Wi-Fi. You will need to refer to the manufacturer of your specific mainboard, but unless there was a Wi-Fi adapter pre-installed in the mainboard, the M.2 slot is very likely keyed for storage. In such cases, no Wi-Fi adapter will work in that slot.

We have also received questions regarding using the Killer Wireless-AC 1550 in M.2 to PCI-E converters. Although these types of converters usually work well enough, we have noted that the 1550 does not work well through any of the converters that we have tried. Therefore, we do not recommend using the 1550 in any converter. 

For more frequently asked questions about the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, please see the full FAQ here -

How to Update or Install The Killer Control Center


Updating or Installing The Killer Control Center

You can find the latest Killer Control Center, as well as the latest drivers for your Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500, here -

The installer should automatically detect and install on any 64-bit version of Windows 7, 8.1, and Windows 10. It should also update from older versions of the software. However, if you are updating for the first time in a while, you may encounter an error, and will need to uninstall all "Killer" entries from your Apps and Features menu manully, restart, and then install the latest Killer Control Center.

Here is the step-by-step:

  1. Download the latest Killer Control Center installer if you don't have it handy -
  2. Uninstall any and all Killer Performance Suite and Killer Drivers entries in your Apps and Features menu. You can access this menu by right-clicking Start, then clicking Apps and Features. This will include uninstalling the Killer Network Manager.
  3. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
  4. Run the installer package for the Killer Control Center.
  5. Restart your machine once more at the end, even if not requested to do so.

If you are unable to install the latest version of the Killer Control Center by following these steps, please refer to this article for further troubleshooting -

Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps


Ethernet Link Speed Capped at 100 Mbps

You may find that your Ethernet speed is capped at 100 Mbps when your Internet Service Provider, or your internal network connection, should be providing speeds greater than 100 Mbps. If this is the case, you may be encountering a link speed issue. To check for this, check the link speed on the machine in question by following these steps:

  • Search Control Panel with Windows Search and press Enter
  • Click Network and Internet
  • Click View network status and tasks which will be underneath Network and Sharing Center
  • Click the connection that represents the Ethernet connection to your router or modem. You should see a screen that looks something like this.

link speed

Notice that the link "Speed" here reads as 100 Mbps. This means that the negotiated connection speed between the Ethernet adapter and whatever device it is plugged into is 100 Mbps. When everything is working correctly, this speed will read as 1.0 Gbps.

The only setting that is of concern for a Gigabit connection is that the adapter is set to Auto-Negotiate. From the Device Manager, you can check to see that the Killer adapter is set on Auto-Negotiate. This option is under the Advanced tab of the adapter's properties, in Speed & Duplex - right-click the adapter and choose properties, click the Advanced tab, and click Speed & Duplex, and make sure it is set to Auto-Negotiate. This is the default setting. We have had reports of some ISP technicians telling their customers that a Gigabit option will appear in this setting if the network adapter is working correctly. This is incorrect. Auto-Negotiate is the correct setting for Gigabit speeds in Speed & Duplex for Killer Networking Adapters.

If this is set correctly and your link speed still reads as 100 Mbps, then the issue could be a few things, although it is important to note up front that this is almost always an issue with an Ethernet cable. Even if you firmly believe that your Ethernet cabling is perfectly fine, and even if this cabling worked fine before, swapping it out for another, proven cable, or a brand new Cat 6 cable, will almost certainly solve the issue with the minimum of troubleshooting and headache. This is a very, very common occurrence when troubleshooting Gigabit Ethernet, and it nearly always comes down to one cable being the culprit. Note that this includes all cabling between the machine and the router, including any cabling in before and after any switches, or on the other side of any wall jacks, and behind the wall. However, if you were getting Gigabit using a particular setup and suddenly, with no changes whatsoever, your link speed is now 100 Mbps, then it's probably only one cable that is now having issues, and it is likely one that is exposed.

The fastest way to rule out any problems with anything other than cabling is to connect your machine directly into your modem with a single, proven Cat 6 or better Ethernet cable, and preferably into a proven Gigabit capable port, then check the link speed. If the link speed shows as 1.0 Gbps, then you know that the problem is somewhere in what you have just bypassed. Using this method of troubleshooting can be a pain if you are not dealing with a laptop, but it might still be worth doing if you have to decide if you need to call a contractor out to look at wiring behind your walls. Note that very long Ethernet cords are available for purchase, with lengths of over 200 feet or 60 meters, are available, so if you are involved in a prolonged debate with a technician over link speeds, this might be the simplest way to provide a temporary, single cable connection from your machine to the modem. 

That said, all adapters are different and handle shorts or issues with cables or ports differently, but a Gigabit adapter reporting as 100 Mbps is almost certainly a physical issue with the networking equipment.

You can troubleshoot this by trying different combinations:

  • If you cannot connect your machine to the modem with a single, proven Cat 6 cable, maybe you can connect a machine whose link speed currently shows as 1 Gbps to the Ethernet cable that is currently plugged into the problem machine. If this second machine now shows a link speed of 100 Mbps, this also proves that the issue is somewhere in the cabling or equipment between the machine and the access point, not with the machine itself. 
  • Power cycle (unplug and plug back in) your access point (hub, switch, router) and any other device between your machine and the access point.
  • Cat 6 is preferred to Cat 5e as, although the latter is technically capable of gigabit connections, it lacks any redundancies in grounding, which is an extremely common point of failure in network cables. Cat 6 remedies this issue, and making sure that all of your cabling is Cat 6 or better is usually a surefire way to achieve a gigabit connection. 
  • A "failed" Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable will usually still work at 100 Mbps. It doesn't take much physical trauma for a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps, and many of the cheaper ones don't support 1 Gbps out of the bag, even though they will be labeled as supported 1 Gbps connections. If you have only tried a Cat 5e cable, you owe it to yourself to try a Cat 6 cable. This is almost certainly the issue. If you are having issues achieving Gigabit speeds and you have Cat 5e cables in the mix then it is safe to assume that those specific Cat 5e cables are not Gigabit capable. This is common. Incidents such as rolling over the cable with an office chair, or stepping on it, or closing a door on it, can all cause a Cat 5e cable to revert to 100 Mbps link speeds when it was previously working at Gigabit speeds.
  • Try different ports on your access point (hub, switch, router). If possible, use a port that is proven capable of working at Gigabit speeds with another machine. 
  • If all of these fail, then likely the Ethernet connector on the mainboard has an issue and you would need to check with your PC manufacturer (or mainboard manufacturer, if you assembled the machine yourself) on what your warranty or RMA options are. You may want to perform a physical inspection on the Ethernet jack's pins to make sure that none of them are bent or otherwise damaged. It is worth stressing once more, though, that this issue is nearly always one with the cabling somewhere between the Ethernet jack on your machine, and the Ethernet jack for the modem.

Issues When Updating or Installing Killer Control Center


Issues When Updating or Installing Killer Control Center

Users may encounter errors when installing or updating the Killer Control Center. This guide should resolve most issues. 

This guide will walk the user through four steps, which should be followed in order:

  1. Uninstalling previous versions
  2. Using the Killer Remover to remove old versions of the Killer Performance Suites that may be stuck due to Windows Feature Updates and Upgrades
  3. Using the Microsoft Fixit tool for fixing problems that block programs from being installed or removed. 
  4. Submitting an installer log to support if you are unable to resolve the issue with the steps listed here.

If you encounter any problems, please select from the following options:



The Killer Control Center Cannot Automatically Update

 If the installer cannot automatically update, you might see an error, such as, but not limited to, this one:

Killer Performance Driver Suite Cannot Be Installed With

In this case, you will need to manually uninstall the previous versions. First, however, you will want to download the latest installer and have it handy. Once you have the installer ready to go, right-click Start, click Apps and Features, then find every entry that has "Killer" in it, including "Killer Drivers" and/or "Killer Performance Suite," or any variation, as well as the Killer Network Manager, and uninstall them. After they have uninstalled, restart your machine, then install the latest suite. If this doesn't solve the issue, please move on to the next section.


Previous Killer Applications or Drivers Cannot Be Uninstalled
There Are No Killer Applications or Drivers in The Apps and Features Menu But the Killer Control Center Will Not Install

If you encounter an issue where the old "Killer Suite" or "Killer Drivers" cannot be uninstalled, and they remain stuck in your Apps and Features menu, or they appear to be removed, but the latest Killer Control Center appears to attempt to install, then roll back. Even if you can no longer see the old applications in your Apps and Features menu, it is very likely that they are still there, and that they are the problem. For very old previous installs, especially those that may be broken by updates from Windows 7 to Windows 10, we have developed a tool that can remove the old installs. Here is a step-by-step guide on downloading and using the tool. Use this as your first step in troubleshooting a broken older install:

  1. Download the Killer Remover from here -
  2. If you have no "Killer" applications listed in your Apps and Features menu, skip to step 6. 
  3. Right-click Start and click Apps and Features.
  4. Attempt to uninstall all "Killer" suites and drivers in this menu. This includes all "Killer Performance Driver Suites" and all variations, including the Killer Network Manager. Even if they fail to uninstall, this is a necessary step.
  5. Close the Apps and Features menu.
  6. Double-click the Killer Remover and follow the prompts.
  7. Once it is finished, it will prompt you to restart your machine. Restart your machine, and check to see if the stuck item is removed from the Apps and Features menu.
  8. If the item is gone, try running the latest Killer Control Center Installer.
  9. If the application is still stuck in your Apps and Features menu, or there is no stuck application, but you are still unable to install the latest Killer Control Center, please continue to the next section.


The Application is Still Stuck or The Latest Package Still Cannot Install After I Have Run the Killer Remover

The Microsoft Installer is probably encountering an error from which it cannot recover. Sometimes, you will get an error, such as "The feature you are trying to use is on a network resource that is unavailable..." or some other seemingly unrelated error, or the installer may fail with no error given other than it could not complete. Luckily, Microsoft has a tool to fix this issue, and you can find our detailed, step-by-step guide on how to find and use Microsoft's tool for fixing problems that block programs from being installed or removed- Make sure you choose "Uninstalling" even if you are trying to ultimately install the latest suite, as the problem is that you need to remove the remaining parts of the old software, even if they do not appear in  your Apps and Features menu. 

If you still have issues with the Killer Control Center's installer, or uninstalling older versions of the suites, please contact support, and we will be happy to help. If the installer is failing, please run the installer one more time, and include the log that is generated in your temp folder. You can access your temp folder by pressing Windows Key + R, typing %TEMP%...


winkey r temp

...and pressing Enter.

From there, sort by Date, and attach the most recent MSI***.LOG to your support request. It should be dated at the time you last ran the installer.


You can reach support by clicking below. Please also include information on any troubleshooting that you have already done.

Where Can I Buy The 1550, Or Other Killer Adapters?


Where Can I Buy A Killer Networking Adapter?

The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 is currently available for sale here on Amazon.

This is an M.2 Wi-Fi solution, and is the only Killer Networking adapter that is officially for sale individually. It uses IPEX -MHF4 antenna receptacles, which are commonly found on M.2 Wi-Fi adapters. Physically, it is a direct swap for the Killer Wireless-AC 1435, 1525, and 1535, as well as numerous Intel adapters. However, before ordering and attempting to install, we suggest you verify the following:

  • Your machine's mainboard has an M.2 slot that is keyed for Wi-Fi. Please note that most desktop mainboard M.2 slots are keyed for storage, not Wi-Fi. 
  • Your machine does not have a BIOS whitelist for Wi-Fi adapters, which restricts which adapters you can use by hardware ID. This isn't common, but there are some machines that implement this. 
  • Your machine's mainboard is capable of powering a 160 MHz M.2 Wi-Fi adapter. The community may be your best resource for this information.
  • You are comfortable changing the Wi-Fi adapter on your machine.
  • Your machine uses IPEX-MHF4 antenna leads, or you have the antenna converter pigtails to change the connecting ends to IPEX-MHF4 antenna connectors. 

At this time, the adapter only ships to the United States. We are currently working toward shipping to the United Kingdom, but do not have a current timeframe. There are also other resellers that are also reselling the Killer Wireless-AC 1550, often to International buyers. 

Unfortunately, our current line of Ethernet adapters are currently only integrated into motherboards and laptops of various manufacturers and not sold as individual units. This is due to different regulatory and system calibration requirements. We apologize for the inconvenience.

You may find that our other wireless adapters do show up online for sale from time to time. These are not authorized for resale by us, or any authorized manufacturer, but are being sold as components removed from other machines. Be sure to keep that in mind when purchasing. We can only support adapters that are obtained in this fashion in a very limited capacity.

Also note that many laptop manufacturers use hardware IDs to lock out non-authorized Wi-Fi adapters, so swapping in another adapter may not be as simple as it seems. Be sure to check with your machine's technical support or documentation before buying a different adapter.


Killer Control Center Errors After Update


Killer Control Center Errors After Update

Some users may experience errors with the Killer Control Center after updating to the latest version. This usually occurs when updating without uninstalling the old version first. While this is normally not a problem, we have noted that some users are encountering problems where:

  • The Killer Control Center will not open
  • The Killer Control Center causes GDI Exception Errors
  • The Killer Control Center causes a "NavBar" error.
  • Some specific websites are not accessible, while most websites are accessible. 

The solution to these issues is to perform a clean install of the latest Killer Control Center by following these steps:

  1. Make sure you have a copy of the latest installer handy -
  2. If you are encountering the issue where some websites are not accessible while most websites are accessible, download the Killer Remover -
  3. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, and then find every "Killer" application listed, click, and click Uninstall. This includes any and all "Killer Performance Driver Suite" and any variation. Make sure you are also uninstalling the Killer Network Manager, as the Killer Network Manager is not meant to be run with the Killer Control Center. The Killer Control Center replaces the Killer Network Manager.
  4. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  5. If you downloaded the Killer Remover in Step 2, run it now. It will have you restart again once it is finished running.
  6. Once your machine has booted back up, access the temp directory by clicking Start and typing %temp% and pressing Enter.
  7. Delete the contents of this folder. These are temporary files that are meant to be deleted from time to time - you cannot harm anything by deleting all of these files. You may not be able to delete some of these files. It is okay to "Skip All" for these files.
  8. Double-click the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. and follow the prompts to complete install.
  9. Test to see if the issue is resolved.

If you continue to experiencing issues, please contact us at

Internet Problems With New Computers


Internet Problems With New Computers

This article only applies to brand new computers using Windows 10.

Some users may experience issues with brand new computers with Killer Network adapters and the Killer Control Center or Killer Network Manager preinstalled. 

These issues are often caused by Windows automatically updating to the latest version of the operating system without giving the user the chance to update any preinstalled software or device drivers. This results in software, which was likely up to date at the time the machine was boxed by the manufacturer, running on a version of the operating system on which it was never tested, and may not be able to operate on correctly.

If the user notices that, after Windows has updated, their Internet performance is severely degraded, or they see bluescreen errors that are attributed to our software or drivers, they should uninstall the Killer Control Center or Killer Network Manager, make sure Windows is fully updated, and then install the latest version of the Killer Control Center

Here is the step-by-step:

  1. Right-click Start
  2. Click Apps and Features
  3. Find "Killer Performance Driver Suite" or any variation or variations, and uninstall it or them, restarting when required. 
  4. If a restart was not requested, restart your machine now by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Avoid using the power button on your computer, as it is likely mapped to sleep the machine, which will not work for this purpose.
  5. Windows 10 will install a basic set of drivers. This does not include any of the latency reducing and bandwidth prioritizing features of your Killer networking adapter, but it will serve to let you update everything. The only exceptions are the Killer Wireless-AC 1535 and the Killer Wireless-AC 1550.
    1. There may not be a built-in driver in Windows 10 for the 1535 if the machine is still on the original release build of Windows 10 when the user uninstalls the Killer Control Center. This is unlikely, as you will likely not have access to uninstall anything before Windows has updated itself well beyond this point. 
    2. The Killer Wireless-AC 1550 was released in 2018 and, as such, no version of Windows 10 previous to this time will have built-in drivers. 
  6. Make sure your BIOS and chipset drivers, at least, are up to date from your machine manufacturer's support site. 
  7. Make sure Windows 10 is fully up to date. To do this:
    1. Click Start
    2. Type Windows Update and press Enter
    3. Click Check for Updates
    4. Let your computer install whatever updates it finds. 
    5. Once it is finished, restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart, even if it has not asked you to do so.
    6. Repeat steps A through E until your machine finds no updates just after restarting.
  8. Download the latest Killer Control Center package, which also contains the latest drivers for your Killer network adapters - - and double-click to install. 
  9. If you notice any issues with your Bluetooth, and you have a Killer Wireless adapter (Killer 1435, 1535, 1525, 1550) download and install the latest Bluetooth driver from our website -
  10. If your wireless access point (router or modem) seems to struggle with a new Killer Wireless adapter, either slowing down, restarting, or freezing, please first try unplugging the access point and plugging it back in. If that does not resolve the issue, the device likely needs a firmware update. For a wireless router that you own, please see the support for our specific device. For a wireless modem that is owned by your ISP, please contact your ISP and request that they update the firmware on your modem. 
  11. If you have a wireless router that continues to reset when the 1535 connects to it, even after you have updated the firmware, please see this article -

If you encounter any further issues with your Killer adapters, please do not hesitate to contact us directly!


Fall Creator's Update Breaks Network Adapter


Some users have experienced issues with their network adapters directly after the Windows 10 Fall Creator's Update. The errors vary, but most point to a hardware failure of some kind. We have received reports of "Network Cable Unplugged" and "Device Cannot Start," even though the adapters were working normally before the update. Unfortunately, in some cases, the only solution seems to be to uninstall and reinstall the Windows 10 Fall Creator's Update. However, one thing you can try is uninstalling all drivers for the device from the Windows driver store, then restarting the machine, and installing the latest drivers. Here are the steps: 

  1. Make sure you have the latest Killer Control Center installer handy on the machine (you may need to use a USB thumb drive or some other medium if you can't access the Internet with the machine). 
  2. Right-click Start, click Apps and Features, find all entries with "Killer" in the title, and uninstall them. This includes "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" or any variations. You can hold off on restarting for now if an uninstaller says to do so.
    1. If you encounter any issues with uninstalling, such as the uninstaller hanging (give it at least ten minutes), or giving an error message, cancel the uninstallation, then right-click the taskbar and click Task Manager.
    2. Make sure the Processes tab is selected.
    3. Click Name at the top of the "Name" column to sort by name.
    4. Scroll down and find any "Killer" process under "Apps" and "Background Processes", click it, and click the End Task button.
    5. Click the Services tab. 
    6. Click Name to sort by name.
    7. Scroll down and find the "Killer Network Service". Right-click it and click Stop. 
    8. Close the Task Manager window and return to the Apps and Features menu, and continue uninstalling all "Killer Drivers" or "Killer Suite" entries.
  3. Close Apps and Features and right-click Start and click Device Manager
  4. Find the Ethernet adapter under the Network Adapters heading, right click it, and click Uninstall Device. If you cannot find it, you may need to click View > Show hidden devices at the top of Device Manager. It may also be listed somewhere other than under Network Adapters.
  5. Check the box for Delete the driver software for this device if it is present.
  6. Click Uninstall.
  7. Click the light blue Scan for hardware changes icon at the top of Device Manager. The adapter will probably reappear, and may or may not still show a Code 10, but I would suggest continuing with this guide either way.
  8. Repeat steps 4-7 until you no longer have the option to Delete the driver software for this device. Note that you could keep doing this indefinitely, as Windows will always install a default driver, but once you can no longer Delete the driver software for this device, you have accomplished the goal of clearing out all of the drivers that we were trying to clear out, and so you're done by that point.
  9. Restart the computer by clicking Start > Power > Restart. Do not rely on the machine's power button as many modern computers have that button set to sleep, not power off. 
  10. Once the machine has restarted, run the installer for the latest Killer Control Center. If everything doesn't look perfect, restart the machine after the installation, even if the installer did not say to do so. 

If that doesn't solve the issue, you can try uninstalling the Fall Creator's Update. Here are the steps to do that:

  1. Click ​Start
  2. Type ​Windows Update ​and click ​Windows Update Settings.
  3. Click ​Recovery​ on the left. 
  4. Under "Go back to the previous version of Windows 10" click ​the ​Get Started​ button, and follow the prompts from there to revert to the previous version of Windows 10.

Once you have reverted to the previous version of Windows 10, make sure you hae updated to the latest version of your network adapter drivers. You can download the latest Killer Control Center, with the latest drivers, from here -

Windows will invariably reinstall the update at some point. You can either wait for it to update on its own, or you can search Windows Update, then click Check for Updates, and it will likely download and install the Fall Creator's Update again, hopefully without the same issue, as you will now have the latest drivers for your network adapter. 

Wi-Fi or Bluetooth Missing


Bluetooth or Wi-Fi Missing

Note: This guide can be used in the event of any M.2 device vanishing from the Device Manager. The procedure lists Killer devices specifically, but the phenomenon is widespread among M.2 devices and Windows 10, and these same steps can be used to restore functionality when any M.2 device disappears from Device Manager.

When this occurs, it is an issue of the BIOS or the operating system not enumerating the device properly. In very rare situations, it can be cause by some kind of physical trauma causing the device to become dislodged, or the device failing, but more often than not, the hardware is just fine. It’s just a matter of getting Windows or, sometimes, the BIOS, to see it again. Sometimes the device will be missing altogether, or sometimes it will be grayed out - the difference is only in whether your Device Manager is set to show devices that are no longer present in the machine. Either way, the Device Manager thinks that the device is gone, and that is what needs to be addressed.

  • First off, make sure that you do not have any USB devices disabled. The internal Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapter is actually USB device, so if there are any USB devices disabled in your Device Manager, for any reason, this can cause the Bluetooth device to vanish. If you are unable to enable the USB device, then you should resolve that issue first. This includes USB Hub devices, or any devices under the Universal Serial Bus controllers category in Device Manager that show any errors, for any reason. On some platforms, this is the #1 cause of Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adapters mysteriously vanishing from the Device Manager. Once you have resolved the USB issue, restart your machine, and check to see if the missing device has reappeared in your Device Manager. If you have recently plugged anything new into a USB port on your machine, unplug it and see if the error goes away in Device Manager. That USB device may be malfunctioning.  If there is nothing to remove, try these steps:
    • Right-click on the entry and click Enable, if applicable. If the only option is Disable, then the entry was already enabled.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Update Driver > Search Automatically for Updated Driver.
    • Right-click on the entry with the error and click Uninstall Device > Uninstall, and then restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart.
    • Visit your machine or mainboard's support page and update your BIOS, chipset drivers, and USB drivers (if listed). 
    • Discharging the machine can also be helpful in clearing USB error codes. 

Once you no longer have any disabled USB devices, the Bluetooth device should show back up. 

USB Error

  • If you do not have any disabled USB devices, or any with errors, or if you have resolved that issue and the Wi-Fi or Bluetooth adapter has not reappeared in the Device Manager, then you will still need to update your chipset drivers, and possibly your machine or mainboard’s BIOS, if you haven't already. We have noted that some platforms have chipset drivers that are buggy enough that they absolutely will experience this issue if their chipset drivers are not updated. You will need to obtain these drivers from your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support download page. You can usually find this page by going to the main website for your machine or mainboard manufacturer and looking under "Support", or by using your preferred search engine to search for your specific model, then selecting the result that leads to your machine or mainboard manufacturer's website. Once you have found the support downloads page, if you cannot tell which drivers are the chipset drivers, it is generally recommended that you simply update all of the offered drivers, except for the Killer Network card drivers, which you should get from us, as they are likely more recent. If there is a BIOS update available, then updating the BIOS is also recommended, especially if the BIOS update notes mention anything that might pertain to this situation. Make certain that you at least update the chipset and USB drivers, if applicable. Some platforms combine the USB drivers into the chipset drivers, so you may not see a separate download. Once you have done these updates, restart the machine, and see if the missing device reappears in the Device Manager.
  • Depending on what is available, the best order in which to update is as follows:
    1. Update your BIOS from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    2. Update your chipset drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page. 
    3. Update the USB drivers from your machine or mainboard's support page.  If none are listed, they are probably rolled into the chipset driver. 
    4. Update all other drivers available from your machine or mainboard's support page, except Killer Networking and Bluetooth drivers, which you should get from us.
    5. Restart your machine by clicking Start > Power > Restart
  • Windows itself can also play a part in the disappearing device. The Anniversary Update saw many such devices vanish, so much so that the Creator’s Update added a Bluetooth troubleshooter to Windows 10. Make sure that your Windows installation is up to date by using Windows Search to search Windows Update

    windows update

    then press Enter, and click Check for Updates

  • Once it has downloaded and installed everything it finds, restart the machine, and repeat this process until Windows Update finds no updates directly after restarting. Once this happens, check to see if the device has reappeared in the Device Manager. If this doesn’t help, and the issue is Bluetooth related, you can try troubleshooting using Windows built-in troubleshooter. Microsoft has instructions here -
  • Discharging the machine - If the device is still missing from the Device Manager, then that means that it isn’t the chipset drivers (or at least it isn’t only the chipset drivers) that is not properly enumerating the device, but rather the BIOS itself. In this case, you will need to discharge the machine to force the BIOS to re-enumerate all of its hardware (instructions below). Before you do this, make sure that you have updated the BIOS to the latest version, from the mainboard or machine manufacturer’s website, so that you address the flaw that caused this issue in the first place. Once that BIOS update is in place, and you have confirmed that the machine has booted back up, but the device is still not appearing in Device Manager, shut the machine back down, and unplug it from the wall. You will now need to fully discharge the machine.
    • If this is a desktop, you will need to remove the side panel, discharge yourself of static electricity on something metal (your computer’s case might work, or possibly your desk) and look for the CMOS battery. It is a large coin-cell battery. Remove that battery. Sometimes it’s easier with a flathead screwdriver, but it should be fairly simple to remove. Once you have removed that battery, press the power button on the machine 2-3 times to completely discharge it, then replace the CMOS battery and the case. If you are not comfortable doing this on your own, please refer to your mainboard or machine's support. 
    • If this is a laptop, hopefully it is one where you can easily remove the battery. This will be specific to your model of laptop, so you may need to refer to your owner’s manual, or your laptop’s support website. Some MSI models are held in with a single screw. If you are able to remove the laptop battery, do so, and then press the laptop’s power button a few times to fully discharge it.
    • If this is a laptop, but you are unable to remove the battery, or would prefer not to, you can discharge the machine through usage, instead. Unplug the laptop from the electric outlet, and temporarily change the power plan to a setting that does not allow it to sleep when the battery is low, then run the laptop until it discharges itself and will no longer power on. Once it has discharged itself, press the power button a few times to make sure it is fully discharged.
    • Once you have a fully discharged machine, put it back together, plug it back in, and let it boot in to Windows. You may see a message mentioning setting the BIOS to defaults, or something along those lines. This is nothing to be alarmed about – simply confirm that you want it set to defaults, unless you had set custom settings, in which case, you will need to re-set those custom settings. In the future, this message may be a warning that your CMOS or laptop battery is dead or on its last legs, but for now, we know that you discharged the machine on purpose, so we can safely ignore this warning. Once you are booted back in to Windows, check the Device Manager to make sure that the missing Wi-Fi or Bluetooth device is no longer missing.
  • In some very rare cases, the device may not show up because the machine was not fully discharged. We have had users report that they were able to repeat the steps to discharge their machines a second time, and have had success after that. Once the updates were in place, and the devices shows up, that is usually the end of the problem.

One final step that you can take, if you are willing and able to do so, is to physically reseat your Wi-Fi adapter. The Wi-Fi and Bluetooth device are on the same card, so there is only one adapter to reseat, and reseating this adapter only requires that you remove one screw, slide it out of the slot, then slide it back in and screw it back down, being careful not to dislodge or damage the attached antenna leads. However, the difficulty in getting to this adapter and performing this step will vary depending on your machine or mainboard, and your level of expertise. You may wish to consult with your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support at this point. If you have followed all of the other steps, and the device still has not reappeared, the device, or the mainboard, may also be physically damaged, and in need of repair, which would also necessitate contacting your mainboard or machine manufacturer’s support for RMA or repair options.  

Wi-Fi Drops and Slow Speeds

Wi-Fi drops and slow speeds can be caused by a variety of factors - some of them environment, and some stemming from the computer itself. The first thing a user should do is download and install the latest drivers available for the wireless adapters. The latest Killer Control Center, which has replaced the Killer Network Adapter, and contains the drivers for all of the Killer Wireless-AC and Wireless-N adapters, can be found here - you are experiencing problems, it is recommended that you uninstall all "Killer Performance Suite" and "Killer Drivers" entries, then restart your machine before installing the latest suite. If you encounter any errors when installing or updating the Killer Control Center, please see this article. 
If updating the drivers does not solve the problem, then there may be some other issue. Unfortunately, Wi-Fi drops and performance problems are all too common with Windows, and Microsoft has addressed the issue, essentially placing the blame on the wireless access points. You can read about that here - - but, to summarize, the default power plan is not ideal for Wi-Fi, and Microsoft's suggestion is to maximize power going to the Wi-Fi adapter and remove the ability for Windows to turn the adapter off to save power.
Doing this can potentially cause slightly shorter battery life. However, this is a good way to troubleshoot whether the issue is related to the power saving features of your machine and/or access point. You may find that making thes changes makes no noticeable change in your machine's battery life. On the other hand, you may find that there is a noticeable effect, in which case you can simply switch the power profile back. 
  1. To check your power settings: 
  2. Right click Start
  3. Click “Power Options”
  4. Click "Additional Power Options" on the right.
  5. Click “Change Plan Options” on currently selected power plan
  6. Click “Change Advanced Power Settings."
  7. Click “Wireless Adapter Settings”
  8. Under “Power Saving Mode” change “Setting” to “Maximum Performance” on both “On battery” and “Plugged in"
  9. Click "Okay" then "Save Changes".
  10. Close all Power Options windows
  11. Right-click your Start Button and click "Device Manager"
  12. Find the "Network Adapters" heading and double-click it.
  13. Find your Killer Wireless Adapter and double-click it.
  14. Click the "Power Management" tab.
  15. Make sure the box for "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power" is not checked.
  16. Click "OK"
  17. If you are missing any of these options, then that means your machine's manufacturer has disabled them in the registry. Many of our users have had luck using the method described here. Please note that the registry changes made in these guides make no permanent changes to your system other than to make the settings available for you to change. The registry files do not actually make the changes - they only add back the setting options that are present in normal Windows 10 installs, but have been removed in some..

If you do find that setting the Wi-Fi adapter to maximum power on battery solves your issue, but you are unsatisfied with the resulting battery life, then you should update all potential components of the power saving features of your Wi-Fi, including:

  • Your machine's BIOS from the machine or mainboad's manufacturer
  • Your machine's chipset drivers from the machine or mainboard's manufacturer
  • Any other drivers from the machine or mainboard manufacturer that may be involved with power saving technologies
  • Your operating system (Windows 10 contains power saving technology that earlier operating systems did not have, which may prove more or less problematic with any particular wireless router when the power profile is set to anything but Maximum Performance)
  • The firmware on your Wi-Fi access point. If the device is a Wi-Fi modem that is owned by your ISP (Internet Service Provider), you will need to contact them to have the firmware updated. This should be a routine call for them, and ISPs often do not update firmware on their modems unless requested by their customers so, if you are experiencing problems, then the firmware on the modem could be quite old. 

You should also investigate your wireless landscape. Many Wi-Fi drops and connection issues are due to radio conflicts. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi Analyzer to determine which channels are least used on each band (2.4 GHz and 5 GHz) and change your Wi-Fi router's settings accordingly. Here are some tips on which settings to choose:

  • On the 2.4 GHz band, always choose Channels 1, 11, or 6. Try to pick the emptiest of the three, using the Wi-Fi Analyzer as your guide. Channels other than 1, 11, or 6 will receive more interference. European users can also use Channels 12 and 13 on the 2.4 GHz band. If you are in Europe, and your Killer Wireless device cannot see networks on Channels 12 and 13, please see this guide -
  • On the 5 GHz band, choose a channel that is as far away from other channels as possible. If you are experiencing Wi-Fi drops and you are using a DFS channel, (Channels 50-144 in the USA, other areas can be found on this chart), try changing to another 5 GHz channel and see if that improves the issue. 
  • If you do have to share a channel, or if there are competing networks close to yours, set your sideband or side channel (the name of the setting will depend on your router manufacturer) to 20 MHz. This creates a tight, more powerful signal. Higher sidebands should only be considered if you have no Wi-Fi radio competition, but need the signal to get around solid objects. 
  • If you have extenders, access points, or any other wireless routers, make sure they are operating on a different channel than your primary router. Even a single Wi-Fi router with multiple radios can conflict with itself if those radios are set to the same channel. 
  • Do not depend on "auto" settings if you are experiencing problems. They are not always reliable, and will often switch to less desirable configurations.
  • Consider that Wi-Fi is a line-of-sight radio technology. Each solid between the antenna of your wireless access point (router/modem) and your computer will diminish the signal. Repositioning things by inches can make a world of difference. 

Problems With The Killer Network Manager


The Killer Network Manager is our outgoing performance suite. It is no longer being updated, and does not contain the latest Ethernet or Wi-Fi drivers. We encourage all users of the Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500 to upgrade to the Killer Control Center, found here - This includes users whose machines came with the Killer Network Manager preinstalled. There is no need to continue using the Killer Network Manager.

For a smooth installation, download the latest Killer Control Center installation package, then uninstall all Killer products from your Apps and Features menu, which is accessible by right-clicking Start, then restart your computer, and double-click the new installation package to install the new Killer Control Center.

The old Killer Network Manager suite is still available for download here - - but will no longer be updated, and may not be fully compatible with future Windows updates, antivirus suites, or other applications that manipulate network data.

How to Update or Install The Killer Network Manager


Updating or Installing The Killer Network Manager

The Killer Network Manager is our outgoing performance suite. It is no longer being updated, and does not contain the latest Ethernet or Wi-Fi drivers. We encourage all users of the Killer Wireless-AC 1525/1535/1435, Killer Wireless-N 1202/1103, Killer E2200, Killer E2400, and Killer E2500 to upgrade to the Killer Control Center, found here - This includes users whose machines came with the Killer Network Manager preinstalled. There is no need to continue using the Killer Network Manager. 

For a smooth installation, download the latest Killer Control Center installation package, then uninstall all Killer products from your Apps and Features menu, which is accessible by right-clicking Start, then restart your computer, and double-click the new installation package to install the new Killer Control Center.

If you have any further issues installing the Killer Control Center, or uninstalling the Killer Network Manager, please see this troubleshooting article -

The old Killer Network Manager suite is still available for download here - - but will no longer be updated, and may not be fully compatible with future Windows updates, antivirus suites, or other applications that manipulate network data. 

How Do I Avoid Breaking Antenna Cables When Changing M.2 Adapters?


How Do I Avoid Breaking Antenna Cables When Changing M.2 Adapters?

Please note that any time you choose to change your Wi-Fi module, or any of your machine's hardware, you do so at your own risk and liability. 

M.2 WiFi modules and their connectors continue to get smaller as system providers continue to make thinner notebooks. This makes it much more difficult to disconnect the antenna lead from the module by hand when changing M.2 adapters. In order to properly disconnect the antenna from the module, all wireless module makers now recommend using a specially designed tool. For the Killer Wireless AC modules, we recommend using an IPEX MHF4L 90609-0001. This will greatly reduce the chance of damage to the wireless module connector or to the antenna connector.

If you are unable to obtain such a tool, be sure you pull the antenna leads straight up off of the connectors, to avoid breaking the connectors off of the card. Using a jeweler's or eyeglass repair screwdriver to very gently pull upward on the connector from beneath is best. When attaching antenna leads without a tool, try placing the adapter on a flat surface, lining the leads up on the receptacles, and then pressing down firmly, but gently, with a flat object, so that even pressure is applied. You should hear or feel a click when the the connector goes into place. Very little pressure is required so, if you find yourself pushing hard, you may be damaging the antenna connectors!

If you have further questions, please email us at

Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?


Can the E2500/E2400/E2200 Be Used Wirelessly?

Users have asked if the E2500, E2400, and E2200 can be used wirelessly. These are Ethernet adapters, so they cannot be used wirelessly. They require an Ethernet cable to be connected to your machine, and to an Internet gateway, such as a modem or router.

Your machine may also come with a wireless adapter, which may or may not be a Killer Networking adapter. If the wireless adapter is not a Killer Networking adapter, the Killer Control Center will report "No Killer Network Interfaces Connected" when you are connected to the Internet with only the non-Killer adapter. This is normal, as the Killer Control Center can only be used with Killer Networking adapters. 

Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues


Verizon FIOS 5 GHz Issues

Users may encounter a situation where their Killer Wireless-AC adapter will not connect to their FIOS router on the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band. 

This seems to be due to the FIOS routers automatically choosing specific DFS channels that they may not fully support. There are a multitude of reports about this phenomenon around the web - where certain devices can connect to them while others cannot - but this post explains it fairly well -

Fortunately, the fix is simple:

  1. Log in to your FIOS router's setup page. This page explains how to do so with some FIOS routers. It may not include all models. You may have to seek assistance from your ISP.
  2. Change your router's 5 GHz channel. You can use the Killer Control Center's Wi-Fi analyzer to find which channel has the least traffic, but changing to any channel that is not a DFS channel should allow your devices to connect. Channels 36-48 and 149-165 are non-DFS channels in the United States. Your area may vary. You can reference this chart to find out which channels are DFS channels, and which are not, in your area of the world - -
  3. Restart your machine, if necessary, and see if the issue is resolved. 




Some users may encounter a DNS_PROBE_FINISHED_NO_INTERNET error when browsing. This seems to happen most often with Google Chrome, but users have reported the error with other browsers, as well. This error is generally not related to or caused by your Killer Networking drivers, or the Killer Control Center. However, using very outdated drivers could potentially cause this problem, so updating to the latest drivers is a good idea. Following are some troubleshooting steps to resolve this issue:

  • Update to the latest Killer Control Center (click me for a guide).
  • Restart your network devices and network stack (click me for a guide). The vast majority of users with this issue report that this resolves the problem for them. 
  • Make sure your browsers are not trying to use a proxy. The following settings affect Chrome, and some other browsers in Windows. 
    • Click Start
    • Type Internet Options and press Enter
    • Click the Connections tab
    • Click LAN Settings
    • Unless you are using a proxy (if you don't know, you probably aren't), none of these boxes should be checked, not even Automatically detect settings. Uncheck them all.
    • Click OK, then OK on the previous window, then test to see if the problem is solved.
  • Scan your system for Malware. Malwarebytes is a good, free anti-Malware tool that may find things that the built-in Windows Defender did not catch. 
  • If you are using an antivirus application other than Windows Defender, some have noted that this issue was caused by antivirus applications. Try completely uninstalling the antivirus application to see if that resolves the issue. Many times, even if this does resolve the issue, you can restart your computer and reinstall the antivirus application, and the issue will not return. Unfortunately, disabling these applications will not do the same thing, as they will continue to manipulate network traffic when disabled. They must be uninstalled. 
  • Completely uninstall and reinstall your network drivers, deleting the drivers stored in your driver cache and the files in your temp folder (click me for a guide). 
  • Clear the cache for your browser(s). Please note that this will delete some saved logins if those logins are not saved by the browser's login saving feature, and are instead just "remembered." You will need to refer to your browser for further details, if you are unsure.
  • Specify your DNS servers. This shouldn't be necessary, but some users have reported that doing so has solved this issue. To do this:
    • Right-click Start
    • Click Network Connections
    • Click Chance Adapter Options
    • Right-click the adapter that you are using for Internet and click Properties
    • Double-click Internet Protocol Version 4
    • Click the button for Use the following DNS server addresses, which should open up the number fields below. In them, type the addresses for Google's free DNS servers:
    • Click OK and then click OK again, then close the rest of the open windows and test. 

If you know of another solution to this issue, aside from resetting Windows, please send us an email and let us know at!

Resetting Network Devices and Network Stack


Resetting Network Devices and Network Stack

Resetting your network devices and network stack, as well as updating your drivers, should be the first line of troubleshooting anytime you encounter a networking issue. Some people know this. However, many people are unaware that there is a proper order to resetting your networking devices, in order for them to synchonize quickly. Following is the fastest and easiest way to resolve most network problems, including, but not limited to Wi-Fi and Ethernet disconnects, slowdowns, and errors, even if these issues are affecting only one computer on your network. To reset your devices in the correct order:

  1. Shut down your computer by clicking Start > Power > Shut Down. Please note that using the power button on your machine is probably set to sleep the machine, not to shut it down. For troubleshooting purposes, the machine must be shut down.
  2. Locate your modem and note the lights on your modem when it is normal and ready. There may be a "Ready" or "Online" light. Taking a picture with a phone is a good tactic, so that you know when it's ready to go.
  3. Trace the Ethernet cord (not the screw-in coaxial cable or the power cord, but the one with a clip) to the next device to determine if you have a router.
  4. Unplug the power cord (either from the back of the device or from the wall, whichever is easier) from your modem, router, and any switches or hubs, between your computer and the modem, as well as any wireless boosters or access points, and leave them all unplugged for now.
  5. Plug in your modem.
  6. Wait until your modem's lights show normal operation again.
  7. Plug in your router, if you have one, and give it about five minutes to boot. Routers typically have no external means of telling if they are ready, but they should be ready after a five minute wait.
  8. Plug in anything else between your computer and the modem.
  9. Power on your computer.
  10. Once your computer is booted back up, if it is not connected to the Internet, or is still having issues, you will want to reset its network stack.
Resetting The Network Stack
  1. In the search box on the taskbar (click Start), type command prompt, right-click the command prompt result, and then select Run as administrator and confirm.
  2. At the command prompt (decline restarting your machine until you have entered the final command):
    1. Type ipconfig /release and press Enter.
    2. Type ipconfig /flushdns and press Enter.
    3. Type ipconfig /renew and press Enter. (this will stall for a moment)
    4. Type netsh int ip reset and press Enter. (don't restart yet)
    5. Type netsh winsock reset and press Enter.
  3. Now restart your machine using Start > Power > Restart once more and test to see if the issue is resolved.


Have a question about your Killer product that isn't answered in our Knowledge Base?  Contact Us.